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Just bought one...cheap.


Bubba5000

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Thanks for the community, folks. I’m Grateful that things like this exist. Anyways...

Found myself bike-less, because reasons, but suddenly I had the opportunity to buy this canary yellow 2000 VFR. I got it for 2K, smooth. 25k miles on the clock and it looks minty fresh. I just put a plate on it today, rode it around, and I’m going to have to look into the battery/charging situation, (I have already read about “the drill”), and I’m still getting a feel for how to ride it.

This is my first sporty-bike. I have always ridden big tourers and cruisers, and my most recent bike was a 2016 Road Glide that I hated more than I loved.

The good news is, it runs really great, goes like a scalded dog, and is easily the fastest bike I have ever owned. 

19F434E4-F1A2-4623-B1F3-6A08D7E7B13F.jpeg

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Nice score, a lot like the deal I made on my '98. I think these bikes are still very under-valued (in the North Eastern US at least) and there are some great deals to be had if you are lucky, patient or both. Your bike looks pretty stock aside from the windscreen and end can (arguably a good thing). 

 

Did this bike come with a documented maintenance history? If not, and given that your new ride is 19yrs old, I think you are on the right track with 'the drill' and I'd also suggest a thorough assessment and refresh of the fuel system, brakes & fluid, clutch & fluid, cooling system & hoses and also replace the plugs for good measure. I have found that more owners are reactive rather than proactive, and that ends up leading to a lot of "deferred" maintenance to put it nicely. There are a lot of threads documenting all the work you might do and this board (and VFRWorld for that matter) is both friendly and supportive. Good luck and happy riding!

 

The Drill: https://vfrworld.com/threads/how-to-fix-common-regulator-stator-failures.39277/

 

GiD's refurb thread: https://vfrworld.com/threads/refurbishing-my-99-5th-gen.52488/

 

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Good suggestion, adkfinn. I was just thinking today about doing a general principle oil change and brake bleed. Looks like my initial issue was just getting the battery to come back to life. It was only a year old but very disused. I’m still going to do a system test on it, because now I’m paranoid. You have a long list of suggestions, all very valid. I’ll have to go one or two at a time. So far, I only have exp. working on pre-90’s Yamaha stuff, like XS1100s. Looks like there are enough resources here and around to get me through, though.

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I have the same model, same year. Bought with 38000km on it now 9 months later has 50000km.

 

Issues include: head set bearings, clutch slave leak, water pump cover seal leak, blown r/r,  dirty injectors, cheesey O rings on the cooling elbows, need for a clean and lube in the rear end, loose spark plugs. And the valve clearances on 2 exaust valves were just a smidge tight (they are not so hard to check. Changing the shims means cam out though).

 

Change the brake and clutch fluid and maybe the coolant, do the engine oil and filter, lube the chain and check the brake pads. Then ride it lots... I still get a kick out of riding through tunnels and under passes!

 

Enjoy.

 

 

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Definitely ended up having a charging prob, as it turned out. With bike running, voltage swung wildly at anything more than a bit above idle. Tested harness leads going to regulator. All normal. Tested resistance on the regulator, and got “out of range” both in and out. I’m thinking that this conclusively proves the problem is the regulator and nothing but, right?

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21 hours ago, Bubba5000 said:

Definitely ended up having a charging prob, as it turned out. With bike running, voltage swung wildly at anything more than a bit above idle. Tested harness leads going to regulator. All normal. Tested resistance on the regulator, and got “out of range” both in and out. I’m thinking that this conclusively proves the problem is the regulator and nothing but, right?

test stator ac voltage output at various rpm's first.  if that tests OK, then r/r is probably bad.  inspect red plug on starter solenoid too.

 

ohmmeter readings on r/r's may not be reliable.

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You can also unbolt and inspect the back of the r/r to see if there is any bulging, bubbling or blistering in potting compound the electronics are held in.

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