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GreenOnion84

1995 - Stops charging when warm

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You do have 2 long bolts (with the head sawed off) to "guide" the cover on?  with the lot being magnetic, it will pull sideways when fitting.

Once on with some regular bolts in the other holes, take out the guides and button up.

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Dutchy said:

You do have 2 long bolts (with the head sawed off) to "guide" the cover on?  with the lot being magnetic, it will pull sideways when fitting.

Once on with some regular bolts in the other holes, take out the guides and button up.

 

 

Yeah and mount your gasket on the Engine side not the Stator cover side.

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Well. The stator is putting out the right numbers. Installed it today and put the new Ricks regulator on. Took it for a ride. Tested it after the ride again to make sure it was still putting out good numbers. 

 

Stator is putting out good numbers. On initial startup, revving to 5k gave me 14.2V.  

 

Went  to for the ride and tested it when I got back home. 11.2 at Idle 12.2V at 5K rpm.  So, as before, it’s not charging when it’s warm. 

 

again, I tested the regulator using the method ricks says to use and it showed no bad diodes.

 

Is it normal for the frame to get so hot it feels like it’s going to burn you?  Is it a bad ground, even though I took them off and checked the contacts?  

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 When you mention the frame getting hot, are you talking about the subframe where the Regulator is mounted? If it is too hot to touch, it sounds like the regulator is sinking too much current and getting too hot. I suspect the Regulator is failing when hot.

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51 minutes ago, COS_VFR said:

 When you mention the frame getting hot, are you talking about the subframe where the Regulator is mounted? If it is too hot to touch, it sounds like the regulator is sinking too much current and getting too hot. I suspect the Regulator is failing when hot.

Tomorrow I’ll attach my old regulator and see if it’s any different. However, it’s the entire bike frame. It’s too hot to touch.   

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11 hours ago, GreenOnion84 said:

Well. The stator is putting out the right numbers. Installed it today and put the new Ricks regulator on. Took it for a ride. Tested it after the ride again to make sure it was still putting out good numbers. 

 

Stator is putting out good numbers. On initial startup, revving to 5k gave me 14.2V.  

 

Went  to for the ride and tested it when I got back home. 11.2 at Idle 12.2V at 5K rpm.  So, as before, it’s not charging when it’s warm. 

 

again, I tested the regulator using the method ricks says to use and it showed no bad diodes.

 

Is it normal for the frame to get so hot it feels like it’s going to burn you?  Is it a bad ground, even though I took them off and checked the contacts?  

Your symptoms still act like a bad stator leg while hot. Plz do the stator test while hot and gimme data. I don't care what Rick's says.. ...No on the bike numbers... no help.

You can't blame the R/R until you confirm the stator is good or bad.

 

And yes, all VFR frames get hot from normal running.

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On ‎7‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 7:03 AM, mello dude said:

Your symptoms still act like a bad stator leg while hot. Plz do the stator test while hot and gimme data. I don't care what Rick's says.. ...No on the bike numbers... no help.

You can't blame the R/R until you confirm the stator is good or bad.

 

And yes, all VFR frames get hot from normal running.

Okay, thank you. 

 

I tested the stator while hot and it would appear it's actually good.  All stator legs go up past 60 AC when revved around 5k and up.  I'm starting to wonder if the regulator went bad from the old stator that was bad.  I conducted a diode test that they say to try online, but who the hell knows.  the DC voltage I got from testing 11.2-12.2 was tested on the wires directly from the regulator.  It heats up incredibly quick and is too hot to touch or I'll get burned.  Rick's told me it's not good for the regulator to sit while idle, but lets be realistic, if you get stuck in a traffic jam your bike is going to be idling and not getting good air flow. 

 

I think I may just fork out the $160 and get the super mosfet kit from roadstercycle.com.  Unfortunately I won't be able to do it until after my vacation which gets done near the end of July.  I'm running out of days because I leave and will be across the country starting the 10th.  Basically anything I order to attempt to fix it at this point is not even likely to arrive in time.

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There's just no way your R/R should be getting that hot. Assuming your stator is now OK and you've tried another R/R then the only thing that can cause excessive heat is the load on the system, excessive current draw. Is your wiring all standard? Any added accessories?

 

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11 hours ago, Grum said:

There's just no way your R/R should be getting that hot. Assuming your stator is now OK and you've tried another R/R then the only thing that can cause excessive heat is the load on the system, excessive current draw. Is your wiring all standard? Any added accessories?

 

Yes, wiring is standard and there are no added accessories.  I do have a voltmeter I ordered but don't want to put it in until I get everything situated. 

 

I'm just going to order the FH020AA Super Mofset kit from roadstercycle.com.  I was considering getting the FH847, which I still may, however when I called them on the phone they said unless I plan on doing track days with the bike or having the headlights unplugged then I probably don't need that one and to go with the $150 kit.  Which comes with the Mofset regulator and all the upgraded wiring that bypasses all that stock garbage.

 

I just won't be able to do it until late July.

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