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Stator Question


BC800

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2007 VFR 800 RWB - 30,000kms

 

Never replaced Stator or RR. 

Machine has been perfect during my ownership.

 

Good Luck! and Ride Safe!

 

 

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5 hours ago, BC800 said:

How many 6th gen owners have had to replace your stators?

Getting that time? :beer:

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If you've got in the range of 25,000 miles or more, it's worth pulling the cover off and having a look at the stator.   That will likely convince you to change it regardless of whether it's still working.  I pulled mine off at just short of 20,000 miles (while still working)  and it looked like it had been grilled with the last batch of burgers on the BBQ.  The insulation on the much of the wiring was fried.  I have another failed one if you'd like a pic for comparison.  More than a few members have been on long trips and been left stranded when their stators went south.  Even though it costs a bit to replace it pre-emptively, it's a lot cheaper than a tow, motel rooms, missed work etc while things get sorted out.  Plus you depart with peace of mind not wondering if it's going to crap out on you.  I used Custom Rewind in Birmingham, AL (on facebook) and have been very happy with their work.  Be patient - the owner Gary has MS and sounds drunk - but he's a very nice guy and they do quality work.

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I'm currently dealing with the typical electrical issues.  However, the stator tests (resistance and continuity to ground) seem to have given me false positives.  Just plugged in my new R/R and fired it up....No charging at any engine speed.  I'm 0.5ohms over the factory spec. in terms of resistance between the charging wires.  Is that enough to render the stator junk?

I just took the stator cover off and there's discoloration in the windings over 3/4 of the stator.... the part usually submerged in oil looks normal copper windings and the rest looks darker.

 

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1 hour ago, 604RC46 said:

I'm currently dealing with the typical electrical issues.  However, the stator tests (resistance and continuity to ground) seem to have given me false positives.  Just plugged in my new R/R and fired it up....No charging at any engine speed.  I'm 0.5ohms over the factory spec. in terms of resistance between the charging wires.  Is that enough to render the stator junk?

I just took the stator cover off and there's discoloration in the windings over 3/4 of the stator.... the part usually submerged in oil looks normal copper windings and the rest looks darker.

 

The common way stators fail is a short to ground, so you need to have your Multimeter on the highest Ohms range, place one lead on any of the 3 output wires and the other to the frame of the bike (a solid ground point OR the Negative of your battery), make sure your fingers are NOT touching the tips of the meter probes. You should see infinite resistance i.e. no continuity to ground, if you do see any resistance then the Stator is no good.

Haven't seen a situation where any of the phase windings go open or short circuit, but that is always on the cards!. 

The 0.5ohms you're saying over the factory spec may well be just the meter lead resistance. You need to short your meter leads together read the very low value and subtract that from your reading, to get the true Ohms reading of the output wire phases.

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9 minutes ago, Grum said:

 You should see infinite resistance i.e. no continuity to ground, if you do, the Stator is cactus.

Yup that's what i see.  And that's what the Factory service data (section 17-9)  says I should see.  By "cactus" are you saying it's good or toast?  Still confused.

The bike has had the harness recall done if that matters.  I've also installed the VFRNess as well.

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1 hour ago, 604RC46 said:

Yup that's what i see.  And that's what the Factory service data (section 17-9)  says I should see.  By "cactus" are you saying it's good or toast?  Still confused.

The bike has had the harness recall done if that matters.  I've also installed the VFRNess as well.

Sorry 604RC46 if I've confused you. See original post, I've clarified my wording.

 

So, NO continuity from any of the output wires to frame. If you DO get any low reading to Frame your stator is shorted, cactus, toast, stuffed, unserviceable, fu@&ed.

 

Measure between all three Yellow output wires (Phase to Phase) and they should be between 0.1 to 1.0 Ohms if not then it's also stuffed.

 

If your Stator passes the above two checks, then there is most likely a fault with your R/R. Or the main wiring and main fuse to your battery positive.

 

Good Luck.

 

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Be aware that the resistance readings might be good, but the stator might still be faulty. This is often the case. 

Only way to be sure is to test voltage between phases while engine running. 

Both at idle and 5000rpm. 

 

 

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4 minutes ago, VFROZ said:

Be aware that the resistance readings might be good, but the stator might still be faulty. This is often the case. 

Only way to be sure is to test voltage between phases while engine running. 

Both at idle and 5000rpm. 

 

 

I get nothing above 11.8v with engine running and high beams on regardless of engine speed

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No, you need to test the stator. 

You unplug it from harness, you then check between phases A B and C. 

You should get around 25vac at idle, and 65vac at 5000rpm. 

Thats AC volts, not DC. 

Only way to know if stator is good. 

If you get that, then the RR is faulty. 

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