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PetePower

Slipping Clutch

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What have I done....

The other week I flushed the Brake and Clutch fluid on my 2014 VFR, using recommended Dot4.

All went well so I thought. Only rode one day last week but have ridden every day this week.

Earlier in the week I noticed that the Clutch lever was not disengaging in normal position and basically lever was fully released before drive engaged. 

Then last night when nearly home had to accelerate fairly hard from standing start and the clutch slipped, backed off and brought the power on slower and ok.

This morning same issue with clutch position, but didn't push it to try and exaggerate the clutch slip.

At a standstill in gear with clutch engaged there is no creeping.

Any suggestions what is needed to remedy this issue?

 

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If you had no issue before the clutch bleed then surely you've got air in the line. Somewhere remember there can be an issue with getting the air out of the clutch line. May involve loosening the top banjo fitting.

Hope someone will be able to elaborate on that process for you.

Have bled the Clutch a few times on my 2014 with no issues!

Good luck.

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Yes the plan is to give it a re-bleed tonight and fingers crossed issue resolved. Just hope the plates haven't been glazed up...

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Remember the old micro bubble fix, if you angle bike bars etc so master cylinder is at the highest point. When normal bleeding is finished, wait a minute, then just move the lever enough the hear the brake switch, use same amount of wiggle on clutch lever, just slight in out movements, this sucks bubbles out of the banjo into the MC piston & allows the. To escape via fluid hole in base of MC reservoir. This is just teasing the lever, no real travel. If no more air appears, then pull lever full in & tape or tie it to the bar, leave it for 30 minutes, this will compress any air in the system to micro bubbles which will float up the line in the fluid & collect at the banjo. Release lever slowly, this will expand the air & the bubbles will merge together. Now tease the lever again & watch for the bubbles coming up into the reservoir. 

 

Once complete, test the clutch action, by putting bike in gear & use your toe or a helper to try to move rear wheel, once you have applied pressure to the wheel, then pull clutch in slowly & you should feel the disengagement point. 

 

 

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Wouldn’t air make it not disengage?

Was it particularly dirty/old fluid? It sounds like the ST1100 I bought earlier this year. The return port was blocked and that “pumped up” the clutch cylinder to the point I could freely spin the rear wheel in gear on the center stand. I cracked the banjo to release the pressure to get me home. Took it apart and found the blockage. Maybe you dislodged some debris when you bled it and blocked the return?

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Thank you for your responses.

Not 100% but I think I may have over filled the reservoir!! I re-bled two lever pulls, no bubbles. Gave the lever a few more pulls and actually pulled out the little plate in the bottom of the reservoir and a couple more pulls. Put it all back together and its been fine since. Fist thing I noticed was the pressure required to operate the Lever was less, so wondering if it was overfilled it was just pressurised.

The Clutch fluid was a bit grotty Kevin, which was surprising, the brake fluids still looked like new.

On the road again.....

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24 minutes ago, PetePower said:

Thank you for your responses.

Not 100% but I think I may have over filled the reservoir!! I re-bled two lever pulls, no bubbles. Gave the lever a few more pulls and actually pulled out the little plate in the bottom of the reservoir and a couple more pulls. Put it all back together and its been fine since. Fist thing I noticed was the pressure required to operate the Lever was less, so wondering if it was overfilled it was just pressurised.

The Clutch fluid was a bit grotty Kevin, which was surprising, the brake fluids still looked like new.

On the road again.....

Good news, glad it was nothing serious.

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