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Pair Mod


Darinmac6

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20190528_162010_HDR.thumb.jpg.b25861cda3f262aa935228c5bb738aa8.jpg20190528_162128_HDR.thumb.jpg.32f1ede64efd1a20892db316fbf19c88.jpgHere's my question. If you are disconnecting the Pair valve solenoid and blocking off the hose to the air box couldn't you in theorytake the solenoid out completely and marry the front and rear hoses together?

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Have never done the Pair mod. But keeping it simple, surely just electrically disconnecting the Pair valve blocks off air to the output ports. The ECM doesn't flag up any code for the Pair Valve. Wouldn't that do what you're trying to achieve?

To be extra sure, you could also block the incoming air hose to the valve.

Makes for an easy reversion back to stock standard ops if you ever need to.

However removing the solenoid and joining the output pipes together effectively does the same thing!

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I wouldn't think it would be a problem, but to what gain? I understand the urge to eliminate unnecessary garbage, but why not just slip a couple of vacuum hose caps over the ports if you want to ditch the solenoid without buying block-off plates.

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+1

 

 

PS: I believe that perfomance-wise doing this will be negiligable, but I'd love to see a dynochart showing before and after modification (on the same day) to the contrary. 

Setting up the PCV on my RC51, the dynojet guru clamped the hose. but when asked if I should remove it for any impact (other than clutter/weight) he said NO.

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Yes, you can remove the solenoid. But why would you leave the hoses in place, better to get rid of them as well to actually gain some space around the airbox. Buy some silicone hats and put them on the pair valve inlets, or buy some plates and remove the actual valves as well.

 

If you just disconnect the electrical connection to the solenoid, please check that the functionality of the solenoid valve is working (ie that the solenoid valve is closed and blocking air flow). It didn't on my bike, so after that the reed valves coxed enough I had an always open connection from the exhaust to the intake (airbox). That didn't work wonders for performance and mileage! It ran really REALLY rich.

 

My advice would be, either leave the PAIR system alone, and do the regular maintenance of the PAIR reed valves (ie clean them regularly), or block of the PAIR system completly. Don't just disconnect the electrical connector, at least not long term.

 

If you run a Power Commander or a RapidBike with auto-tune, you need to block of PAIR. If you do not you don't gain anything other than a little less popping in the exhaust.

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Fully removed the PAIR system on my 08 VFR including the valves themselves, replacing the caps with a set of Mello Dudes replacements and the bike was a smoother beast. Definitely would do it again if I had a pre-14 model.

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What does the Pair mod Do? in short.  More Horse power? more torque? Is this mod needed for day to day driving or is this for racing?

 

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The PAIR system just introduces extra air into the exhaust under certain limited conditions as a supposed emissions control. It's a woefully antiquated design, and is pure foolishness when coupled with an oxygen sensor. Anyone notice that smog pumps went away on cars when injection became common? Well, this is the motorcycle equivalent to the smog pump. 

 

Just my honest opinion. 

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4 hours ago, ohwhell said:

What does the Pair mod Do? in short.  More Horse power? more torque? Is this mod needed for day to day driving or is this for racing?

 

It does nothing to performance as it only opens into the exhaust port to introduce air into the exhaust at a fully closed throttle to help get rid of unburnt fuel.

It stops the popping on a closed throttle, that is it. 

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Now that I'm off work, I'll go into a little more detail... These little beasts have been around in one form or another for a long time... I have a 1981 Yamaha that had one.

 

It takes more than just closed throttle, it's closed throttle and below full operating temps. See this comment by coderighter...

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/58258-pair-valve-disabling/&do=findComment&comment=690824

 

It sort of goes along with my point. In "closed loop mode" when your injection is running with the mixture corrected by the o2 sensor readings, the last thing you would want is a source of extra air in your tailpipe. To avoid that, Honda only makes it active before the bike warms up. In a perfect world, you would let your bike warm up before you started riding, and the stupid thing would never activate.

 

In this imperfect world, these thing can fail... open. I let the bike warm up fully almost every time I ride. That means: 1) most of the time it's just an extra bit of unnecessary junk on a very busy bike, and 2) on the occasion that I don't, I'm relying on a solenoid valve that rarely sees movement which is a recipe for a stuck valve in my opinion. 

 

TLDR - No more horsepower, no more torque, just a small bit of emissions gear that only operates under extremely limited conditions. You won't miss it any more than you'd miss your appendix!

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PAIR Valve bloody confusion!:comp13:

Guess if you plan to simply disconnect the electrical connector from the valve you'd better block off the air inflow port to the valve, just to be sure.

 

5th gen Service Manual -Valve Energized = OPEN

 

PAIR_5gen.JPG

5th gen Technical Features - Valve Energized = CLOSED!

 

PAIR_5gen2.JPG

6th gen Service Manual - Valve Energized = OPEN 

 

PAIR_6gen.JPG

 

7th and 8th gen Service Manual - Valve Energized = CLOSED!

 

PAIR_8gen.JPG

 

 

 

 

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Ha! Just to complicate things a bit.

 

So they've obviously changed things over time. It's possible that the operating conditions changed as well... though I'd be willing to put at least a few bucks on them being roughly the same: Only open on closed throttle, above idle, while cold. 

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3 hours ago, Marvelicious said:

Ha! Just to complicate things a bit.

 

So they've obviously changed things over time. It's possible that the operating conditions changed as well... though I'd be willing to put at least a few bucks on them being roughly the same: Only open on closed throttle, above idle, while cold. 

So to sum it up if I Let my Bike warm up I would never know I have this thing. But if it is a useless piece for only cold(Pre warm up) conditions. block the line? (witch one there 3) an disconnect the power/ am I correct here. (I live in Florida warm up is 1 min here LOL)

 

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3 hours ago, ohwhell said:

So to sum it up if I Let my Bike warm up I would never know I have this thing. But if it is a useless piece for only cold(Pre warm up) conditions. block the line? (witch one there 3) an disconnect the power/ am I correct here. (I live in Florida warm up is 1 min here LOL)

 

Yeah, my bike is usually warm by the time I get my gear on. If that's how you roll, the PAIR valve won't affect you... unless it fails open at some point. If your goal is only to disable it, the thread I linked to above shows about the simplest way (marbles). I prefer the idea of removing the system entirely, but there isn't much difference effectively apart from a few ounces worth of valve and hose. 

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On 5/29/2019 at 8:39 AM, Skids said:

Fully removed the PAIR system on my 08 VFR including the valves themselves, replacing the caps with a set of Mello Dudes replacements and the bike was a smoother beast. Definitely would do it again if I had a pre-14 model.

Adding fuel to the fire.

 

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