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Parasitic draw


Quetepasa

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'98 VFR800 has a draw that drains the battery overnight. When measured at the negative cable with a multimeter it shows .17 amps. I had a no start issue where the fuel pump wasn’t powered. I pulled 2 relays (first by the battery and second further back by the rear brake master cylinder). I jumped the first and rewired the fuel pump to it to get it to turn on when the key and kill switch are on because I didn’t have continuity between the relays or to the fuel pump. They no longer control spark, just fuel. I’m wondering what I did to cause the draw? I know I should order the relays and properly wire them, but I'm trying to get it right ASAP and don't want to wait another weekend for parts.

Tests I've run:

  • Book test for continuity on relays.  Test for continuity on switched posts with and without 12v at powered posts. FAILED
  • Continuity check between brown wire on second relay and fuel pump. FAILED
  • Continuity between exit side of first relay and enter side of second (sorry I don't remember colors right now). FAILED
  • Voltage check at first relay (12v at one side of both switch and resistor) PASS
  • Voltage check while the first relay is jumped at second relay (no voltage at any pole) FAILED
  • Current setup jumping first relay with fuel pump wired to it draw test at negative battery cable with key and kill switch off .17 amp FAILED
  • Draw test after removing jumper 0 amp PASS

I'd like to at the very least eliminate the draw when the relay is jumped.  Any Ideas on how to do that? Thanks in advance

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  • Member Contributer

Yeah, so sounds like you know the problem and you want someone to tell you how to rig it up in a potentially improper manner.  If one of those relays overheats and fuses "closed" or the wiring is not done properly, I'm not going to be the one responsible for burning your bike to the ground or killing you/others.  Even if I say "do this at your own risk", it does not necessarily absolve me of responsibility.

 

This may sound harsh, but you will get plenty of advice here how to do it the right way.  I wouldn't, not would I recommend that you ride your bike on public roads in it's current condition - what if you have an accident and emergency personnel can't turn off your bike.

 

The only thing I will say is that the usual current draw for a relay is about 160mA.  One of your relays is probably connected to a circuit not controlled by the key or kill switch since this is in the neighborhood of your current draw.

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Why have you taken 2 important relays out of circuit? This is not a good or safe way to fix your fuel pump issue.

 

You haven't mentioned the relay name! but assume you have linked out the Engine Stop relay, if that's the case then your current draw you've created should be obvious! Check Your Circuit Diagram

 

Hard wiring the Fuel Pump is another strange and dangerous thing to do especially in the event of an accident? Linking out the Engine Stop Relay also means your Kill Switch and your Bank Angle Sensor are useless, another potentially dangerous situation.

 

Your original Fuel Pump issue is highly unlikely to have involved BOTH the relays you've messed with!

 

I can only suggest you get your bike wiring back to standard and relays installed ASAP, then go about proper diagnosis of your Fuel Pump Issue, which generally is not too difficult a system to fault find.

 

Bypassing your Fuel Pump fault by modifying the bikes safety systems and wiring is not a good practice.

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