LEGEND Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 New fluids, tires, starter valve sync and my baby was running sweet. I know my 30 amp fuse holder was looking pretty scorched, burned wires and all but no problem until I decided to tweak around and look at the fuse. The contacts were dirty so I used a fine Emory board to clean them up a bit and replaced it. Fired it up and all was good except the now the fuse for the horn, running lights and turn signals must have blown because they all stopped functioning. I stopped tweaking after that and took the NT instead. Later with a less pissed off mindset I took the seat off and again felt the crispy wires and looked at the burned fuse holder and was glad I didn’t get stranded. I have zero electric diagnostics equipment and would like get this done at home if at all humanly possible. I appeal to the skilled and knowledgeable folks here to give some suggestions on how to proceed. It’s a 2007 non abs, had a ground issue a couple of years ago that was sorted out by a Honda shop in San Francisco, other than that zero probs with the electric system, no electric accessories. Go go slow I just turned 56!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted April 24, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted April 24, 2019 On my '08 I cut that fuse holder out and replaced it with a heavier duty unit from NAPA. Also, a tube of Oxgard will treat all the connectors in the system if you want to go that far. Flat toothpicks work well to apply it. It's a conductive paste vs the oft mentioned dielectric grease which is an insulator. You'll especially want to remove the right side fairing and check (and treat) the connector with 3 yellow wires leading to the R/R. Those are notorious for frying themselves. Take a voltmeter and check across the battery terminals. You should get around 14v or a bit more with the engine running well above idle. If not, more needs to be done. Search on "The Drill" in the electrical forum for more detailed diagnostics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEGEND Posted April 24, 2019 Author Share Posted April 24, 2019 Lotta good info once I started digging. The Wiremybike website was also very helpful, even instructional video on testing R/R using a $6.00 harbor freight 7 function digital multimeter. I’ll know what the deal is when I get the fairings off and and check connectors and voltage output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted April 24, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted April 24, 2019 On my '99 Fifth Gen I found the 30a fuse in similar to maybe worse condition so I replaced it with a 30a circuit breaker from RoadsterCycle.com. It connects with nuts on studs and ring terminals, so no loose connections to corrode and arc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEGEND Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 Thanks I’ll check those out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 25, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted April 25, 2019 Just remember if using conductive grease, that only the tiniest amount should be used. If you use too much & it migrates due to heat or vibration it can become a Short path inside multi pin connectors ! Last year I had a strange electrical issue which was traced back to the Honda fitted earth block in the wiring loom (5th gen) on inspection it was perfect. But when I pulled all the earth wires out of it 3 had heavy corrosion. Once cleaned wire twisted & soldered together to replace the block, all was good. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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