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Powder coated wheels on 5th Gen


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On ‎5‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 9:40 PM, sfdownhill said:

 

Thanks for doing the legwork to find Prismatic's Triple Bronze as a match for 8 gen accent colors. Did you try Triple Bronze out on a test piece before having all those parts coated?

I actually didn't have them run a test piece first. we just looked at the paint card next to the 10 spoke wheel and said "close enough" and went for it lol. ended up working out.

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I know this is a bit off topic but are there any alternative wheel options for the 5th gen VFR's? Something lighter?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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2AC145E1-CCC3-4F68-AEF5-F7DA1E08DA15.thumb.jpeg.a64b364b437e32512b841190303f3db0.jpeg

 

There ya go nice and light BST Carbon Wheels for an RC45, not a straight swap, but worth it IMO, but the price might shock you. Front is 2.25kg, rear is 3kg, these are the road use ones with alloy hubs. The race version are lighter still with magnesium hubs. Stock 5th gen wheels are 4.5 & 6 kg respectively.

 

This setup with Ti front axle & all bolts in the brakes, pinch etc saved 4.5kg of unsprung weight, & in the rear with Ti bolts, my own design Cush drive etc saved 6.5kg, that’s 11kg out of the bikes weight from the best place possible.

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Unless your roads are much better than mine, I'd save those carbon fiber wheels for track use only. Light is good, but sometimes light is also fairly fragile.

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2AC145E1-CCC3-4F68-AEF5-F7DA1E08DA15.thumb.jpeg.a64b364b437e32512b841190303f3db0.jpeg
 
There ya go nice and light BST Carbon Wheels for an RC45, not a straight swap, but worth it IMO, but the price might shock you. Front is 2.25kg, rear is 3kg, these are the road use ones with alloy hubs. The race version are lighter still with magnesium hubs. Stock 5th gen wheels are 4.5 & 6 kg respectively.
 
This setup with Ti front axle & all bolts in the brakes, pinch etc saved 4.5kg of unsparing weight & in the rear with Ti bolts, my own design Cush drive etc saved 6.5kg, that’s 11kg out of the bikes weight from the best place possible.
I guess I should have said "affordable"!

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23 hours ago, FJ12Ryder said:

Unless your roads are much better than mine, I'd save those carbon fiber wheels for track use only. Light is good, but sometimes light is also fairly fragile.

Can you justify that statement with some technical knowledge ?

 

I used to make this stuff for F1 & Aircraft. The TUV tests in Germany are arguably the toughest in the world. All other manufacturers use one wheel per test, there were 7 tests, so 7 wheels. BST subjected one single wheel of each type to all 7 tests then X-rayed the wheel, followed by chop testing sections & no faults/damage was found. I'd trust these further than I would magnesium or stock cast alloy wheels.

 

The handling is transformed with these, it handles like CBR600RR now.  At a trackday last year I was running with a GSXR600 race bike that's much lighter with similar power 👍😎

 

YMMV

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On 3/12/2019 at 2:50 PM, adkfinn said:

Thanks for this, I'll do some reading. 

 

Edit - Found the thread: 

 

Great thread, good info. Thanks @3dcycle

 

I know that redslut.... :tongue:

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1 hour ago, Mohawk said:

Can you justify that statement with some technical knowledge ?

 

I used to make this stuff for F1 & Aircraft. The TUV tests in Germany are arguably the toughest in the world. All other manufacturers use one wheel per test, there were 7 tests, so 7 wheels. BST subjected one single wheel of each type to all 7 tests then X-rayed the wheel, followed by chop testing sections & no faults/damage was found. I'd trust these further than I would magnesium or stock cast alloy wheels.

 

The handling is transformed with these, it handles like CBR600RR now.  At a trackday last year I was running with a GSXR600 race bike that's much lighter with similar power 👍😎

 

YMMV

So you subjected BST street motorcycle wheels to these tests, or race wheels and aircraft wheels? Just an opinion about lightweight wheels. I've owned some lightweight

wheels for my bicycle and they generally have caveats about very rough roads or too much weight. I've seen heavyweight steel and aluminum wheels severely dented/cracked

by an unavoided monster pothole or object in the road. I wonder how these lightweight wheels would have reacted to that kind of severe input.

 

You ride what you want, and I'll ride what I want, and we'll both be happy. But my opinion still stands, but it's just an opinion.

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I didn't test any wheels, BST the company that make them put them through the TUV acceptance tests as required to sell them in Europe, as do all other manufacturers. But the point was BST have enough faith in their product to use a single wheel for all seven tests. Where as every other manufacturer uses a single wheel per test, as they don't believe their wheels could survive all the tests !

 

Light does NOT mean weak, check the next plane you fly on, not alot of steel there. Any older 737/757/767 or 747 you fly on, I & some colleagues made the carbon material for our sister factory to make the floor panels that your seat is attached to & that you walk on to it. They have had millions of feet, thousands of flights/landings & are still going strong.  Just because certain cycling parts are made a bit flimsy, does not mean all carbon parts are.  BST wheels have a 400Kg weight rating !

https://intheknowcycling.com/2018/10/14/carbon-road-bike-wheels/

 

The other major difference, is that alloy or metal wheels have ZERO bend tolerance, so hitting a big pot hole or large rock, will dent them if the tyre deflects enough. A carbon rim has some structural flex in these extreme circumstances, so is less likely to permanently deform, plus being lighter, they experience less impact force to begin with & the suspension can deflect faster due to their reduce inertia.  Bicycle rims, have basically NO tyre suspension, racing tyres are pumped to silly pressures, to reduce rolling resistance, which means most shock gets transmitted straight to the wheel rim, especially hard edges of pot holes for example. Motorcycle tyres have a good depth of tyre to absorb a lot of impact & are attached to suspension where as most road bicycles don't have suspension. I've dented a few steel & alloy bicycle rims in my life, plus a couple of motorcycle alloy ones too.

 

But yes, feel free to use what suits  you.

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Side note @Mohawk, I used to make the titanium (2, 4, & 6 bend channel) floor supports for the 747. Also exterior door corners, interior thresholds, drip rails and a slew of clips & brackets for 747/777/787.

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I'd love a set of BST wheels on my SP2........  :wub:

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I feel like this stuff would be pretty sweet if they could get the base color a little less bleak: retro-reflective powder coating... but why does it have to be wet concrete grey? If I could get it in white, I'd be all over it.

lumen3.jpg

 

2697988808_9d00595abf_b.jpg

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On 6/10/2019 at 1:59 PM, SEBSPEED said:

Side note @Mohawk, I used to make the titanium (2, 4, & 6 bend channel) floor supports for the 747. Also exterior door corners, interior thresholds, drip rails and a slew of clips & brackets for 747/777/787.

Small world I used to work for Hyfil which was bought by BP & operated a carbon prepreg fab in a section of their Bristol UK factory where they made 8x4 hexcell floor panels with 3 layers of our prepreg bonded to each side. We once borrowed a panel & put it on blocks at either end & you could walk over it with no bending, amazing.   Feels like a life time ago now.

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2 hours ago, seanvfr1200 said:

Beautiful bronze!

 

Any idea where in the US I can get this done?

Hey Sean - I love the Triple Bronze too, and it definitely was a perfect match for MiniCarver's 8 gen components. But I went astray by not getting color swatches from Prismatic or, even better, paying my applicator to buy a small amount and powdercoat a test piece. I had a pair of wheels, 2 valve covers, a clutch cover, and three calipers coated in Prismatic Triple Bronze and they all came out a lovely darker, greener color than the 8 gen wheel/component color.

 

After facing the consequences [cost] of my mistake, I contacted Prismatic and learned that they have a four tier color matching program. You send them a part that is the color you want to match, then they do either a

[1] Quick Search - a no-charge search of all their current colors with no minimum purchase. They then send you 2-5 swatches of the colors they've found closest to your color for $6 shipping

[2] Archive Search - no charge for the search, but there is a 6 pound minimum purchase [Powdercoat powders run roughly $11-15 per pound]. They search 6500 colors and textures they have on file, then send color/texture swatches [unspecified quantity] closest to the part you sent for $6 shipping.

[3] Reformulation - the Prismatic description of this process is not entirely clear, but the service costs $100 to provide swatches, and carries a 10 pound minimum purchase.

[4] New Formulation - again the description is not clear, but does involve terms like 'chemistry' and 'complex'. This service costs $400 to produce a sample of the color, requires a 45 pound minimum purchase, and takes 8-12 weeks.

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Here’s the admittedly subtle difference between Honda Pyrite Brown Metallic (8 gen accent color) and the way my powdercoater applied Prismatic Triple Bronze. I recommend that anyone having powdercoating done with a specific color in mind have a test part done or at least get color swatches.

imageproxy.php?img=&key=2f13eb558190e64dimageproxy.php?img=&key=2f13eb558190e64d364ABAA3-F4A1-47AB-B562-B4225B041AC9.thumb.jpeg.2737f5f3a2357931df998d94bf6f2411.jpeg

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36 minutes ago, sfdownhill said:

Here’s the admittedly subtle difference between Honda Pyrite Brown Metallic (8 gen accent color) and the way my powdercoater applied Prismatic Triple Bronze. I recommend that anyone having powdercoating done with a specific color in mind have a test part done or at least get color swatches.

 

Sorry you had to find out the hard way, but thank you for sharing your experience with us so that others can avoid this mistake. 

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19 hours ago, sfdownhill said:

Here’s the admittedly subtle difference between Honda Pyrite Brown Metallic (8 gen accent color) and the way my powdercoater applied Prismatic Triple Bronze. I recommend that anyone having powdercoating done with a specific color in mind have a test part done or at least get color swatches.

imageproxy.php?img=&key=2f13eb558190e64dimageproxy.php?img=&key=2f13eb558190e64d364ABAA3-F4A1-47AB-B562-B4225B041AC9.thumb.jpeg.2737f5f3a2357931df998d94bf6f2411.jpeg

 

It doesn't appear to be top coated with clear powder, you might try having them shoot you a sample with clear on top. It will change the look of the base coat, most always lightening it a few shades. Might get you close enough - if so, they can simply top coat your parts for the same effect. 

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8 hours ago, SEBSPEED said:

 

It doesn't appear to be top coated with clear powder, you might try having them shoot you a sample with clear on top. It will change the look of the base coat, most always lighter ing it a few shades. Might get you close enough - if so, they can simply top coat your parts for the same effect. 

Cool - thanks Seb. A clear  topping coat is a good idea - like adding whipped cream to anything - might very well lighten things up. I will check w the applicator and see if he’s up for a test.

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I'm beginning research on changing my wheel color. At this point, I'm thinking of stripping the bronze and clear coating them.

 

I've pulled bearings for other things, but never wheels. How much of a pita is it to pull them? 

 

Then, the stripping looks to be its own monster. Do you spray with a gun? Or just wipe it on and off? TIA

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  • 3 weeks later...

Black isn't the worst choice ;D Hides the dirt! I've been powdercoating my wheels gold for every red VFR I get. Looks AMAZING, but it definitely let's everyone know when they're dirty or not haha. (Clear coats on top should be a given) Then again, you should clean them every week anyways. Here's a picture for any reference. 

IMG_20170501_154300755.jpg

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