StrikeZero Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 The last time the Steed saw road usage was about 4-6 years ago. I've been doing some work on and off the get her ready for a come back. Here's a small recap. She suffered from charging issues that was band-aided with VFRness. It went from 13.5v=>14.5v @ 5000rpm. After dying in traffic when the fan kicked it on, I parked it. I ran a test saw 12v @ 5000RPM 😟. I pull the body work and found a knockoff Shindengen R/R. I'm actually shocked that it "worked" for nearly 5 years of riding. I ran a test on the stator using Rick's Motorsports guide and it was pretty much toast. I'm betting the knockoff killed the stator and battery. Ordered up a stator from WireMyBike and a real FH020AA Shindengen R/R from eBay. Threw the parts at the Steed along with an oil change + filter, @mello dude pair valve delete plates, and COPs from a 2007 GSXR 600. She was sloooooooow to fire up, but eventually running. I let her idle while put away the tools and boxes from opening goodies. The voltage was 13.4v @ idle and once up to temp, 14.2v @ 5000rpm. The stator tested great as well. I'll try the real test later this week. . . high beam and with the fan running. A few questions . . . . Should I remove the VFRness? Should I wire the R/R directly to the battery? What should be an accept voltage range? FSM says 15.5v @ 5000rpm After I get the voltage and slow, cold starting sorted, I'll move to bleeding the brakes/clutch, mounting 929 shock, and mounting new tires + rear wheel (current one is bent). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted February 25, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted February 25, 2019 Hi - 13.4 idle and 14.2 @ 5000 rpm is generally fine. Mostly, I dont want to see over around 14.6 ish... 15s make me nervous.... -Dunno if you have already, but installing a voltmeter up front to watch things is a good idea. - Thanks for the pair valve photos.. - The VFRness will be a debate topic, but I will state I am not a fan, pull it. For the R/R, you should be wiring it direct to battery with a fuse to pos, and direct to ground/neg battery. Then for stator connection, either solder with heat shrink tubing or use a high quality automotive crimp with tubing. I am a huge believer in building for overkill. --- A good source for things is www.roadstercycle.com --- Also - http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html Wire illustrated as the 2nd pic below, ignore the Compufire comments.... no VFRness required. 30 A fuse instead of 40 plz. --(credit JZH) Here's pic of my current '98 with the FH020AA installed. The stock OEM connector is sealed up out of use, lower left. No VFRness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Zarquon Posted February 25, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted February 25, 2019 I find the FH020AA takes a little more RPM to get it going than the stock RR and puts out about 0.2V lower (14.2) in hot riding conditions. When its 20C outside the charge voltage is higher 14 3 to 14.4V. My bike uses the original bike wiring plus a bridge from the RR to the frame ground and a fused link to the battery +ve. I haven't looked back since swapping out the rr 10000km ago. I recently did an injector clean after 19 years and 50000km. My but dyno tells me it was the right thing to do. Probably the cheapest power gain I could have done. Starts easier, runs cooler and I bet economy is better too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrikeZero Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Thanks for the follow-ups! I have enough components left over to try both methods after I remove the VFRness. @mello dude: Your plates and instructions are amazing1. While I will miss the popping on decel, this cleaned up some clutter and made some space all around the engine. @Zarquon: I may need to get an injector clean done on mine. I have no idea what the mileage on mine is due to a blank odometer. When I bought it 12 years ago, it was a total rat machine. I only did the bare minimum to keep it going. Shameful I know. I want to do all of the simple maintenance jobs myself then haul it down to shop for the bigger tasks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Zarquon Posted February 27, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted February 27, 2019 I recently did an injector clean after 19 years and 50000km. My but dyno tells me it was the right thing to do. Probably the cheapest power gain I could have done. Starts easier, runs cooler and I bet economy is better too. First tank full after the clean gave 47mpg taking it eazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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