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Oh so shiny 2000


UpArrrow

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Personally, I find that having just one foot firmly on the ground is far more stable than trying to tip-toe between two feet during a stop. 

Just rest your body on one thigh on the seat before you come to a stop, you will have much firm footing than tip-toe between both feet. 

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7 hours ago, cat0020 said:

Personally, I find that having just one foot firmly on the ground is far more stable than trying to tip-toe between two feet during a stop. 

Just rest your body on one thigh on the seat before you come to a stop, you will have much firm footing than tip-toe between both feet. 

 

By habit and preference I do tend to go into neutral at stop lights, which necessitates use of both feet to get back in gear and underway.   I know most advise against that practice.     

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1 hour ago, UpArrrow said:

By habit and preference I do tend to go into neutral at stop lights, which necessitates use of both feet to get back in gear and underway. 

 

I'm not sure why both feet are required. Once stopped, just switch to the right foot down.

 

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On ‎2‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 7:53 PM, UpArrrow said:

My boot tips barely touch the ground on this bike.  I've got to do something to get a bit lower.  I'm unwilling to use a lowering link or invest $$$$$ into a shock set up so that leaves shaving the seat as my option.   I don't need to ride this bike more than 1 hr per sitting  so comfort isn't paramount.

 

There is a factory seat in nice condition listed locally - $80 is sellers bottom dollar.   I could keep it as an unmolested backup in case I decide to move the bike due to fit issue.   

Grab it, or are these a dime a dozen?   

I am very short in stature with a 29'' inseam which leaves me on the tips of my toes (barely) at stop lights.  I hate that.  I bought a Soupy's  adjustable lowering link and I lowered my 5th Gen an 1 3/16"s.  I know I'm giving up lean clearance, but that's okay; I'm no Freddie Spencer.

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Amazing bike.  A year and a half ago I purchased an '01 with just under 12,000 miles on it and in situation similar to yours because it was also in amazingly well-preserved condition (for a 17+ year old bike).

 

This like-new '01 was my second low-mileage 5th Gen VFR purchase (the other was a '99 with less than 19,000 miles).  I mention this because with both of these bikes I found that great condition did not also mean great maintenance and upkeep.  Both of my 5th Gens had the original fork oil in the forks, probably the original brake fluid (maybe "topped off" at some point, but obviously never flushed and replaced), same story for the hydraulic clutch's master and slave cylinders, also both bikes still had their original coolant thermostats.  And the list of "deferred items" went on from there.

 

Just saying congrats on the beautiful bike, but beware, those good looks can hide a lot of things that really need to be addressed.

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x2 on what @GreginDenver said. My low mile '98 was in a fairly similar state. I'd also suggest that you closely inspect the electrical connections, I wouldn't be surprised if the terminals were a bit skanky and in need of clean up and treatment, but if the bike has lived in UT it's entire life you may be pleasantly surprised. Also, check to see if the regulator/rectifier is the stock unit, the factory 'upgrade', or a MOSFET replacement (if you are lucky). More info in this post:

In the very least you should run 'the drill' as outlined here: https://vfrworld.com/threads/the-drill.52131/#post-579543

 

Nice looking 5th Gen. 

 

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16 hours ago, adkfinn said:

x2 on what @GreginDenver said. My low mile '98 was in a fairly similar state. I'd also suggest that you closely inspect the electrical connections, I wouldn't be surprised if the terminals were a bit skanky and in need of clean up and treatment, but if the bike has lived in UT it's entire life you may be pleasantly surprised. Also, check to see if the regulator/rectifier is the stock unit, the factory 'upgrade', or a MOSFET replacement (if you are lucky). More info in this post:

In the very least you should run 'the drill' as outlined here: https://vfrworld.com/threads/the-drill.52131/#post-579543

 

Nice looking 5th Gen. 

 

Thanks guys.  Plan on getting to these items very soon.   I've been riding it a bit - blurping the throttle for 110mph bursts is highly addictive.  

 

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1 hour ago, UpArrrow said:

Thanks guys.  Plan on getting to these items very soon.   I've been riding it a bit - blurping the throttle for 110mph bursts is highly addictive.  

 

I'm jealous, there is still a couple feet of snow in front my barn doors and it was in the teens again here last night. 

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I installed this bar set which allows about 2" up and back.  Also moved the fork tubes back down about 1/2".

 

I pulled the Givi tank bag off another Honda I'm selling.

 

I bought another OEM seat locally and it had already been shaved as deeply as can be.  Perfect for me.  

 

IMG_20190318_180139944.jpg

IMG_20190318_180155723.jpg

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6 hours ago, UpArrrow said:

I'd like to address the R/R issue fairly quickly.   Which one to buy guys?

 

Is there a thread anywhere that has links to goods purchased for updating 5th Gen?

For the 5th gen the FH020aa is fine. link - www.roadstercycle.com

 

Dont do the eyelet connection for the stator like in the linked posts above. Trouble for the asking.  Either solder or double overlap butt crimp connector - either with marine heat shrink tubing to cover the stator connection. 

I like to go over and above what Jack says at roadstercycle,........ I aways over build any charging fixes. Check my photo out... nothing is gonna die there. 

 

Other good electric component source.  http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html 

- I like the MetriPack 630 fuse holder, typically I will build it with 10ga wire. 

 

Photo just for the halibut.... 

20170506_234252-XL.jpg

 

 

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9 hours ago, mello dude said:

For the 5th gen the FH020aa is fine. link - www.roadstercycle.com

 

Dont do the eyelet connection for the stator like in the linked posts above. Trouble for the asking.  Either solder or double overlap butt crimp connector - either with marine heat shrink tubing to cover the stator connection. 

I like to go over and above what Jack says at roadstercycle,........ I aways over build any charging fixes. Check my photo out... nothing is gonna die there. 

 

Other good electric component source.  http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html 

- I like the MetriPack 630 fuse holder, typically I will build it with 10ga wire. 

 

Photo just for the halibut.... 

x2 on roadstercycle.com - I also put a FH020aa on my 5th Gen and the kit from Jack works great. I also soldered everything (if you go this route make sure to thoroughly test the stator first since you will be making a semi-permanent connection to it). 

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And here's a +1 on choosing to use the heavier gauge wire (if you're gonna do a wire-it-yourself job with an improved R/R). 

 

Honda's wire size choices on the VFR (both positive and negative) weren't the best, which made the connectors prone to overheating and melting (if even the slightest amount of corrosion developed on them), and this sometimes produced a knock-on cascade of even worse problems like stator failure. 

 

There's even a product called "The VFRness" that a lot of guys (including me) have used to improve the flow of electrons through our VFRs.

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5 hours ago, GreginDenver said:

And here's a +1 on choosing to use the heavier gauge wire (if you're gonna do a wire-it-yourself job with an improved R/R). 

 

Honda's wire size choices on the VFR (both positive and negative) weren't the best, which made the connectors prone to overheating and melting (if even the slightest amount of corrosion developed on them), and this sometimes produced a knock-on cascade of even worse problems like stator failure. 

 

There's even a product called "The VFRness" that a lot of guys (including me) have used to improve the flow of electrons through our VFRs.

Honda reduced wire gauge on and after gen 4's.

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I continue to ride this bike - what an amazingly fun machine.  I want to start amassing goodies for a mid-level service.  I have a bike tech that is going to come and work with me on it in my garage who is proficient so will be some OJT for me.   

This bike has 13.5k miles.   Has always been in Colorado and now Utah so very dry climate, nada humidity and likely never saw rain.   

List of what I want to address:

- RR as discussed here including Stator check

- Air Cleaner

- All Fluids

- Fork service

 

Everything is working well.  Shifts beautifully.   Runs at 3 bars temp.

 

Would appreciate comments as to whether it would be prudent to service the following:

 

Clutch master cylinder - rebuild kit?

Water pump 

Thermostat 

Brake master & secondary cylinders

 

Stainless brake lines are also of interest - though my aim is to enhance reliability rather than up the cool factor.   

 

 

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I have the same bike but blue, (the red ones are the slowest) bought 9 months ago 38000km then 49000km now. I have very similar bars but black.

 

I like my VFR alot. I also like my 07 Buell XB12SS :-).

 

If and when you do the thermostat (which  I think is a throttle body off job) check the housing for corrosion. You should also replace the O rings on the 4 cooling system elbows on the motor (2 are under the throttle bodies). My O rings were like black cheese and one elbo was begining to rot out. Consider a fuel injector clean and service, replace the seals (cheap).

 

My clutch slave was leaking, I replaced the seals that fixed it, I wouldn't have done them otherwise. My water pump was leaking so I replaced the cover seal now its good. Burp the air out of the cooling system when you refill it with coolant, add the right concentration of coolant mixed with deionized water.

 

Install a volt meter. Make sure your clutch switch works.

 

My bike does about 5 to 5.5 litres per 100km (42 to 47 mpg) when not pushed too much running 91 octane fuel.

 

Lube the chain.

 

Enjoy the bike.

 

 

 

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This might just be my (somewhat OCD) perspective, but if you're gonna go and refurbish the front forks (clean-out, seals, sliders, oil), maybe you should look into the Daugherty Motorsports Fork Cartridge Upgrade Kit?  http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/product/fork-cartridge-upgrade-kit-1998-2001-honda-vfr800/

 

I've done this upgrade on both of my 5th Gens, ooooooh so plush and responsive, makes the bike feel lighter somehow.

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22 minutes ago, GreginDenver said:

This might just be my (somewhat OCD) perspective, but if you're gonna go and refurbish the front forks (clean-out, seals, sliders, oil), maybe you should look into the Daugherty Motorsports Fork Cartridge Upgrade Kit?  http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/product/fork-cartridge-upgrade-kit-1998-2001-honda-vfr800/

 

I've done this upgrade on both of my 5th Gens, ooooooh so plush and responsive, makes the bike feel lighter somehow.

 

A good suggestion.  I'm leery though of investing so much money in a bike for which replacement plastics are a difficult buy.   

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