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Added a 96 4th gen to keep 91 company in garage,....

Stock silencer that has been gutted. Have read just about every post on topic and still in dark. I will post a couple of pics of existing with back cap removed. I am 3rd owner. Work was done cleanly by 1st. Cap is retained by 3 stainless Allen head screws. One pipe seems to have been removed and I assume there was a plate at tail with exit port that has been cut.

My goal would be to modify to achieve DB somewhere between this gutted can and stock. Currently this must be acting a total straight pipe as what is left has no affect. 

My plan would be to remove what is left, install a perforated tube and pack. I am thinking of a front space to allow expansion. This would be a disk with OD equal to ID of can, with 2" center hole, set back 5" from front. Perf tube into that and carry to tail. Use tail cap to center and hold all pushed to front.

? - Can the entire existing inner perf sleeve be removed by drilling/grinding the 3 rivets that are directly behind the rivets that secured the rear cap? If I go with a 2" center perf tube that will be packed then this sleeve is just weight,...

Any thoughts, info greatly appreciated!

Any science in layman's terms?

   

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I have a "97 I removed the stock can and replaced with a Delkevic can. Not loud with DB killer installed. You can get high mount or stock orientation. Stock exhaust is quiet as a church mouse. There are other cans that will fit and let the V4 music play so you can enjoy it. Do you Have a picture of your new addition? 

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I have had the 3rd gen for a few years. Did a bunch, new fork tubes, bushings, seals, head bearings, has racetech shim stack and gold. (See earlier thread.) New Pirelli angel gt. Floating rotors on front. Plastics fair. 74K miles. Will be for sale this spring. Along with or separate, extra front and rear wheels, corbin seat.

Came across 4th gen listed as "non running with fuel leak". Gambled it would be minor. Thought it would be carb rebuild. Turned out to be hose from filter to tank,...Checking and tweaking, but seems solid. Will need new rubber. Good tread but 10 years old.

 

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Still hoping for input on this and specifics on how stock can is assembled. 

Have gone ahead with gutting the already gutted can. Discovered that what I had thought were rivets securing the inner flange, or what is left,....is epoxy. Easily ground out. Thought that might free entire inner perf sleeve and partition discs. Not so. Did cut a slit in the flange of this tail piece and removed. Now clear to extract perf, thin insulation packing and guts if it not secured by some other means.

Just amusing myself with self reply,..20190108_165740.thumb.jpg.3631f8d78b8157219d7a61eacffd18bc.jpg

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This is the 1st time I've ever seen a 4th gen OEM can openend; usually they are discarded or stashed in an attic.

so I'm afraid I can be of zero help.  I can cross my fingers for you though..... :tongue: 

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Thanks for moral support,....

This thing even chopped up still weighs a lot. (IF) I can extract the now useless metal and clear a path to install a 2" diameter perf pipe that will get packed, I hope to shave some weight and get a reasonable DB tone. Basically following design of a yosh system that i had on a FZ600. 

Who knows, may be shopping for a new silencer soon. Will post progress, or lack of for any interested parties. 

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Update,...

I ground the 3 epoxy filled spots that retain rear flange. Felt entire inner sleeve should pull out. Probably could have with enough pull. Cut flange and mangled it out. Using a pipe rigged as slide hammer the rest slipped out. 

This is about half the weight. All that is left is a 6 inch tube at entry that may be double walled but has holes around its circumference and 1.5" ID.

Design idea is to have a front expansion chamber followed by perf tube and pack.

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Dear readers,.....

May be addressing an empty room?

After much reading and head scratching have decided to eliminate front reactive chamber and go straight through with 2" stainless perf tube. There is a tapered tube at entry. This was the first entry chamber. It tapers from 2.5 down to 1.5. It is perforated with .25 holes. I cut 2" off its length to allow the new perf tube to slip over the stub but without the reduced dia. Will need to figure a way to secure and center at tail.  Pack and cap.

Optimistic. Shed some weight even off an already gutted can. 

Hoping to get the perfect sound,....

20190114_183223.jpg

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Dear readers,.....
May be addressing an empty room?
After much reading and head scratching have decided to eliminate front reactive chamber and go straight through with 2" stainless perf tube. There is a tapered tube at entry. This was the first entry chamber. It tapers from 2.5 down to 1.5. It is perforated with .25 holes. I cut 2" off its length to allow the new perf tube to slip over the stub but without the reduced dia. Will need to figure a way to secure and center at tail.  Pack and cap.
Optimistic. Shed some weight even off an already gutted can. 
Hoping to get the perfect sound,....
20190114_183223.thumb.jpg.cdb7b83237e29b18145a6dda857cab74.jpg
You haven't had much response but I am watching. Good luck!

Sent from my SM-J327T1 using Tapatalk

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I got one of these gathering dust in the garage. I'm watching in case I ever put bags on my bike. Might consider shortening it a bit while you're at it. And they do make a stainless steel silencer packing material, much longer life than the glass.

 

Tim

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