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4th gen silencer

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Added a 96 4th gen to keep 91 company in garage,....

Stock silencer that has been gutted. Have read just about every post on topic and still in dark. I will post a couple of pics of existing with back cap removed. I am 3rd owner. Work was done cleanly by 1st. Cap is retained by 3 stainless Allen head screws. One pipe seems to have been removed and I assume there was a plate at tail with exit port that has been cut.

My goal would be to modify to achieve DB somewhere between this gutted can and stock. Currently this must be acting a total straight pipe as what is left has no affect. 

My plan would be to remove what is left, install a perforated tube and pack. I am thinking of a front space to allow expansion. This would be a disk with OD equal to ID of can, with 2" center hole, set back 5" from front. Perf tube into that and carry to tail. Use tail cap to center and hold all pushed to front.

? - Can the entire existing inner perf sleeve be removed by drilling/grinding the 3 rivets that are directly behind the rivets that secured the rear cap? If I go with a 2" center perf tube that will be packed then this sleeve is just weight,...

Any thoughts, info greatly appreciated!

Any science in layman's terms?

   

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I have a "97 I removed the stock can and replaced with a Delkevic can. Not loud with DB killer installed. You can get high mount or stock orientation. Stock exhaust is quiet as a church mouse. There are other cans that will fit and let the V4 music play so you can enjoy it. Do you Have a picture of your new addition? 

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I have had the 3rd gen for a few years. Did a bunch, new fork tubes, bushings, seals, head bearings, has racetech shim stack and gold. (See earlier thread.) New Pirelli angel gt. Floating rotors on front. Plastics fair. 74K miles. Will be for sale this spring. Along with or separate, extra front and rear wheels, corbin seat.

Came across 4th gen listed as "non running with fuel leak". Gambled it would be minor. Thought it would be carb rebuild. Turned out to be hose from filter to tank,...Checking and tweaking, but seems solid. Will need new rubber. Good tread but 10 years old.

 

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Still hoping for input on this and specifics on how stock can is assembled. 

Have gone ahead with gutting the already gutted can. Discovered that what I had thought were rivets securing the inner flange, or what is left,....is epoxy. Easily ground out. Thought that might free entire inner perf sleeve and partition discs. Not so. Did cut a slit in the flange of this tail piece and removed. Now clear to extract perf, thin insulation packing and guts if it not secured by some other means.

Just amusing myself with self reply,..20190108_165740.thumb.jpg.3631f8d78b8157219d7a61eacffd18bc.jpg

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This is the 1st time I've ever seen a 4th gen OEM can openend; usually they are discarded or stashed in an attic.

so I'm afraid I can be of zero help.  I can cross my fingers for you though..... :tongue: 

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Thanks for moral support,....

This thing even chopped up still weighs a lot. (IF) I can extract the now useless metal and clear a path to install a 2" diameter perf pipe that will get packed, I hope to shave some weight and get a reasonable DB tone. Basically following design of a yosh system that i had on a FZ600. 

Who knows, may be shopping for a new silencer soon. Will post progress, or lack of for any interested parties. 

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Update,...

I ground the 3 epoxy filled spots that retain rear flange. Felt entire inner sleeve should pull out. Probably could have with enough pull. Cut flange and mangled it out. Using a pipe rigged as slide hammer the rest slipped out. 

This is about half the weight. All that is left is a 6 inch tube at entry that may be double walled but has holes around its circumference and 1.5" ID.

Design idea is to have a front expansion chamber followed by perf tube and pack.

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Dear readers,.....

May be addressing an empty room?

After much reading and head scratching have decided to eliminate front reactive chamber and go straight through with 2" stainless perf tube. There is a tapered tube at entry. This was the first entry chamber. It tapers from 2.5 down to 1.5. It is perforated with .25 holes. I cut 2" off its length to allow the new perf tube to slip over the stub but without the reduced dia. Will need to figure a way to secure and center at tail.  Pack and cap.

Optimistic. Shed some weight even off an already gutted can. 

Hoping to get the perfect sound,....

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Dear readers,.....
May be addressing an empty room?
After much reading and head scratching have decided to eliminate front reactive chamber and go straight through with 2" stainless perf tube. There is a tapered tube at entry. This was the first entry chamber. It tapers from 2.5 down to 1.5. It is perforated with .25 holes. I cut 2" off its length to allow the new perf tube to slip over the stub but without the reduced dia. Will need to figure a way to secure and center at tail.  Pack and cap.
Optimistic. Shed some weight even off an already gutted can. 
Hoping to get the perfect sound,....
20190114_183223.thumb.jpg.cdb7b83237e29b18145a6dda857cab74.jpg
You haven't had much response but I am watching. Good luck!

Sent from my SM-J327T1 using Tapatalk

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I got one of these gathering dust in the garage. I'm watching in case I ever put bags on my bike. Might consider shortening it a bit while you're at it. And they do make a stainless steel silencer packing material, much longer life than the glass.

 

Tim

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I have been watching as well, keep up the good work

 

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Not much to report.

Wanted to have short tube at tip to pass through the tail piece so the perf pipe will not be visible. Too cheap to buy, so fabricating from .045 stainless. Once this is welded, will tack to perf. 

Was thinking of cutting the can shorter, at least 1.5" to eliminate the 6 original rivet holes. I had thought the can was stainless, but now realize it is chrome steel. Cutting will leave edge raw, how to keep from rusting,....?

May leave it, for path of least hassle.

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Back at it.

Ready to assemble.

Welded short fabricated tube to the perf, then added a ring as a stop. The stop ring will go against the inside of tail cap and push tube onto the existing entry stub. The tube will extend slightly out of tail piece. I added 3 tabs to the tail cap. These will get drilled and tapped for additional screws. This is just to have a way plug 3 holes left from removing interior sleeve.

Tomorrow pack? I have some strand fiber material from "Area 9", exhaust systems in California. 

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On 1/24/2019 at 7:51 AM, scottbott said:

looking interesting

 

But it still looks heavy!  Probably will rumble nicely, though.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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Should have checked weight before and after. Assume I have less metal with perf tube than what I extracted,....But with packing material may be close to a gutted mod.

This spanned too many days, but finally complete and ready to test. Warm day on New England, so hope to have chance to assemble and run!

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An 4th gen OEM exhaust weighs in at 6.1 kilo

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1st run.

Very pleased.

May be a little on loud side, but got that bark. 

Tryed DB test with app on phone. Compared stock 3rd gen to this can on 4th gen. 

I had expected;

1 - to see meter climb in relation to rpm.

In fact remained relatively the same to 6K rpm.

What I now surmise is that each exhaust wave is the same as 1 person clapping. A single clap may be 75db, continuous clapping may seem louder but actually is no greater in DB? 

2 - that this mod can would show much higher DB on meter. In fact there was only about 5Db difference. 

Understanding now is that 10DB would equate to a doubling in sound. Or 100% greater. If true then I am now about 50% louder than stock.

Summary,...verdict out on weight compared to gutted can, but lighter than stock. Slightly reduced noise than full gut, but with nice tone. Still a straight full flow exhaust, so whatever gains that brings. Good chance to practice TIG, and seems more "professional" than a bunch of metal left in can,...

Now for some new rubber. This one must have sat for awhile. Good tread, but10 years old.

Picture would just look stock, other than the larger 2" tube peaking out.

Anyone know if video or sound recording file can be attached?

Try this,...

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I like what you've done.

 

I Was thinking about doing something similar with a vintage Suzuki 600. Beef up the noise a little but keep the factory appearance.

 

Now, I guess I better pick up tools and do it!

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Just weighed the old guts that I removed. That was 5lbs, plus whatever was removed prior? The perf tube plus packing was about 1lb. So will call new perf = to prior gut and say this is 5lb lighter??

6.2 kilo = about 14lbs 

So 30% lighter +/-

To Zarquon - I am a novice welder so 50% of my time was practice on scrape. Also spent too much time head scratching. Should be an easy day project.

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The thinking and practice has paid off. Stock look maintained and improved V4 note. 

 

Need to sound check in a tunnel or underpass!

 

Enjoy

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