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New 5th/6th/8th gen performance header now in production in USA


sfdownhill

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Another quick question while I'm thinking about it - which O2 sensor goes in which hole?

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8 hours ago, ShipFixer said:

Another quick question while I'm thinking about it - which O2 sensor goes in which hole?


The electrical diagram in the service manual shows that from the harness to the natural color O2 sensor connector is cylinders 1-2 (left rear - left front)

 

From harness to black O2 sensor connector is cylinders 3-4 (right rear - right front)

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23 hours ago, ShipFixer said:

Well...you guys suck, I ordered the Delkevic 8 inchers...

You are all cutting into my surf and bicycle budget here!  :lol:

 

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44 minutes ago, ShipFixer said:

You are all cutting into my surf and bicycle budget here!  :lol:

 

We love to help you spend money!  LOL.  At least you have your priorities right . . .  Groceries, clothes for the kids, night out with the wife, motorcycle accessories, taxes, insurance . . .  Yup, looks about right - the rest is just sissy stuff. 

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So I received the first of my exhaust stud bets today - a different part number listed by Honda as M6x22.  It's a dead ringer for the VFR stud, 35mm total length and the unthreaded section is in the same place, with equal threaded lengths on either side.  Part number is 92900-060220B.  The title on eBay was "QTY 2 NOS HONDA CRANK CYLINDER STUD BOLT 6X22 XR600 GB500 CB400 92900-06022-0B"

 

Of course, now I need the two "special nuts," but those are available in stock at Partzilla and elsewhere anyway.  

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Thanks for that find! I ordered mine and seven came in 🤬. The last one is backordered until late July. I'll order one in the morning.

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Next set of studs came in...they are the right length but have a longer unthreaded section in the middle.  Would work, but that first alternate I found is better.

 

Meanwhile...not sure when the special M6 nuts from Honda will come in.  I found an alternative though, an M6 extra tall stainless steel flange nut from Bel-Metric.  They are in Massachussetts and will ship the next business day, so...it's a race.  Delkevics get here Tuesday, frustrating to wait this long!  I may yet try to torch the originals off the studs.

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Still waiting on parts.  Tried again to separate the nuts from the studs and couldn't.  Lame...

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Should get the Honda M6 flange nuts tomorrow, and finally reassemble this thing.

 

Can't complain anywhere else :lol:

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All-Honda parts in hand...now to install!  😁

 

Definitely not touching the injectors until I receive a package with all of the seals...

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Only had time for a quick test ride, so it will be a bit before the RapidBike catches on to what's different in the back end here.  But...I mostly like it!  Only issue I have is the header plus exhaust is louder than I was hoping.  On the highway it's not too bad, but at low speed it's way up there.  If you get off the bike and stand ten feet back, at idle...quieter than you think.  Yet it is loud, so I will be going through a lot of earplugs I'm sure.

 

Performance wise, wow!  It's a positive change across the rev range, and once again the higher gears are yet more useable at low RPM with more torque.  But there is a dramatic increase above 8K RPM.  It's less that I notice the bike is faster/better so much as the RPM's climb a lot more willingly now than they did before.  I rarely push the engine that hard, so it surprised me how fast it got near redline without any intent to get there.

 

Definitely want to get the injectors cleaned soon, along with some poking at the RB so I can see how much better I can get.  Going without the head shield for now...would need to be trimmed to go back in, it's only a little warmer on my ankle through my Sidis, and I would want to sand and repaint the thing anyway.

 

One install note, for those who haven't done theirs yet.  Despite @sfdownhill 's warnings and my double-checking, once everything was torqued my header was in contact with the frame, on the right side near the swingarm pivot.  I had to loosen the header nuts, hammer in some wood wedges, and then torque down.  I've included a photo below of the area in question, post-test ride when I was verifying I still had space there. 

 

Again...I was not in contact all along until after everything else was bolted in so, you may want to check yours!  It's a sharp corner that's not obvious unless you really get under the bike to look, or feel in between to check.

 

Second install note/exhaust header trivia.  Those extra tall flange nuts I received from Belmetric are very close to the Honda special M6 nuts for the studs, and I used the other Honda part ones that were identical to the VFR part number (which I have not received yet).  So if you are still waiting for either part, there are some lifelines out there.

 

1A627B44-D28F-488F-833B-25DE340C3009.jpe

 

A28963B0-E3CB-44F9-97F4-BD5E41B49046.jpe

 

11CEC350-8B7F-4C56-A904-2C6E7482C621.jpe

 

C330B647-62F4-49B2-8E88-188FCC933FA1.jpe

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I had to do the same with wood for spacers. Just the nature of going the custom route - some fitting and adjusting is to be expected. 

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1 hour ago, ducnut said:

When you buy bazookas for mufflers, it’s not going to be quiet. 😁

Well, it's not like I'm totally surprised here... 😄

 

I have a couple options.  Delkevic makes a "quieter" baffle that drops the sound 1-3 dB, or so it says.  I can also try their next-shortest increment and buy two 13" tri-oval mufflers from them, but I think they might stick out too far back.  My options for rotating the exhaust splitter further forward/up are kind of limited, so it is what it is.  

 

Will almost certainly at least go for the quieter baffles, but for now...been too long without the bike!

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If anyone is interested I have a brand new set of headers to suit a Gen 6 that haven’t been fitted thanks to a change in my circumstances. The headers have three ports for O2 sensors and they were passivated as part of the manufacturing. 

 

What I’m offering:

I’m chasing full new price for the headers, the rest I’ll include for no additional cost. 
 

These are located in Australia, but I’m happy to ship worldwide at purchaser’s cost. 
 

Please PM for more details or to make an offer. 

885C464B-E9B3-4B75-A44C-65CD93AF758F.jpeg

6312146D-6BDB-4E6D-A943-79EA86AB1616.jpeg

37AAB62A-A96D-436F-89AD-C8741C666690.jpeg

FAE75BCD-3CA3-4A3C-AB8F-CCD17D641358.jpeg

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On 6/14/2021 at 4:17 PM, ShipFixer said:

Well, it's not like I'm totally surprised here... 😄

 

I have a couple options.  Delkevic makes a "quieter" baffle that drops the sound 1-3 dB, or so it says.  I can also try their next-shortest increment and buy two 13" tri-oval mufflers from them, but I think they might stick out too far back.  My options for rotating the exhaust splitter further forward/up are kind of limited, so it is what it is.  

 

Will almost certainly at least go for the quieter baffles, but for now...been too long without the bike!

I have Leovince pipes and they are straight through but "reasonably" unoffensive and sound just wonderful. just don't seem to have the harshness of other mufflers.

 

though they are a bit louder than they were with the EM cat installed. Not quiet really but still not annoying as far as I can tell.  deep and melodic without being raspy and harsh.

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10 hours ago, lplplplp said:

I have Leovince pipes and they are straight through but "reasonably" unoffensive and sound just wonderful. just don't seem to have the harshness of other mufflers.

 

though they are a bit louder than they were with the EM cat installed. Not quiet really but still not annoying as far as I can tell.  deep and melodic without being raspy and harsh.

 

I would say the same for my Remus cans - a bit louder with the cat gone,  but not harsh. 

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On 6/19/2021 at 8:30 AM, Cogswell said:

 

I would say the same for my Remus cans - a bit louder with the cat gone,  but not harsh. 

bit loud just off idle and low RPM, resonating in my helmet a bit but smooths out and much less noticeable after that.

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On 6/22/2021 at 12:19 AM, lplplplp said:
On 6/18/2021 at 12:30 PM, Cogswell said:

 

bit loud just off idle and low RPM, resonating in my helmet a bit but smooths out and much less noticeable after that


Less noticeable after that because the decibels just get further and further behind you as you twist your right wrist - ha!

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6 hours ago, sfdownhill said:


Less noticeable after that because the decibels just get further and further behind you as you twist your right wrist - ha!

and the deafening wind noise

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For sure, it's better at speed! 😁 I received the "quieter baffles" but I'm in Virginia for work through most of next week.  I'm going to give them a shot and see if it's better.

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On 5/29/2021 at 9:10 AM, ShipFixer said:

Waiting to see how it works out for you guys before I shift to a wideband on mine 😂

 

Do they make sensors with right angle connectors by any chance?  Gonna go look...

 

Mr ShipFixer,

 

I think this might be what you were waiting for.  My delay in putting any miles on this with the wideband O2 has been a function of other work I was doing on it that had its own set of problems.  But, finally got that resolved and now going down the road with about 100 miles on it.  The first pic is of how the O2 sensor wire has survived so far.  Seems fine.  I think the pigtail on it would be sufficient to clear the chain, tho if I pushed it hard that way, it would just barely brush it.  So, in the pic I took a piece of scrap solid core copper wire to create a stay, bolting it to Seb's center stand stop.  That kept it far enough from the chain that I was not able to push to the chain over against it.  For the time being it's experimental - maybe not necessary, will see.  If it helps, this is not a new chain - has about 13,000 miles on it, but is well maintained.  I suppose as they near end of life they could get more side to side play and potentially rub the wire - time will tell.

 

In the other photo, I had some clearance issues with the lower OEM O2 sensor.  There may be some variance from unit to unit - but in my case the O2 sensor fouled the fairing.  It was significant enough that the fairing could only just barely be attached to the center stand bolt even if bent around it.  (It would have eventually cracked, so that was quickly ruled out).  The apparent choices were to trim the faring, find a shorter O2 sensor or trim the O2 bung.  I didn't want to alter the fairing and AFAIK there are no "short" O2 sensors available, so I went the route of trimming the bung.  You can see in the photo that the lower one is about 1/2 the length of the other.  It took about 1/2 hour with a Dremel cutoff wheel and then a file to clean up the face of it and make sure it was square with the centerline of the bung.  It seems to work fine.  Others may not have this issue - YMMV.

 

Anyway - with the MTB now the AFR target can be controlled and the module will adjust fueling to it on the fly.  There's no way of separating the effects of the headers from the RB/MTB module, but my seat of the pants dyno tells me that the mid range of about 5,500 to 9,000 revs is more responsive and fun to ride.  IIRC when Yaman remoted in and looked over the tune, I could see that there was some ignition advance dialed in through that range (I need to go back in and spend more time looking it over, but at this point I just want to ride and enjoy it) so that could be another piece of the puzzle. Past about 10,000 it looked like a degree of timing was backed out.  At low throttle settings it was set to a target 13.5 AFR for fuel economy and higher throttle settings to 12.  That intuitively seems like a good compromise.  Regardless, it runs great - very happy with it.  Anyway, it's been a long journey time will tell how durable it all is as some miles add up on it. 

 

Cheers

 

 

 

 

DSC06638.JPG

 

 

DSC06636.JPG

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