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New 5th/6th/8th gen performance header now in production in USA


sfdownhill

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Wish they'd allow us to return the restrictive filter for the new one; I have one taking up space on a shelf. No sense to run it over stock.

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So, silly question. Is the big mouth K&N worth it over a piper cross?

 

Right now I have a gently used small mouth K&N in my toolbox and a pipercross in the bike (it's a long story). Don't know that either made a lick of difference, but I had been led to believe the piperX flows a little more air than the stock and smaller K&N. Am I wrong in that assessment?

 

Just thinking that getting another air filter might be a fool's errand if the difference is only slight.

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2 hours ago, MadScientist said:

I talked about this in the last thread.  Basically there is no easy horsepower in filters, we are talking the last percent and trading something to get it.

 

 

 

 

Thanks, that's what I thought. I really appreciate the confirmation, though.

 

At this point I have a new air filter,  reputed to have good flow, so I am comfortable just maintaining it going forward. One less thing to worry about.

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On our heavily built NC30’s, full on SBK builds we are running stock air-boxes and stock air filters. The only setup that nets noticeable gains (we’re talking 2.5 HP on our 80 HP 428cc engines) is fully open air boxes with either proper ram air and a sealed tank to make a big volume air box or open trumpets and an open tray. Anything K&N ish tend to not make more power than stock and cause running issues on the carb’s bikes. My engine builder is running FI too and going back to stock-ish airboxes and filters until he can find something better. Can’t do open anymore because any crash ingests dirt.


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Well the small K&N when moved to the top of the air box in my big air box mod, added 5hp, the filter is NOT restrictive, it’s location is ! 

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2 hours ago, Mohawk said:

Well the small K&N when moved to the top of the air box in my big air box mod, added 5hp, the filter is NOT restrictive, it’s location is ! 

 

Good point Mohawk. On your mod, I was impressed that the gap between the tank and the air box could flow so much air, and it certainly works well. Your ram air mechanism is cool, too - it makes sure the air supply to the filter is plentiful.

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Hi all, just wanted to let you I am working on getting the totals for passivization, bungs, center stops and shipping together. I've been trying to do this when I had the time after work but after being in Montana all last week and coming back to a full plate of work this week, it's taking me some time to gather all the data and numbers for you all. Please be patient, I'll have the totals shortly, if only this work thing didn't get in the way all the time!Insert other media

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On 3/6/2019 at 10:38 AM, MadScientist said:

I talked about this in the last thread.  Basically there is no easy horsepower in filters, we are talking the last percent and trading something to get it.

 

Edit: Found it

 

 

Thanks for reposting that Madscientist - good stuff.

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On 3/7/2019 at 5:29 AM, MooseMoose said:

So, silly question. Is the big mouth K&N worth it over a piper cross?

 

Right now I have a gently used small mouth K&N in my toolbox and a pipercross in the bike (it's a long story). Don't know that either made a lick of difference, but I had been led to believe the piperX flows a little more air than the stock and smaller K&N. Am I wrong in that assessment?

 

Just thinking that getting another air filter might be a fool's errand if the difference is only slight.

I've got the same filters, small k&n and piper cross. 

I clean 1 and put the other in while the 1st is drying . That way there is no downtime.

I wouldn't bother getting a third larger filter

 

my 2c

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Updates:

 

1 - We are waiting to hear back from Wade about how the production run is progressing - it's scheduled to be done this week.

 

2 - This past weekend we fitted prototype headers to a 6 gen. We needed to trim 5/8" off the collector exit, then OEM 6 gen mufflers fit great. By early next week I will mount the now-trimmed prototype to my 5 gen to recheck fitment. I'll use an OEM muffler, TBR slipon, and Staintune slipon [Using both support brackets on the Staintune to lock down positioning] to confirm that proper fitment is maintained on 5 gens after the 5/8" trim.

 

3 - We have an 8 gen loaner in our sinister clutches. Monday Duc2V4 mounted new tires while I installed speed bleeders and new brake/clutch actuation fluid to get  acquainted with the 8 gen - neither of us have one [Yet]. We will be installing a PCV on the 8 gen. One of the production run 5/6 gen headers will be converted to the 8 gen by modeling the curves of the 8 gen front primaries. Wade will build a prototype, then we'll do a baseline and dyno tune April 6.

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6 hours ago, sfdownhill said:

 

2 - This past weekend we fitted prototype headers to a 6 gen. We needed to trim 5/8" off the collector exit, then OEM 6 gen mufflers fit great. By early next week I will mount the now-trimmed prototype to my 5 gen to recheck fitment. I'll use an OEM muffler, TBR slipon, and Staintune slipon [Using both support brackets on the Staintune to lock down positioning] to confirm that proper fitment is maintained on 5 gens after the 5/8" trim.

 

5/8" shouldn't be an issue on the 5th gen. I had to trim about that much to mount my TBR pipe on my '98. Reinstalling the stock pipe, and a Scorpion were no problem. The GPR I have is very similar to the Scorpion.

 

 Thanks for the updates!

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5 hours ago, MBrane said:

5/8" shouldn't be an issue on the 5th gen. I had to trim about that much to mount my TBR pipe on my '98. Reinstalling the stock pipe, and a Scorpion were no problem. The GPR I have is very similar to the Scorpion.

 

 Thanks for the updates!

 

Hi Weirdo - it's good to hear first hand that 5/8" probably won't matter on 5 gen. If the same holds true for prototype 1, we'll just have Wade slice 5/8" off each production run header's collector exit.

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Great to hear that the 8th Gen is getting closer.

Can't wait to see what it's like.

Good work guys.

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Hi all, just wanted to give everyone an update. I finally got a lull in my work schedule and was able to get pricing and work with SFDownhill on all the costing numbers and options you have selected. On that vein, I will be sending out later today, PMs to all of you who have gave your deposit and shipping info with the information we have received. Ideally we have it all correct but that is where you will come in. Once you get the PM. please look over the info and make sure we got it right.

 

As far as the headers go, we spoke with Wade yesterday and this morning, he anticipated being able to deliver the first batch by early next week, we have no reason to doubt that will happen, so we anticipate being able to pick them up and get those that will have passivization done dropped off shortly after we take possession. I'm sure everyone is chomping at the bit as much as we are, all I can say is the last mile is the longest mile! Hard to believe this has come to fruition, let alone almost here!

 

Cheers,

D

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I just sent out PMs, if you have made your deposit and are expecting a PM regarding this first round of headers and did not get a PM from me, please PM me and let me know and I'll make sure I get yours out to you. Getting closer folks!

 

Cheers,

D

 

 

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This is nice to see.  It has been a great project, and y'all have done a good job seeing it through. But there's something to seeing the physical results that really makes it feel concrete. Satisfying.

 

I ordered gaskets last week and they're on their way. Got my shift star finally coming, too. Guess it's almost time to strip the bike down and really get in there.

 

I forget -- what's the deal with center stands? Can we remove and replace them with the headers in place, or do we have to drop the headers?   My current set (Delkovic) you have to disconnect a pipe to get at the bolt on the right side of the centerstand. Tempted to clean mine up and give it a fresh powdercoat. If I have to drop the headers to reinstall it I might do it before the exhaust.

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1 hour ago, MooseMoose said:

I forget -- what's the deal with center stands? Can we remove and replace them with the headers in place, or do we have to drop the headers? 

 

Hi MooseMoose - yes, the headers need to be removed in order to remove or install the center stand [CS]. It's the same with OEM headers. Being able to remove just one pipe on your Delkevic to remove or install the CS is a nice feature. Alas, it will not be so with the new headers.

 

Another member was asking the same question you are - a lot of us like having the CS on for touring and off for sport or track riding. I mentioned to the guy asking the question that another member here - I'm pretty sure it was BusyLittleShop [One of our resident VFR gurus with an advanced degree in the RC45] had set his VFR up with a quick release system so that he could remove and replace the CS without removing the headers. It would be great if anyone has time to search out that thread and see what it says. Now that it's come up a few times, I'll PM BusyLittleShop and see if he can offer any insight.

 

I had another thought on removability of CSs: since only the right side CS fixing bolt access is hindered by the headers, and the bolt hole for the right side fixing bolt goes all the way through the cush bracket, there might be a way to run a tap all the way through the bolt hole to clear the threads, then thread a bolt of precise length through from the center of the bike outward to a nut on the outside of the CS where the bolthead usually resides. This would allow removal of the bolt without removing the headers.

 

NOTE - 6 GENS HAVE REVERSE [LEFT-HAND] THREADING ON THE RIGHT SIDE CS FIXING BOLT. 6 GEN LEFT SIDE CS FIXING BOLT HAS REGULAR [RIGHT-HAND] THREADING.

ADDITIONAL NOTE - 5 GENS HAVE REGULAR [RIGHT-HAND] THREADING ON BOTH THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDE CS FIXING BOLTS.

[Please do not ask me why I'm so adamant about this or how I learned about the 5/6 gen CS bolt threading anomaly - it still stings a bit]

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