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5th Gen refurb parts list/BOM

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I have a spare 5th Gen engine, which I want to progressively refresh with most/all of the outside/peripheral components, including:

 

1) All coolant hoses*

2) Thermostat

3) Throttle body hoses

4) Throttle body boots

5) Water pump

6) Stator

7) Clutch plate/springs

8 Plugs*

9) COP conversion (maybe)

 

Bearing in mind that the engine (supposedly) has ~67,000kms on it. I intend to get compression and leakdown tests done to get a better handle on bottom end condition, and "refresh" from there. It may not need all of the above bits and pieces; the thinking is to do them all while the engine is sitting on the floor (including doing valve clearances).

 

Parts are getting fewer and further between for these, so I wouldn't mind getting as many as I can, while I can.

 

So, can anyone point me in the direction of reasonably priced parts (whether OEM or aftermarket), or alternatives (from latter-gen VFRs or other bikes) which will substitute? Preferably with live links to where the part is being sold?

 

* Already have the bulk of the radiator and other hoses (SMC 13-piece kit), but would still need any hoses that kit doesn't come with, including the throttle body hoses for a '99. Also have Iridium plugs ready to go into it.

 

Appreciate any help people can give. 

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Any water pump from 98~15 will fit.

The bottom ends on these things will see out armageddon, so you should be good there.

I picked up a full head rebuild kit, including valve seals, springs, head gaskets and all seals from here for AU$70  https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/ccmotorcycles2012

COP's I bought used from Fleabay all up cost $AU60, COP's are 2006 GSXR750 and CBR1000RR harness.

I bought Barnett's clutch plates and springs (+10%).

Stator is getting hard to find new, I only recommend Honda, if no luck a mob in Newcastle rewind them and have a great reputation with motorcycle stators.

A star shift kit from here http://www.factorypro.com/  would also be a good addition, but not essential.

Go the whole hog mate.

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I replaced my clutch friction plates a while back with 92,000 miles because it was apart and I figured it was time. I couldn't find a measurable difference between old and new thicknesses. Springs, as well. Depending on how you ride, I guess, I'm saying they don't wear too quickly. Also that the stock discs are good.

I did the AS3 on the Rad Hoses, bearing in mind they are missing the wax unit hose. Mine doesn't have one, so I was ok on that.

All the O-rings in the cooling system should be replaced as the originals are no longer rubber or round. There's 2 on top and 2 on the left (stator) side, plus the T-stat housing.

Bulk silicone 3.5mm I.D. for the throttle body vacuum tubing. There was 2 that are too tight of a bend to replace. I was concerned they would kink so I left the OE. Found on Amazon

I planned to replace the throttle body boots, but they were back ordered when I was buying parts. I didn't bother to replace them, and a liberal spritz of lube got the throttle body re-installed no problem.

I thought my water pump was leaking at the non replaceable seal, turns out it was just the cover O-ring. But now I have a brand new water pump in there, so I should be good for a while.

There's a shop here in the USA that rewinds stators, and I had mine done several years ago. Still going strong, but I had to replace my already replaced R/R.

I did the COP conversion, and I am happy with it. Just be careful if you decide to trip the mounting tabs off the airbox after.

I added a crankcase breather filter and eliminated the hose to the airbox, just because it looks cool (and tended to spit oil into my airbox).

 

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Fantastic replies guys! Much appreciated.

 

I'll pick through that and grab a pile of bits and pieces. Great note on the bulk 3.5mm ID for the throttle body tubing. ISTR the post about a couple of the tubes having really tight bends, so if they are OK, I'll leave those and replace the rest.

 

I think I got the brand of rad hoses I bought wrong (they're still in the pack). But they are the "cheaper" silicon ones, so they should be OK for a while.

 

The O rings will be interesting. Where did you guys pick those up? Or are they just generic things of a certain size.

 

I'll prob. send the stator off for preemptive re-winding. Reg/Rec was replaced (mosfet) last year, along with a VFRNess and active cooling ('cos I could...Just 'cos I'm paranoid, doesn't mean they aren't out to get me! 😉 ).

 

Along with the spare engine, I also have spare rads, and two replacement oil coolers (3-row from the Jap-spec RC49 Police bike, and a 4-row from an SP2).

 

Reckon I'll be good to go when I get the rest of the stuff together. Again, really appreciate the help.

 

This is why I hang around forums like this!

 

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+ 1 on what Buzzner said about O rings. 

Mine were crap at 100,000km, Honda ones are cheap. 

Injector reduild is also recommended, new seals and clean/flow matched cost me $120. 

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Oh yeah, I did injectors as well. Not sure the conversion, but clean and flow match with new O-rings was $92 USD and $12 return shipping.

I did the fuel filter too, but probably didn't need to. It's a huge hassle, and if you don't have rust in the tank you should probably be ok. I was; I cut it open and looked and it was clean.

Ron Ayers parts fiche page on water pump. #9 (two of them) and #8 are the joints that link up the water jacket to the hoses. O-rings are #18 (Need 2) and #16. Also the t-stat housing with t-stat #2 and O-ring #17

 

What remains of the O-rings in the water joints:

CE10ABC5-E2DB-4870-98DC-2998517377AA.jpeg

Look at the right side of the throttle body; I reused the OE hoses as the bends were too tight. The outer diameter on the blue hose is larger and took some effort to get them to slide on up against the larger port. And I forgot the other size is 8mm inner diameter. I ordered a foot of that and had plenty left. The 3.5mm only came in 10 foot, (I think?) so I had lots left and ended up using a length for the coolant reservoir overflow drain.

Also capped off the vacuum line to the flapper actuator.

 

B5F8C695-F073-4B1B-A6AB-A00087246C59.jpeg

 

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On 11/8/2018 at 10:29 AM, VFROZ said:

+ 1 on what Buzzner said about O rings. 

Mine were crap at 100,000km, Honda ones are cheap. 

Injector reduild is also recommended, new seals and clean/flow matched cost me $120. 

 

Just to resurrect the thread, I've just pulled the injectors from the spare engine, with the intention to send them off to get refurb'd.

 

Who did you send yours to? Or does it not matter, as long as whoever it is specialises in the work?

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Also, one other question, while I'm "on the topic".

 

In looking at part numbers for the stator, it seems that the 2000-model had an extra "voltage sensing" wire (part number 31120-MBG-D01), versus the 1999, which didn't (Part number 31120-MBG-003).

 

My spare engine is a 2000, which will eventually find it's way into my 1999 bike, when I've done all of the refurb work mentioned above. I guess the question is, is there any point sending off the 2000-model stator for rewinding (given that that engine isn't in the bike/being used)? Will the presence of the extra sensing wire cause any issues in my bike (noting that I'm using an after-market mosfet-style reg/rec and VFRNess already)?

 

I'd have thought not, but would be keen to hear people's thoughts...

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On 11/7/2018 at 4:42 PM, VFROZ said:

Any water pump from 98~15 will fit.

The bottom ends on these things will see out armageddon, so you should be good there.

I picked up a full head rebuild kit, including valve seals, springs, head gaskets and all seals from here for AU$70  https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/ccmotorcycles2012

COP's I bought used from Fleabay all up cost $AU60, COP's are 2006 GSXR750 and CBR1000RR harness.

I bought Barnett's clutch plates and springs (+10%).

Stator is getting hard to find new, I only recommend Honda, if no luck a mob in Newcastle rewind them and have a great reputation with motorcycle stators.

A star shift kit from here http://www.factorypro.com/  would also be a good addition, but not essential.

Go the whole hog mate.

Oh, if you could also drop the actual name of the business in Newcastle that rewinds stators, that would be great. I've had no luck searching for them. The company I chased up this morning - in Newcastle - is a "large commercial refurbisher of major electrical components and generators. As such, our prices are likely to be beyond your expectations", was the response I got from them when I told them what I was after.

 

Clearly, they are not the business you were referring to...

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Injectors went to a local injector shop specialist. 

Anyone can do it. 

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Just ignore the extra wire. 

It doesn’t come from the stator.  

I bought a D01 and there was no wire. 

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1 hour ago, VFROZ said:

 

I did find those guys in another search I did...honestly didn't think they'd still be around, given the blurb on Dropbears is over 20 years old. Looks like they are though, thanks!

 

I'll dig up someone who can do the injectors.

 

As for the stator, it's an interesting one...

 

I "have" a Y2K stator, which I can re-wind and chuck in the bike. From what you're saying, it should work no worries.

 

Or...

 

I can buy a new 1999 stator, which I see listed as in stock (whereas the Y2K one is listed as "unavailable".

 

Appreciate the help!

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I've never been sure if the early stator fits the 00/01.

I know the 6G stator up to 06 fits the 00/01.

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I thought the "voltage sensing wire" was on the R/R not the stator?

My injector cleaner was here in USA (as was the stator rewinding), so you're much better off finding a local.

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1 hour ago, BuzznerSuntrusts said:

I thought the "voltage sensing wire" was on the R/R not the stator?

 

Correct, stator always just had the 3 leads

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On 12/10/2018 at 5:03 AM, thtanner said:

 

Correct, stator always just had the 3 leads

 

TBH, it probably wouldn't make much difference in my case anyway, as I have an aftermarket mosfet style Reg/Rec.

 

One thing that makes things interesting, is that the stator part numbers are different for the '99 and '00 bikes.

 

1999: 31120-MBG-003

2000: 31120-MBG-D01

 

I think that's where the confusion (on my part) stemmed from.

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On 12/10/2018 at 3:33 AM, BuzznerSuntrusts said:

I thought the "voltage sensing wire" was on the R/R not the stator?

My injector cleaner was here in USA (as was the stator rewinding), so you're much better off finding a local.

No worries. Problem is, actually finding one where I live (Canberra). From what I gather, there's only one business in the place (a small city of ~300,000 people) who has the machinery necessary to clean/flow test injectors...Talk about a captive market.

 

Got in touch with a bloke in Sydney (~3 hours up the road by car). Turns out that not only can he do them, but if I post them in the next day or so, he should be able to clean/test them, and bring them down with him when he visits in-laws here in Canberra (~10 minutes from my place) on the 23rd. Bonus!

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