TFI FUEL CONTROLLER BY DOBECK PERFORMANCE vs Power Commander

[RossR]

Hi,  Has anyone ever used this EFI controller on a 5th Gen? It costs a lot less than Power Commander, and the website claims that it is very simple to set up.   Dobeck Performance  are in Montana, and appear to be legit.

I personally have no experience with EFI mods, but it sounds interesting. No computer MAP required.

 

http://www.techlusion.com/dobeck-TFI-controller.asp

 

VFR800 specific (fits a few other Honda models as well)

http://www.tficontrollers.com/Cruiser/viewproduct.asp?pid=21

 

 

[Duc2V4]

Hmm, sounds interesting. Doing a cursory look at their site it appears that rather than having a computer to setup the tuning, they use "pots" to adjust the fueling. Just like their web site says, they make it work like a carburetor. Personally, I would do some google searching and see if you can find any customer reviews. 

ADJUSTING THE POTS

Green Fuel Pot: (functions like a fuel mixture screw and pilot jets on a carburetor)
Adjusts for the motorcycle's fuel requirements during light load operation, from idle through highway cruising speeds and steady throttle, at or below the rpm set by your rpm pot. We have found that manufacturers have generally leaned out the fuel mixtures for emissions to a specific rpm (see below). To set this pot, make sure the motorcycle is up to a full operating temperature, then while in neutral, pick a fast idle that is not easy to hold a steady rpm (V-twins 1800-2200 rpm and multiple cylinders 2500-3000 rpm), hold the throttle at that spot and then slowly and evenly turn the green pot clockwise from its minimum setting, while listening to the exhaust sound. You should hear the exhaust sound change form an irregular and uneven sound to an even and smooth one. You may also see an increase in rpm as you increase fuel, and if you continue to increase fuel past this point to where the revs start to fall back away, then you can stop and start returning the pot screw back to a point half way between where the exhaust sound first smoothed out and the point where the highest rpm starts to fall away.

Yellow Fuel Pot: (functions like an accelerator pump - needle and slide on a carburetor)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel into the fuel map whenever the throttle is opened rapidly. This pot needs to be adjusted from test riding, by performing brisk roll-ons in a specific gear, and by always starting at the exact same rpm. Try one clock position increases between roll-on tests until you can't feel any more improvement, and then go back to the last setting that improvement was noticed. Some models won't require as much fuel as others, so while increasing the yellow by one clock position increments if the motorcycle starts to decrease in throttle response, then turn the yellow back one and a half clock positions

Red Fuel Pot: (functions like a main jet on a carburetor)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel under large load conditions and is generally required when either air intake or quality exhaust system changes occur. This addition happens automatically using our unique load sensing technology, and similar to the road test procedure listed above in yellow fuel, test riding while increasing red fuel will find an optimum setting.

RPM Switch Pot:
All (except Harley/Metric V-twins) Sets the rpm that the green fuel turns off. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to 4:30 o'clock for 600cc and above multi cylinder sport bikes. Each clock position of this pot equates to about 1000 rpm's, so 4,500 rpm's would be half way between 4 and 5 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green light to go out at the chosen rpm.

[RossR]

1 hour ago, Duc2V4 said:

Hmm, sounds interesting. Doing a cursory look at their site it appears that rather than having a computer to setup the tuning, they use "pots" to adjust the fueling. Just like their web site says, they make it work like a carburetor. Personally, I would do some google searching and see if you can find any customer reviews. 

ADJUSTING THE POTS

Green Fuel Pot: (functions like a fuel mixture screw and pilot jets on a carburetor)
Adjusts for the motorcycle's fuel requirements during light load operation, from idle through highway cruising speeds and steady throttle, at or below the rpm set by your rpm pot. We have found that manufacturers have generally leaned out the fuel mixtures for emissions to a specific rpm (see below). To set this pot, make sure the motorcycle is up to a full operating temperature, then while in neutral, pick a fast idle that is not easy to hold a steady rpm (V-twins 1800-2200 rpm and multiple cylinders 2500-3000 rpm), hold the throttle at that spot and then slowly and evenly turn the green pot clockwise from its minimum setting, while listening to the exhaust sound. You should hear the exhaust sound change form an irregular and uneven sound to an even and smooth one. You may also see an increase in rpm as you increase fuel, and if you continue to increase fuel past this point to where the revs start to fall back away, then you can stop and start returning the pot screw back to a point half way between where the exhaust sound first smoothed out and the point where the highest rpm starts to fall away.

Yellow Fuel Pot: (functions like an accelerator pump - needle and slide on a carburetor)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel into the fuel map whenever the throttle is opened rapidly. This pot needs to be adjusted from test riding, by performing brisk roll-ons in a specific gear, and by always starting at the exact same rpm. Try one clock position increases between roll-on tests until you can't feel any more improvement, and then go back to the last setting that improvement was noticed. Some models won't require as much fuel as others, so while increasing the yellow by one clock position increments if the motorcycle starts to decrease in throttle response, then turn the yellow back one and a half clock positions

Red Fuel Pot: (functions like a main jet on a carburetor)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel under large load conditions and is generally required when either air intake or quality exhaust system changes occur. This addition happens automatically using our unique load sensing technology, and similar to the road test procedure listed above in yellow fuel, test riding while increasing red fuel will find an optimum setting.

RPM Switch Pot:
All (except Harley/Metric V-twins) Sets the rpm that the green fuel turns off. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to 4:30 o'clock for 600cc and above multi cylinder sport bikes. Each clock position of this pot equates to about 1000 rpm's, so 4,500 rpm's would be half way between 4 and 5 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green light to go out at the chosen rpm.

 

I also only took a quick look as I don't know much about EFI mods, but what is really interesting is that in addition to not needing a computer MAP, thay say that you can rent a diagnostic tool from them for $20 that allows you to troubleshoot and fine tune. They say that  that you do not need a dyno.

http://www.techlusion.com/dobeck-SAFR-tool.asp

I just noticed that they have a youtube channel and that may be a good starting point.

https://www.youtube.com/user/TuningHQ/playlists

 

Ahh!   I just found some Q&A on their site where they compare Power Commander and the other competition to their product.

 

http://www.techlusion.com/EFI-controllers.asp

 

http://www.techlusion.com/dobeck-FAQ.asp?#DPvsPOWERCOMMANDER

 

At this point it's all "Greek" to me until I do some study. 

 

Do these EFI modification modules really make any difference if you have a standard exhaust system?

 

Ross

 

[Duc2V4]

Whether you have a stock exhaust or aftermarket, it’s really the fueling and throttle response that these devices will make a difference with if you re not having it tuned properly. Doing the latter will get you the most power and efficiency when done by someone who knows what they’re doing. The 6 Gens are known for poor low speed throttle response issues and some have removed the air box snorkel, the flapper and the PAIR valve setup to help quell the issue. Many, like myself, have gone to either the Rabid Bike or Power Commander devices to help resolve the issue.

 

Ironically, although I have bought a Rapid Bike for my 5 Gen, it honestly runs very well without it, it’s only because I’ve changed to a catless header, larger air filter and a non California ECU, that I decided to grab the RB and run it with auto the tuning feature. Since I did the exact same with my 6 Gen, sans the ECU change, I  now have the RB on that bike as well.

[mello dude]

18 hours ago, Duc2V4 said:

Whether you have a stock exhaust or aftermarket, it’s really the fueling and throttle response that these devices will make a difference with if you re not having it tuned properly. Doing the latter will get you the most power and efficiency when done by someone who knows what they’re doing. The 6 Gens are known for poor low speed throttle response issues and some have removed the air box snorkel, the flapper and the PAIR valve setup to help quell the issue. Many, like myself, have gone to either the Rabid Bike or Power Commander devices to help resolve the issue.

 

Ironically, although I have bought a Rapid Bike for my 5 Gen, it honestly runs very well without it, it’s only because I’ve changed to a catless header, larger air filter and a non California ECU, that I decided to grab the RB and run it with auto the tuning feature. Since I did the exact same with my 6 Gen, sans the ECU change, I  now have the RB on that bike as well.

Hey Duc2V4.... did you change your cams to 49 state? - Or maybe that's a '98/'99 job only?

[Duc2V4]

3 hours ago, mello dude said:

Hey Duc2V4.... did you change your cams to 49 state? - Or maybe that's a '98/'99 job only?

I have not changed the cams. Not sure if it is a 98-99 only thing. Might find out the hard way when I pop in the non Cal ECU 😉