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Connector gets hot!


jstehman

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Yep, that's all the way I understand it... the SH847 - a series r/r - should cause the stator and all associated wiring to run cooler. As an added bonus, it also benefits from running lower draw accessories (LED headlights for example) because it doesn't make the juice that must be converted to heat. 

 

Is there something I'm missing, or are you concerned about the EMF backfeed issue? I understand the potential, but it seems to be a non-issue in practice. In any case, it would seem to me to be more of a concern to any attached electronics than to the stator: noise in attached signal wires and the like.

 

EDIT: Apologies to @jstehman for going off on a bit of a tangent... if you'd like we could take it elsewhere, but it may be of interest.

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2 hours ago, Marvelicious said:

Is there something I'm missing, or are you concerned about the EMF backfeed issue?

 

Oh, that's not for me to be concerned about, but for the series regulator engineers! It's just something they have to take into account when designing one.

 

And yes, sorry for the tangent as well. No, you do not need to instantly get a SH847 if your connector is failing, but it is something nice to plan for, and do during down time as a long-term fix.

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@thtanner

So... this is funny... I was initially skimming this thread on my phone and somehow I managed to think that you said the series regulator shortened the life of the stator. In various threads around the net, I've seen a couple of people claim that, so this whole time I've been trying to get to the bottom of what gave you that impression...

 

The evidence is starting to pile up: it's time to break down and get glasses or LASIK. :blink:

 

Anyhow, apparently we agree... 

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Well, I changed out the crappy 30amp connector and soldered in a new inline ATC fuse holder with a 30amp fuse 12awg wire.

 

Hopefully this will last.

 

Amazing how the wire doesn't get hot..

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I'd say yea, that's fairly expected. It's not exactly the best designed wiring harness, so the load and resistance on it seems to lead to that. The stand-alone wiring for the roadstercycle kit is 8awg I believe.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, I thought all was good.

The wire is still getting a little warmer than I like.

I should have cut out the small plug while the harness was out and just replaced that whole run of wire to the 30a fuse. I'm sure it's just as burnt up and corroded as the old fuse holder

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Hello Everyone --I just ran into the same problem again since I changed out the fuse holder last season  on my 2007 RWB--melted 30 amp fuse holder and burnt 14 gauge wire from small connector that was melting also --I plan on installing the new marine grade fuse holder with 12 gauge wire and cut out the other little connector thats melting too and replace that 14guage wire with 12 gauge, same as the fuse holder then install the new fuse holder inline--what do you guys think about that? BTW, my RWB only has 16k miles on it.

Any advice is appreciated!MELTED.thumb.jpg.33d1a3281df13cf29dd92cd2be6d4290.jpgMELTED2.thumb.JPG.dba3e4f4db97454afdcddd2b24468414.JPG

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For any fuse holder use a MetriPack 40 amp as in the link below., get the 12 gauge. -- 

I like to build up my own with 10 gauge.. if that is an option, but you need a very good crimper. 

http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html

 

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5 minutes ago, mello dude said:

For any fuse holder use a MetriPack 40 amp as in the link below... If you dont want to build your own, 

get the 12 gauge. --  I do build my own and use 10 gauge wiring. 

http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html

 

Im trying to understand what you're saying.

Youre telling us to use a 40 amp fuse?

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Is there any drawback to just eliminating the small connector?

 

It looks like Honda made it plug and play for ease of assembly on the line.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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8 minutes ago, jstehman said:

Is there any drawback to just eliminating the small connector?

 

It looks like Honda made it plug and play for ease of assembly on the line.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

No reason for it to be there really, the fuse is the important part anyways. 

Bypassing the stock wiring to the regulator would go a long way to avoid the weak stock wiring, though. After he repairs this, it would be on my list. In fact, if I were to buy another pre-2014 VFR it would be the absolute first thing I did to it. SH847 + roadster wiring kit

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On 10/23/2018 at 1:34 PM, megatronousprime said:

Im trying to understand what you're saying.

Youre telling us to use a 40 amp fuse?

No... fuse holders are "rated" for expected load.. So 40 amp could handle 40.... it's the construction how the holder is built. It's not what fuse to use in the holder.

But think overkill.... use the OEM spec 30 amp fuse in the holder.. and then you can expect less chance of an issue or melting.

 

I have had zero issues with the MetriPack holders I have used... in my own bikes and one's I have fixed. - The one in your picture I would put money on that it will do a melt it job.. -I don't know what is going on in the picture but it's ugly, ugly... you have more than a fuse problem going on.

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I eliminated the small connector.

Cold start high idle battery voltage is 14.1v @2000RPM

13.6ish @1200RPM

Cooling fan running brings it down to 12.7v and will slowly drop if the fan runs continuous while sitting idle.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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