jstehman Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 This connector by the battery gets super hot! I'm guessing there's a lot of resistance in there. Should I try cleaning the contacts or just change it out for something beefier? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted September 25, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 25, 2018 Photo plz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thtanner Posted September 25, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 25, 2018 The one with the 30A fuse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 Sorry I thought I attached the picture in the first post The smaller wire gets so hot I can't hold it for more than a second or so Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MarkDetroit Posted September 25, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 25, 2018 Change it out with a new 30A fuse holder. You won't be successfull if you just try and clean the contacts. I'm surprised it's lasted this long. Likely other grounds and connections need maintenance also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 Why did Honda decrease the wire thickness? To save a nickel on wire? I think that should have been fixed along with the original wiring recall..Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted September 25, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 25, 2018 I have a '99 and my 30a fuse holder was very toasty. I replaced it with a 30a breaker from RoadsterCycle.com instead of another fuse holder. The breaker (available from many other sources) has studs and nuts to secure ring terminals as opposed to female terminals to accept blade fuses. Those just wear out. They do. They get looser and looser over time and then the electrikery starts arcing and melting the plastic surrounding it. Eventually the whole thing melts down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 It looks like most of the common automotive inline blade style fuse holders have 12 gauge wire. Is that going to be thick enough? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreginDenver Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Installing a VFRness will take the load off that part, and it'll help your Regulator/Rectifier and Stator last longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thtanner Posted September 26, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 26, 2018 16 hours ago, GreginDenver said: Installing a VFRness will take the load off that part, and it'll help your Regulator/Rectifier and Stator last longer. I respect the guy for making the VFRness, but now it's more of a band-aid compared to a SH847/FH020AA upgrade w/ direct wiring than anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreginDenver Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 21 minutes ago, thtanner said: I respect the guy for making the VFRness, but now it's more of a band-aid compared to a SH847/FH020AA upgrade w/ direct wiring than anything. Just trying to offer a solution that focuses on exactly the weak point in the VFR electrical system being discussed in this thread. When I offer a more comprehensive solution (one that goes above and beyond the exact scope of the issue being discussed) I usually get blow-back or dismissal, usually related to the price of what I'm recommending. So in this case I chose to recommend the cheapest, most tightly focused and expeditious solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 I am thinking a 30 amp fuse with 10awg wire. And Im not sure exactly what the VFRarness is but I thought most of the 6th gen wiring issues were resolved by 2007 models?Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MarkDetroit Posted September 27, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2018 1 hour ago, jstehman said: I am thinking a 30 amp fuse with 10awg wire. And Im not sure exactly what the VFRarness is but I thought most of the 6th gen wiring issues were resolved by 2007 models? I just checked and I used a 12 awg wire 30A fuse holder when I did mine 5 years ago and it has held up well. A 10 awg will be ok too. You are right - most of the electrical issues were resolved starting with the 2006 models and adding the VFRness is an over-kill, (IMO). Cleaning contacts & improving the grounds made a huge difference for my 2006. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thtanner Posted September 27, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2018 5 hours ago, GreginDenver said: Just trying to offer a solution that focuses on exactly the weak point in the VFR electrical system being discussed in this thread. When I offer a more comprehensive solution (one that goes above and beyond the exact scope of the issue being discussed) I usually get blow-back or dismissal, usually related to the price of what I'm recommending. So in this case I chose to recommend the cheapest, most tightly focused and expeditious solution. But it's a wasted effort, when the regulator will need swapped eventually. Even with a VFRness, the stock regulator will fail. The SH847 increases stator life dramatically, so even goes above beyond the scope of the solution on offer. In short, why use the band-aid when there's a better, more complete, solution? It's wasted $ at that point that could be put towards the regulator and wiring upgrade. Think future, not just the now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 Just trying to offer a solution that focuses on exactly the weak point in the VFR electrical system being discussed in this thread. When I offer a more comprehensive solution (one that goes above and beyond the exact scope of the issue being discussed) I usually get blow-back or dismissal, usually related to the price of what I'm recommending. So in this case I chose to recommend the cheapest, most tightly focused and expeditious solution. It comes down to a fundamental principle of online forums :You're damned if you do and you're damned if you don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Marvelicious Posted September 27, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2018 14 hours ago, thtanner said: But it's a wasted effort, when the regulator will need swapped eventually. Even with a VFRness, the stock regulator will fail. The SH847 increases stator life dramatically, so even goes above beyond the scope of the solution on offer. In short, why use the band-aid when there's a better, more complete, solution? It's wasted $ at that point that could be put towards the regulator and wiring upgrade. Think future, not just the now. 100% Agree. The VFRness is a pretty good band-aid, but a series regulator with a heavier charging harness is a surgeon stitching up the wound! More expensive, but I know which one I trust to stop the bleeding! 7 hours ago, Auspanglish said: It comes down to a fundamental principle of online forums : You're damned if you do and you're damned if you don't. Eh, sign me up to be damned as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 So the R/R is problematic even on the 07? And should I just go ahead and wire up a battery meter while I'm changing out the 30amp connector? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thtanner Posted September 27, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2018 7 minutes ago, jstehman said: So the R/R is problematic even on the 07? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Unfortunately yes, while not as bad as some of the earlier units, it isn't as good (and as long lasting) as the modern units currently available. The tech in the newer SH847 for example actually lengthens stator life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 Im guessing that's not a bolt on replacement?Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thtanner Posted September 28, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2018 It's fairly strait forward as you only have to splice the 3 stator wires to the new connector (everything you need is included.) The rest is just connecting the battery cable to the rectifier and swapping that out. There's an adapter plate to make the regulator mount in the stock position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MarkDetroit Posted September 28, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2018 7 hours ago, jstehman said: So the R/R is problematic even on the 07? And should I just go ahead and wire up a battery meter while I'm changing out the 30amp connector? You've got a great looking RWB! I don't know how many miles there on it but just one toasty looking fuse holder does not mean you need a new R/R! If it were my decision I'd change out the fuse holder, check and upgrade a few connectors and grounds and add an easy way to check voltage. The original OEM R/R should be good for well more than 35k+ miles with normal bike maintenance & monitoring. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 Thanks! Good to hear about the regulator. Kind of deja Vu with Honda and their connectors.. The R/R connector was the first one I hard wired on my 82 Magna. I need to get that connector changed out soon.. it's pretty scary how hot that thing gets. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 So the R/R is problematic even on the 07? And should I just go ahead and wire up a battery meter while I'm changing out the 30amp connector? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk See the recent thread on whether the 6.5 gen's electrical gremlins have been exorcised. In short, no. Better but not fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Marvelicious Posted September 28, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2018 22 hours ago, thtanner said: ...The tech in the newer SH847 for example actually lengthens stator life. I've seen that mentioned in a couple of places randomly, but only anecdotally. I admit, I'm no electronics expert, but I'd like to think I'm better versed than the average guy, and my understanding of the system is that it should do quite the opposite. I've read a few threads in various places where people demonstrated their stators to be running cooler with a series regulator, which should indicate less stress. Do you have any supporting data? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thtanner Posted September 28, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2018 In short, less draw from the stator, thus reducing heat. Here's some general info on the technology itself. https://www.dimensionengineering.com/info/switching-regulators Also another helpful quote I found Quote a series type regulator allows current to flow from the alternator/generator, until the limit is reached and it switches off the semiconductors. the load on the alternator coils is reduced, less heat is evolved. one issue is dealing with the back EMF generated in the alternator coils when the current is abruptly switched off. you have to somehow block the volatges well into the KV range. they only draw as much current from the alternator as required. a shunt type regulator allows current to reach a certain limit, then shunts or shorts the output to ground. this places a high load on the alternator windings, and the excess power is leaked away as heat. lots of heat. they are much simpler to design, have no issue with back EMF, but do place the alternator under full load all the time. the best way to minimise heat is to use as many accessories as the generator/battery can handle. then the regulator doesnt have to shunt so much power to ground. shunt style has been the defacto standard for many decades now. only recently has the series type become available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.