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Chasing rich condition


Bruckner

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The flow (only to the starter valves) is determined by the fitting size. 

A 5mm diameter or 100mm diameter hose will make no difference. Just make sure it’s not kinked and that they are not smaller than the fittings. 

From the look of the pictures I would suggest the TBs are very dirty internally and could do with serious dismantling and cleaning. The starter valves themselves could be leaking. 

The rest of the hoses are only a vacuum with no flow. 

A vacuum hose is a vacuum hose. 

Feel free to pay silly money and buy Honda ones if it makes you more comfortable, but it is not needed. 

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FYI some people buy 'hose' and think it'll work for their application. They may have a prebent OEM and go to AutoZone and the guy there who may not be that knowledgeable sells our trusting VFR owner 'hose' not necessarily vacuum hose or neither one thinks about the prebend. So then you have either weak hose that deforms or good vacuum hose that kinks. 

Do what you like. But you're riding a motorcycle that cost at least / probably $5000 new so WTF is $2O on hoses from Honda to ensure you got the right one?

I've seen clear vinyl RV hose used for radiators, fuel line hose used for vacuum, and HoneDepot plumbing hose not rated for fuel used for fuel line. Again, your VFR do what you like. 

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I didn't say use clear vinyl hose, I said use vaccum hose.

Some people seriously get their nose out of joint when they hear a different opinion.

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I've never been a subscriber to the "OEM ONLY" theory for incidental parts like that. You can't go wrong buying OEM parts, but to act like anything else is an invitation to disaster is silly at best. There is a world of difference between going to the auto parts store and asking for a couple of feet of the correct diameter vacuum hose versus wandering into the big box home store and grabbing whatever random fish-tank hose fits.

 

You can't fix stupid: anyone uninformed enough to run RV hose for his cooling system is going to manage to do something else equally stupid with the right hose! I tend to do the courtesy of allowing for at least a basic level of competence in threads like this, at least until I see evidence to the contrary. 

 

@Bruckner

Those hoses definitely look rough in that first pic. Here's a video of the method I mentioned... I think he covers the disclaimers well enough...

 

 

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18 hours ago, VFROZ said:

I didn't say use clear vinyl hose, I said use vaccum hose.

Some people seriously get their nose out of joint when they hear a different opinion.

No one is out of joint. 

 

I was giving hypothetical examples based upon my experience and things I’ve seen working in a Yamaha/Suzuki dealership for a few years. 

 

Good luck. 

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All useful info guys, I'm usually an OEM ayatolla but my bike is a work horse not a garage queen so I'll start with a complete replacement of vacuum hoses using automotive grade hoses.

 

A few questions. Can starter valves be removed without taking the TB off? I will try to clean the best I can in-situ, including the idle adjustment plate which seems partially stuck, the adjustment screw binds much more than it used to when turning one way or another. Taking the airbox off is a piece of cake, but the TB looks much more involved especially putting back in place.

 

I see that there is a solenoid at the front right side of the airbox, seems to operate the flapper valve. Any downside to removing the whole thing out and plugging the hose coming from cylinder 2 to the air-shot valve? This would include the vacuum chamber at the front of airbox.

 

I should be able to get some work done on the bike tomorrow... thanks for all input!

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Unfortunately, you need to remove TB's to dismantle the starter valves.

You just need a very long phillips head screw driver.

I've done lots of mods to my 5G, flapper is not one of them as I can't see any advanyage to doing so, others will disagree.

If you do remove starter valves, make sure you take note of how many turns in each valve was, makes it a lot easier to synchronise later.

I've also noticed the rubber cap over the WAX unit is brocken, they sometimes give problems with the shaft seizing so I would suggest fixing it.

Good luck.

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5 hours ago, VFROZ said:

Unfortunately, you need to remove TB's to dismantle the starter valves.

You just need a very long phillips head screw driver.

 

 

OMG ! woodn't a JIS be preferable ?  🙄

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Eric the car guy has nice videos but using carburetor cleaner on rubber will dry out and crack rubber 🤦‍♂️

 

Use some spray that’s safe for rubber like a lubricant (perhaps thy lord and savior WD-40?) so you know it won’t hurt the engine or the rubber. 

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After a solid dose of mental self-persuasion, I accept the inevitable, TBs are coming off. New fast idle wax unit, injector clean, vacuum hoses replacement, and starter valve clean. May as well replace thermostat while in there.

 

Anything else worth doing?

 

Thanks all for help.

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Inspect the hoses and decide if you want to replace them. If there's ANY doubt, do it.

 

With the age of that bike, if you think you'll replace hoses pull any joints and replace o-rings as well. They could be crusty and one day you'll do a coolant change and they'll be leaking, and you'll have to yank the throttle body again anyway. They're cheap and easy to replace once the TB is off.

 

As for puling the throttle body, don't be too worried. It takes time, but now that I've had mine off a few times and, with a nice super-long screwdriver on hand, I can get the thing off or on in the same amount of time it takes me to get the airbox back on the bike.  You'll be happy with the performance boost from properly flowed injectors, too.

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Oh I hope you can help I have just replaced the thermostat and all hoses and like you my bike has the wax unit... only problem is my labels have come off, i know one hose comes from  the thermostat dont know where the other one comes from but which one goes on the top and which one goes on the bottom pipe of the wax unit please?

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Sorry I dont think I am making myself clear. There are two hoses that fit to the wax idle element ones comes from the thermostat and the other comes from an elbow that links to the water pump. I need to know where these hoses fit to the wax idle unit which one to the top connector and which one to the bottom.

 

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The wax idle unit is shaped like an upside down T. It comes from a direct line at the top of the water pump to the wax unit LHS. The one from the thermostat exits from the RHS of the thermostat and does a 180* turn (to the front) and heads toward the wax unit (right hand side connector).

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