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Chasing rich condition


Bruckner

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Hey guys, I've been having issues with my VFR for years, resulting in my not using the bike much. The engine is running rich with strong scent sticking to my riding clothes, I removed the airbox to check out the vacuum lines and found that the line going to cylinder #2 is badly damaged. Could this be causing a rich condition? I was initially pulling the box to check out the FPR, I thought maybe it was ruptured and was leaking fuel into the vacuum lines, but all seems fine on that end.

 

Thoughts please!

VFR VACUUM LINE.jpg

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OK I just replaced my plugs, all 4 old ones were only finger tight and most were not looking good, with at least 2 covered in fuel. Obviously new plugs are making the bike run a whole lot better (more healthy idle, no more interruption of power in low RPMs, great throttle control, etc), however the exhaust still smells rich. Aside from replacing the vacuum line shown above, I didn't do anything else to it, I'm afraid the fundamental issue that caused the plugs (which were admitedly more than 35,000 miles old!) to go bad is still present. Again, thoughts would be appreciated. The bike is stock aside from a K&N air filter and Leo Vince muffler, all else (including PAIR etc) is stock.

 

 

plugs vfr.jpg

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You should read through this thread here on the VFRdiscussion forums, it's recent and still active and I think it might have some information in it that could help with your problem.

 

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88125-5th-gen-bad-mileagerich-running-opinions-on-what-to-check/&tab=comments#comment-1088633

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Judging by the gunk on the intake plenums above the throttle plates, I'd bet a paycheck that if the injectors were on a bench flow device that the flow would be poor,  the spray pattern the same,  and also probably not shutting off completely.  Varnished fuel and debris in the injectors can cause the pintle not to seat properly so fuel keeps flowing in even though the ECU thinks it isn't. Also ,  a poor spray pattern doesn't atomize the fuel fully so some can go unburned.  At the state of disassembly in the photo,  it's super easy to remove the injectors - 4 small bolts removed, unplug and they lift right out.   Professional cleaning is about $25 per at RC Engineering - can be sent US Mail.  Fuel additives will never clean them to the extent that a full service can.  Definitely worth it. 

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I swear you were paid to advertise for that guy here...

 

looks like oil got on the plugs, which makes sense because you have a lot coming through your intake into the top of your throttle bodies if you see the burnt brown sections. For now, throw it back together and go ride and see if it’s still bad. 

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Thanks for quick and useful info guys!

 

I did ride the bike and it runs better than I can ever remember, though it still smells rich leading me to believe the underlying problem remains. I will ride it for longer and then move to cleaning the injectors. I didn't want to mess around with the fuel rail but looks unavoidable...

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Bad news, I took the bike out for a short ride, put some fresh gas into it, gave it the beans on the highway, then came the first red light and the motor died. Sometimes it'll hold an idle, most of the time it won't. The on/off throttle is now abrupt and exhaust smells terrible.

 

All I did was fix a punctured vacuum line and replace spark plugs. The bike is now unridable. I'll try to adjust the idle but I'm pretty sure problems are more serious.

 

Any thoughts (including sympathy) before I take it to Honda to fix?

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Here are the codes:

 

1: MAP (electrical)

2: MAP (vacuum)

9: air temperature sensor

 

These 3 would be due to my removing the airbox to inspect and fix the visible vacuum leak I had.

 

I just removed the box again to check electrical and vacuum connections to MAP sensor and IAT sensor. I can see no problem unless I routed the vacuum lines incorrectly but I doubt it.

 

I cleared the codes. If i l start it with some throttle to keep it from dying, code 2 flashes. I doubled checked connector and it looks fine. Problem must be the sensor itself or worse the wiring...

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Sounds to me like you have a major air leak happening now... I don't know why it would have suddenly gotten worse at a lights but the symptoms would make sense. Have you ever had the throttle bodies off? It almost seems like that assembly might not be seated fully. If you can get a stable idle, you could try the starting fluid leak detection trick... Fair warning: the internet forum safety police will tell you that this test is catastrophically dangerous and you will burn your bike down and probably die as well.

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I had to give up the bike to attend family duties, next time around I will inspect every single vacuum line. I have about 6' of replacement hose, I could be tempted to replace every single one. I suppose I should synch starter valves also.

 

I never pulled the throttle body, only the airbox.

 

Still not sure what caused my plugs to go so bad...

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13 hours ago, Urbanengineer said:

Time? Highly recommend plugging the pair system or air intake vent from the crankcase if possible as all that oil is over your TB intakes. 

 

Yes I actually did that yesterday, though only disconnected it, didn't yet block off the small pipe running to the left rear side of the airbox, will do that. I did notice that there was a bit of oil residue around the 2 rear velocity stacks. What does the other pipe going to the right rear side of airbox come from?

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21 hours ago, Bruckner said:

What does the other pipe going to the right rear side of airbox come from?

 

Crankcase ventilation hose/breather hose. Goes from the airbox to the top of the rear cylinders.

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On 9/23/2018 at 8:58 PM, Urbanengineer said:

Don’t do what I did. Order some nice relxmdnt hose per OEM spec, or go silicone. 

 

Just to be sure, you are advising against replacing vacuum hoses by the right size common automotive hoses? Why is that, if I may?

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16 hours ago, Bruckner said:

 

Just to be sure, you are advising against replacing vacuum hoses by the right size common automotive hoses? Why is that, if I may?

I just went to the local auto parts store and bought some replacement hose and am not sure if it’s the source of my bikes idling issue. 

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It might fit, but may deform under vacuum (or pinch during install). Going to Napa or wherever is quick and easy, but the only way to ensure it operates as Honda designed it is to use Honda OEM parts. 

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11 hours ago, VFROZ said:

It’s a vacuum hose. 

Its all it does, there is no flow. 

Any vacuum hose the right fit will do the job

There is air flow. That’s what it does.  

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