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Down for the count...R/R is the suspect


vanion2

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It finally happened.  My trusty 02 VFR started showing low voltages on the voltmeter I had installed.  Regardless of rpms it was reading 12.2V - 13V.  I pulled off the right cover, disconnected the stator connector and ran the stator tests.  .5 Ohms or less leg to leg.  Reading open leg to ground on all three legs.  Idle voltages were reading mid 20VAc and reved up to 6K rpm was showing 75VAc.  Of course the connectors were fried and then some though.  Glad to know the stator is still operating as the 02 stators are next to impossible to find.  (Is it true the 03+ stators don't fit?)

I know it isn't the battery as it was purchased at the beginning of the month when my last battery gave up the ghost and wouldn't even turn over the engine.  Thankfully this was in my garage.  When I put the new battery in is when I noticed the voltages were off.  But the problem is intermittent.  Sometimes it would read low and other times it would read fine.  Not willing to be left stranded though and with the intermittent problem progressively getting worse I decided after 66K miles and 16 years I would just go ahead and get everything cleaned up.

 

Off to wiremybike.com I went and ordered a new mosfet R/R, a new 3 pin connector kit so I can replace the charred pair that I have, and a new VFRness relay as mine was hot to the touch even when the bike had been sitting for the past couple of days.  Makes me think that my relay had failed and was shorting.  Now I am just waiting for everything to ship.

 

So Tightwad, if you read this know that I have sent you an inquiry with some questions.  Most specifically, how long will I have to wait for that R/R.  😉

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What Rectifier did you order?

 

If it's that Rick's one I see on the site, cancel the order. Abort. Abort. Abort.

 

The best bet is a SH847, or at the very least a FH020AA. With a kit from roadstercycle you bypass the stock wiring harness entirely, negating a need for a VFRness as well.

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What Rectifier did you order?
 
If it's that Rick's one I see on the site, cancel the order. Abort. Abort. Abort.
 
The best bet is a SH847, or at the very least a FH020AA. With a kit from roadstercycle you bypass the stock wiring harness entirely, negating a need for a VFRness as well.
Ok. You have my attention. I don't see a VFR specific harness though so If you know the length that is needed please educate me.

And are you saying I can get rid of the VFRness if I go this route?

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Never mind. I see the super kit package and it specs out the wiring length.

Have you done this to your VFR? Any pointers for installation? What all did you purchase yo make this straight forward?

Sorry for so many questions but I want to do it right the first time because I rely on my VFR and want to get everything needed at once so I can get her back on the road.

TIA

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I've done this to a 6th gen (that I sold) and my 5th. It is not needed on my 8th gen as they come with a smart regulator that is very similar.

 

Yes, this gets rid of the VFRness. If you currently use the VFRness to power accessories,  you can wire in your own relay, or still use it for that purpose.

 

This is the kit you'd want.

image.png.2efbc3d4319e40bc97b94f0725c5c1a2.png

 

For the wire, you need 4 feet of battery cable, 24 inches stator wire

image.png.8958c5a71a96e23619e23fb9a170148f.png

 

Also the mounting plate helps, so its not danging by 1 bolt.

image.png.ca6ff2a1912b6ebb9b86ff27395a6f4c.png

 

Installation is a breeze. Snip 3 wire connector of off the stator wire, solder or use the butt connector included to attach the 3 wires to the included stator connector. Then run the positive and negative back to the battery, which bypasses the weak old RR connectors.

 

If you are on a budget and the extra $50 is a squeeze, use the 'The Super Mosfet Kit FH020AA' kit. It was the gold standard forever, and has just been surpassed by the SH847. It doesn't make it any less reliable, lasting 50k+ miles without issues. The SH847 does lengthen stator life, though.

 

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I sell a 6th gen mount plate kit for the R/R if you're interested. Perfect fit up.

$17.95 plus $7 shipping for the SH847

$15.95 plus $7 shipping for the FH020aa

I have thread on the SH847 plate but cant find it at the moment.... 

 

btw - I run the FH020AA on mine and it's fine.

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Thanks for the information! I ordered the kit just now with the SH847. I emailed Jack last night and he said the same thing. This will also fix the charred stock connectors. And I will definitely solder and heat shrink the cables.

 

I use a Fuzebox to power my accessories so that won't be an issue.

Guess I better start pulling the VFRness off now.

 

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I ordered Jack's adapter plate with the kit.

Now what do I do with the 6 pin connector that comes from the stock R/R? The one with 5 pins? Does the SH847 connect to it? Or will I need to modify it like I will the stator 3 pin connector?

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Nevermind. I really should do all the reading on the roadstercycle website before asking questions already answered. Lol. Taping off the connector and tuck it away. I love simple solutions.

And Jack is very responsive to email. Already confirmed my order will ship on Monday. I love responsive customer support.

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Well the R/R kit arrived and was installed. Nice kit. Came with solder bridges and heat shrink that I used on the stator wires (I don't crimp on vehicles) so I know it won't come loose or suffer from debris. Did the stator test again at the connector to double check and all was well.

Fitting that beefy SH847 R/R in the stock location was a chore. I had to lose the fairing bracket and shoe horn it in but it fit, just barely, without bending any wires from the connectors. From there I routed the battery wires under the tank, like I did for the VFRness I removed, and wired it up to the battery. Before buttoning everything up I turned her on and the volt meter read 14.4V at idle. Satisfied, I put everything back on the bike only to discover the large breaker on the positive wire was in the way of the seat. Due to it's placement on the wire there was no place I could tuck it out of the way so I had to work the seat on but got it to fit. I will probably address that issue in the near future because I am picky like that.

I took her out on a trial run and the volt meter stayed stay at 14.4V but never got higher than 14.5V. Of course when I ran the high beams it dropped 1V but that was expected. Call me satisfied and happy to have my VFR back on the road. I especially love the fact that it bypasses the stock harness ridding me of all the known harness issues.

Thanks for pointing in that direction. Jack was a pleasure to do business with. Very responsive and quick to ship the kit. The kit wasn't cheap but then quality work rarely is.

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