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Rear brake rotor replacement


M0T0RIDER3737

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Hey all, looking for a bit of advice on replacing the rear brake rotor, attempted to replace it today and found that it seems to be mounted on the opposite side of the hub to the wheel (which I found strange) now what I need to know is has anyone actually changed one and if so how is the hub removed and is it a massive job to do

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What happened to your rear rotor?  They don't usually wear out, and definitely not on a four year-old bike.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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Hopefully this will help. Should be a link to the 2014 VFR service manual.

 

Could not open it myself as I'm on a ship with slow internet speeds, but should be ok on land.

 

 

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2 hours ago, FromMaine said:

Hopefully this will help. Should be a link to the 2014 VFR service manual.

 

Could not open it myself as I'm on a ship with slow internet speeds, but should be ok on land.

 

 

unfortunately this isn't what I'm looking for, I already checked my owner's manual for infor, thanks for the assist anyway

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The rear hub is very similar to all the other VFR rear hubs (except the 1200), so you have to remove the sprocket carrier on the LHS, then draw the axle out from the RHS.   That means un-staking the retaining nut, un-torquing it and swinging the brake caliper out of the way.  Leave the chain on and put the bike in gear before leaning on a breaker bar to loosen it. 

 

Sometimes the axle siezes within the sprocket carrier, which can be a pain, but hopefully not on a 4 year-old bike.  (Apply some anti-seize lubricant to the splines when you re-assemble to make this less likely to occur in the future.)  Good luck!

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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7 hours ago, JZH said:

The rear hub is very similar to all the other VFR rear hubs (except the 1200), so you have to remove the sprocket carrier on the LHS, then draw the axle out from the RHS.   That means un-staking the retaining nut, un-torquing it and swinging the brake caliper out of the way.  Leave the chain on and put the bike in gear before leaning on a breaker bar to loosen it. 

 

Sometimes the axle siezes within the sprocket carrier, which can be a pain, but hopefully not on a 4 year-old bike.  (Apply some anti-seize lubricant to the splines when you re-assemble to make this less likely to occur in the future.)  Good luck!

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

just to clarify does the chain and sprocket carrier need to be removed at all during this process or can they remain in place with the hub removed? also I am assuming the bearing pinch bolt will also need to be loosened, is this correct?

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I generally use these relevant terms: Sprocket carrier (the cush-drive thing to which the sprocket is bolted), Bearing carrier (the eccentric hub through which the axle passes) and Axle (the axle which passes through the Bearing carrier and to which the Sprocket carrier is attached on the LHS.

 

You don't have to do anything with the Sprocket carrier, but as you need to remove the Axle to get the rotor/disc off, it will just fall to the floor!  Actually, the chain will stop that from happening, but in practice you remove it (after un-staking and removing the nut that retains it) and set it aside.

 

The pinch bolt acts on the Bearing carrier to keep it from rotating (or being removed, but that's not its purpose), thus preserving chain adjustment.  You don't need to loosen the pinch bolt unless you're rotating or removing the Bearing carrier.  There is no need to do either of these things if all you want to do is extract the axle from the RHS.  However, again in practice, you would ordinarily loosen the pinch bolt in order to allow the Bearing carrier to rotate and the chain to be slackened and removed from the sprocket.  (But don't do this before un-staking and removing the big nut on the LHS.)

 

Once you've removed the Sprocket carrier, loosened the pinch bolt and extracted the Axle, there will be nothing holding the Bearing carrier into the swing arm (indeed, it may come out with the Axle), and it is good practice to remove it and clean the inside of the swing arm, where grit and small stones may gather and impede the smooth rotation of the Bearing carrier.

 

This is not a big or complicated job, but it can be daunting if it's your first time.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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Thanks for all the help ( Big thanks to JHZ) everything whent mostly alright, though the axel assembly was a bit of prick to get out (lots of hammering was involved), but the new rotor and pads are in and nothing was broken in the process, so I would call that a win.

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