SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 Just finishing up the last few bits on this build, figured it was time to share here. This will be a long multi-segment post, so keep checking in till the finished pics pop up. The (rough) design brief... CBR1000RR tail, F4i RSU fork swap, handlebar and riser conversion, round headlight, front mount radiator, custom exhaust header with low/underbelly muffler and exit, powdercoat lots of parts. Overall, the usual crisp, clean, loaded-with-details build with a P51 Mustang - airplane inspired theme. Starting with a reasonably clean albeit slightly higher mileage '99 model: Coolant drained, rads off, brakes (mostly) bled out, rear axle nut cracked loose. On track for fork swap by weeks end Washer fluid bottle makes a good drain catch for coolant streaming from the drain at the pump Not much, but at least it looks a bit lighter with the side rads gone. More disassembly. Removed hand controls, linked brake system, clutch slave, pair system, other misc stuff. She's pretty grungy, got my work cut out for me to make it clean and shiny again. Always gets worse before it gets better... Found a broken airbox lid Fitted the F4i forks and triples, and a set of brake calipers. The VFR wheel fits almost perfectly. I did have to cut off the F4i steering lock stops to fit the lower, will make new ones later. Then I offered up the CBR tail I'm happy with how the shapes will blend. With the right blend panels and paint, it will look factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Here's something you don't hear every day (video) Head bearings will need replacing. The saloon door action ain't gonna cut it! (video) Here's most of the stuff that's come off... Gas tank drained & off Wiring harness (a lot of it!!) out Fairing stay tab removed, still need to remove the other one Quick mock up with oem tank and Hornet headlight Same but with a 2002 VFR tank Going to use the 02 tank as it looks much better with the tail, and the seat fit is just about perfect. Did a little test fit of the front mount radiator, should work out real nice Other side Handlebar and risers on the way, hope they improve the look of the headlight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 The 2002 tank is not a direct fit, the tank hits the airbox lid before it touches the mount. Also, the hole pattern is different on the rear flange (front is a direct bolt-on though) I figured out that a 1/2" aluminum adapter would suffice, and made one. Next up, Taking a little more material off the frame so I can get the subframe positioned just right, then make the mounts for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Risers in Adaptors rigged up Shock swapped for 954 unit Now "sittable" Swapped in some CBR1k stick coils And started on the front upper rad mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Test fitted VFR800 fan to the 750 rad, looks like it will work just fine with new mounts Made some temporary hangers to sort the rad position Not bad for a first guess Need to order a 750 left side rad hose, finalize 3 brackets and mount fan, overflow to finish out cooling system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Polished gas cap (Thanks Bill!) Made & welded mounts for rad fan All done Also mounted the risers to the upper triple. The risers hung over the edges of the triple a little and I didn't like that, so decided to fill the gaps with weld. This is in addition to bolting them on, powdercoat should finish the blend on the unwelded sections. Headlight mounts almost done, pics coming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 There's an F4i shock in there now. Had to switch due to reservoir interference with my subframe mounts, now have to make a res bracket, no biggie. I think it'll mount horizontally across the bike and be hidden from the back by the upcoming license plate bracket. Bought a bottle of simple green and tested a few spots on the motor and wheels, looking good with a little help from an old toothbrush. Hoping all the crud comes off pretty easily, I hate cleaning motors! Breaking down for powder soon so will find out soon enough I guess. As promised, headlight brackets done save for powdercoat. Light bucket is nice and tight to the frame, once I finish cleaning the old fairing bracket mounts off it will sit lower to give space for ignition and fly screen. Good start to the undertail/tray thing Nice little spot for dzus clips on the subbie Trimmed the sheet and the shut line till I liked it Then pinned it in place and welded the rear to the cross bar Both sides Need a bend at the bottom... no press brake... make do with suitable implements Tada Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted September 6, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 6, 2018 A buddy polished my gas cap years ago after he got himself a polishing wheel. Kept it for a while, but gave up on it 'cause it was too bright! But it wasn't a show bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 I picked up a set of the stock CBR seat filler panels, but forgot a pic. They are one of those things that ebay sellers charge $30 for, even though they only cost $10 new. Always pays to check these things! I did take pics of the CBR1k masters, and the new Delkevic header. I chose the header specifically for its poor design. The workmanship is adequate, but the many pieces and hokey collector are not what I would consider ideal for flow for performance or stock replacement. However, it makes a nice starting point for a one-off design as all the tubes are already separated. New rad brackets CXRacing oil cooler (thanks for finding this little guy Robbo!) with XRP TiTech fittings Wanting bare aluminum look on masters, so disassembled them and dropped them in a bucket of old brake fluid. I don't see why it won't take the finish off nice and easy? (SPOILER: it didn't work!) Need to make parts for this oil cooler mount tonight, I'm excited that it fits where I wanted it to! Simple Green to the rescue on these gnarly parts This was the start of the new rearset adapters. I'm fitting 954 Sato bling to this old girl Initial sketches turned into a paper template that did fit, but didn't please me So I adjusted I think it was the right choice I have a couple machining ops left to complete on them, and a couple spacers to make, but I like them so far. Peg location is stock in lowest, forward-most position, and gets racier from there. I'm also just about ready to hang the oil cooler. I chopped the factory cooler lines to rob the pan fittings, and tig brazed steel -6 AN adapters on with silicon bronze wire. Took a few measurements for top mount brackets for the cooler, work those next. Once I get a big list of oem gaskets and other parts on order I'll break down for powder, clean the motor, mount the new tires, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 This oil cooler mount is almost done. I picked a slightly better spot which will require moving the cooler to change the oil filter. Only 2 bolts, I've seen worse on factory bikes. Started with these to test the theory Sketched out some changes Drilled these unused holes out to 10mm from 9mm Which allows me to hang the cooler with stainless bolts Nice clearance all around, should work well. The brake fluid soak didn't work too well, so I bead blasted the clutch master. I'll probably end up brushing it, but I'm considering a primer to lend to the airplane style control appearance. Picture of mystery part to keep you guessing Oil cooler mockup done, made 2 hoses to mate to my custom fittings Left side Right side Also painted the masters with a green self-etching primer that fits into the theme nicely Masters done Blasted and painted the perch clamps, fitted stainless bolts, fitted new fluid nipple to clutch master And began the reshaping of the front sprocket cover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 That weird lookin part I posted a while back... it goes here And it serves to mount this on top of the risers Yes it sits tall, making a stanchion that doesn't look goofy won't be easy... let's make it less tall first Mill the riser caps down That's better Mocked up with mirrors, masters The front brakes needed some help, queue up new seals, pads, brake cleaner, toothbrush, brass brush, metal polish... etc. And time. Lots of time. T45 torx, in case anyone is curious... Halfway Some time later... a pretty pair of nuggets Extraordinary golden glow courtesy of my scrubbing and an instagram filter I actually bead blasted the pad springs and bolt heads, then rubbed them down with maroon scotchbrite to shine them back up a little. Need to make this less ugly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Tires on... Diablo rain Race... because airplane theme... Samco hoses for the radiator inlet/outlet... standard 99 replacement on the right, 94-97 VFR750 hose for the left Small hose in the pic is wrong, Racebikebitz mixed up the part numbers, they're sending the correct one gratis. Takes 4-5 weeks though... Finished up the rearset adapters by adding the last counterbores After midnight things get a little fuzzy Let the lunacy begin... Steel bolt welded itself into the aluminum... so I welded another bolt to it and spun it out Finished cleaning up the front fairing mounts Found the robotic O face a bit disturbing... so welded it up along with the coil mount holes on the sides... swapping to stick coils so don't need the originals. Then smoothed those out Also buzzed in a couple sections of rod stock, to be utilized at a later date 60k miles has done us no favors in the cleanliness department, the swingarm is the filthiest part of the whole bike. Well, except for the front sprocket area That's the arm disassembled, with a couple reference pics for later. All these bearings and the ones in the axle cassette are being replaced with new. Amazing what simple green, Wd40, brake cleaner, and a scrub brush will get you Prep that for powder Always a sad moment for some reason... Frame and arm ready Swingarm/kickstand cushion thing also In the past, I've had parts messed up by coaters. The worst was when one of them masked front rotor mount surfaces on one side of a bike wheel, and not on the other. And didn't plug any of the holes for blasting. It was a real "can't fix stupid" moment. By masking off the parts myself, I'm in control of 1 extra part of their process, so 1 less thing that can go wrong. My tape is removed and replaced by a temp resistant type after blasting. I also take lots of pics of the individual parts to share with the coater, and also for my records in case something does go wrong. On top of that, I flag areas on the masking to indicate no blast/no powder, or blast ok/no powder. I use a good heavy masking tape, so you'd have to be doing something wrong to blast through it and ruin edges under normal circumstances. The edge definition of the powder comes from the job the coater does with the high temp stuff. I've done a bunch of sandblasting, but now just have a medium size cabinet at home for glass bead which is good for paint prep and light cleaning on things like bolts and brake rotors. Disassembled the hub, sprocket bolts were not tight... which reminded me the axle nut was not tight either... good thing she's being gone through. Cush rubbers were hard, cracked, and basically shot. Already have new ones on hand Finished shaping the lightened sprocket cover/clutch slave holder and cleaned it, this will get powder too Trying to figure out how much of this rats nest can be ditched... so many vacuum lines... so much dirt... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Made adjustable steering stops, drilled and tapped the existing dimpled locations and bolted them on. The motor was really grungy, 60kmi worth. I soaked the block all over with alternating rounds of wd40 and simple green for about a week, which helped a lot. In between scrubbing sessions, I picked this up from the powdercoater: I popped most of it on the block so I could get on with deep cleaning That's about 8 hours of scrubbing there. Worth it to see a nice clean lump, especially because it will be pretty visible. I have more stainless bolts on order to finish out the side covers. I also reassembled the cush drive hub with new rubbers. Blasted and painted rear master, rearset assembly preview Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Seat! New PBI 15T front sprocket. Was going to install the slave, but I forgot that some of the dowel pins were rusted and junk, so had to buy a handful. Time to do something with these First up, fit new bearings to the arm. The radial bearings popped right in as expected The needle roller bearing... well that one was a bit more difficult... I had to get a little creative. Detail line on the socket made a nice easy visual for setting depth to the required 6mm... Then it was time to move this lump off the cleaning cart and back to the table Add the spacers to the arm and have a fit check Then pop in the pivot bolt and rearset Finished up installing all the engine covers 100%, they all got new paper and rubber gaskets. Last thing was to put a finish on the clutch pressure plate. Same green primer I used on some other parts Then some fancy tape work to lay out a USAF-looking star After a shot of gloss white, I busted out the Kafka #1 for some shaky line action... The yellow zinc coating on the factory clutch bolts was just right for an ammunition effect Then finished cleaning the axle/rotor by glass bead blasting, replaced the bearings in the cassette, cleaned the caliper hanger, chain slider, and lower guard and all the bolts for those and put all that stuff together. Stuck the triangles in to hold the arm up Then heaved the wheel in for a look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Next up the rear caliper rebuild. This thing was dirty just like the rest of the bike, you'll have to take my word for it as I forgot the before pic. For those that don't know, the 98+ VFR's have front and rear linked brakes. Since I'm using a conventional unlinked front end, I have to modify the rear caliper to keep it. I swapped the rear master out for a CBR600 unit to improve the pressure ratio, and drilled the caliper to connect the large center piston to the smaller outer pistons. You can see the hole I drilled at 3 o'clock in the center piston bore. If you look close, you can see how it connects to the port passing between the 2 outers Polished pistons The old banjo bolt hole for the center piston will be blocked off by the bolt in the pic. A single line will feed all 3 bores from the CBR master. Also, caliper connecting bracket before cleaning: Bracket after cleaning + new parts Pistons in All together And installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Then I swapped out the old oil filter for a new Bosch 3300, and installed the oil cooler with a sticker on top Next up, this dirty thing needed a refurb Original 60k tstat?? Tstat housing after bead blast and a bit of refining Much better And back together with new tstat, o ring, and hoses. Frame prepped out. All threads cleaned and new tapered roller bearing races banged in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Sometimes it pays to have a lot of experience with one kind of bike... helps to know what to look for... like these baked out coolant joint o rings Look at those crusty things on the table, they were already failing. Quick bead blast brought the joints back to life though New o rings and a bit of scotch brite scrubbing on the mating surfaces finishes out that chore Rinse and repeat for the side joints, these weren't as bad, not baked in the heat of the vee. Then I dropped the frame on for a bit of scenery while I got going on cleaning the throttle bodies. Theme check... The top shock mount needed to be made longer to accommodate the 1/2" spacer I added to raise the rear. Accomplished by replacing the factory bolt with a longer one. Cut the old bolt, punched the spot welded head out, turned down the head of the new screw, tack weld that in place then a coat of paint. It's in place here. I added the horizontal shock reservoir mount, but forgot to take pics along the way. I have the res mounted to it now, but need to trim the hose clamps before I take a pic of that. Paint samples Fine silver brushed with white, green, and gray scotch brite pads before and after clear. I tried drawing a few different styles of rivets in pencil before clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 New All Balls tapered bearings in the frame and triple, front end back on Pipe ideas... I've got some of these on the way for the paint This is a sample of the paint. It's really hard to get a pic of the colors. The greens are both Toyota colors, Spruce Green and Army Green. The Spruce almost looks black until the light hits it just right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Brake lines were once again an easy 15min phone call and less than a week's wait from Core Moto. Translucent orange hose, polished stainless banjos, gray tags. Core Moto has a great selection of colors and fitting styles. I was able to pick just the right bends for all the banjos so the hoses flow smoothly everywhere they need to, and the hardware they supply is super nice too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Puzzle pieces Kickstand is back on too Baffles Slip fits made possible by hacking this shit apart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted September 6, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted September 6, 2018 Damn! Nice work Seb. The only thing that frightens me more than your talent, is the K&N oil filter on the motor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Final assembly on the cans. Brushed the tubes with 100grit paper Then trimmed the perfed cores to length Tacked on inlet reducers Wrapped the cores with SS wool Inserted cores Tacked in my connector spacer things Inlets are a little funky, unequal length to make tying in the tubes easier. I used silicon bronze for something different, and to build up a bit of material at the joint. On the shorter one, I actually had to resize an oem inlet to fit the 2" tube. A few slices and a squeeze and GTG. All done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Just now, Duc2V4 said: Damn! Nice work Seb. The only thing that frightens me more than your talent, is the K&N oil filter on the motor! Keep looking, it was taken care of! LOL I run Bosch filters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Next up, I had to firm some things up to allow me to run the joiner tubes properly. Can't have a bunch of play when trying to do precision work! First I tacked the rear down tubes. The clamped joints will be welded solid, the slip fit will move to the merge collector. Next needed to hang the cans. Got lucky and was able to re use another piece of the Delkevic donor header. The bracket that was the bump-stop for the (now non-existant) centerstand became the hanger for the cans. It did need a small filler piece added, but what's another weld at this point? Now I can start adding joiner sections. Front bank routing will be pretty easy Rear bank not so much Just a little slicing and dicing... Think I got'er On to the front bank... would have like to do this just a bit different, but I cut myself a little short on material and didn't want to wait another week for one more section of bend to show up in the mail. So I reused another Delkevic piece, the one I cut the bracket off of. I'll clean that up later. I was able to fuse most of the pieces in place, but as I don't have any fancy tubing clamps, the pieces move a bit when tacking and I ended up taking it off so I could tweak the pieces back by hand before fusing them up for good. Exhaust done :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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