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800 Rear Bearing Holder Removal - it wont budge!


Skids

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Looking for some suggestions.

 

I'm trying to remove the rear hub bearing holder on my '15 VFR800X so I can inspect the mating surface on the eccentric cam as it is getting increasingly difficult to tighten the chain. I've un-staked the 46mm axle nut but cannot get it to undo. I've tried with my breaker bar and a hollow pipe extension fed over it, so about 3-4ft of leverage and it simply wont budge. I've applied some WD40 where I can and will wait now until tomorrow to see if it ingresses at all but after that, I'm stuck as to what to do.

 

Any suggestions?

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Heat will knacker the bearings, a longer lever will probably bend the breaker bar.

 

I have no idea what a rattle gun is.

 

Thanks though. 👍:beer:

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3 minutes ago, Skids said:

Heat will knacker the bearings, a longer lever will probably bend the breaker bar.

 

I have no idea what a rattle gun is.

 

Thanks though. 👍:beer:

 

rattle gun = impact wrench

 

If you work on anything cars/bikes/equipment/etc. I can't recommend one enough. This is the big one I have ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0754MTTCL/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and it spins that nut off like it was only finger tight. Also, WD40 is a lubricant, not a penetrant. Get yourself a can of Kroil ( https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1535726823&sr=8-2&keywords=kroil&dpID=416kxyRAYML&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch )and give that a whirl. If you can't get it loose at home, take a ride to your nearest shop, have them break it loose with the impact but leave it on and tight enough to hold, ride home, spin that sucker off get to work. Do you have a torque wrench in order to correctly re-install that nut?  HTH!

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3 hours ago, adkfinn said:

 

rattle gun = impact wrench

 

If you work on anything cars/bikes/equipment/etc. I can't recommend one enough. This is the big one I have ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0754MTTCL/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and it spins that nut off like it was only finger tight. Also, WD40 is a lubricant, not a penetrant. Get yourself a can of Kroil ( https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1535726823&sr=8-2&keywords=kroil&dpID=416kxyRAYML&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch )and give that a whirl. If you can't get it loose at home, take a ride to your nearest shop, have them break it loose with the impact but leave it on and tight enough to hold, ride home, spin that sucker off get to work. Do you have a torque wrench in order to correctly re-install that nut?  HTH!

 

Thanks for that m8, though maybe $400+ is a bit much.

 

Yes, I have a 200+ torque wrench. :beer:

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12 minutes ago, Skids said:

 

Thanks for that m8, though maybe $400+ is a bit much.

 

Yes, I have a 200+ torque wrench. :beer:

 

It isn't cheap, I'll give you that. My other suggestion about having your local garage break that nut for you is probably the cheapest and easiest option. 

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I guess that will be my backstop. 

 

A m8 has suggested I look at the torque arm bolts to see if they have seized up too as they can make it difficult to tighten the chain.

 

Busy today but shall take a look after I've recovered from my hangover tomorrow!  :beer:

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Before you even attempt to remove the eccentric, have you tried fully loosening the pinch bolt and prying open the hub at the rear?

Then start to try adjusting the chain

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8 hours ago, Vee-Ef-Ar said:

Before you even attempt to remove the eccentric, have you tried fully loosening the pinch bolt and prying open the hub at the rear?

Then start to try adjusting the chain

 

Yup, done that thanks. :beer:

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WD40 is not really the right stuff.  Try PlusGas.  The only other thing I can think of is to use a longer lever...

 

Ciao,

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On ‎9‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 11:32 PM, Vee-Ef-Ar said:

Before you even attempt to remove the eccentric, have you tried fully loosening the pinch bolt and prying open the hub at the rear?

Then start to try adjusting the chain

 

But you got me thinking so I did pry it open slightly, sprayed a bit of WD40 in then tried moving the chain adjuster all the way slack, then spayed some more in and carried on like that for a while and it loosened up quite well so I'm accepting that as a partial win for now.

 

Cheers. :beer:

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Penetrating fluids test SeaFoam best

[youtube]

 

 

If your axle looks like this then it is suffering the effects of
corrosion... mainly due to riding in the rain and hitting your prize
with a garden hose... both acts abuse a bike because it promotes
corrosion in all the little nooks and crannies... the pitfull as the metal is
etched for life... you might wish to pull the axle and check the
sprocket side as well... the cush drive is another moisture trap...

 

 

gallery_3131_51_44321.jpg
gallery_3131_51_11731.jpg

 

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13 hours ago, BusyLittleShop said:

 

 

 

If your axle looks like this then it is suffering the effects of
corrosion... mainly due to riding in the rain and hitting your prize
with a garden hose... both acts abuse a bike because it promotes
corrosion in all the little nooks and crannies... the pitfull as the metal is
etched for life... you might wish to pull the axle and check the
sprocket side as well... the cush drive is another moisture trap...

 

 

 

 

 

BLS,

Now i have to ask, how do you wash the RC45

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2 hours ago, gig said:

 

BLS,

Now i have to ask, how do you wash the RC45

My guess:

 

image.jpeg.bfdf88216c49197c9c7bb17b7ebd7c4f.jpeg

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I try to avoid washing as much as possible. Now, I’m not a UK rider with 280 days of rain, but interval cleaning with microfiber cloths and Plexus keeps me happy about not washing it. For the nooks and crannies on metal bits like wheels, swingarms, engine cases et cetera I spot wash with Simple Green and I use a better powered leaf blower to evacuate as much of the water droplets as I can. 

 

As others have suggested, for your bolt problem try an impact and a penetrant like Kroil. 

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9 hours ago, gig said:

 

BLS,

Now i have to ask, how do you wash the RC45

 

Busy Little Shop's 3 step method of bike cleaning:

 

1) At the end of day soak a soft wash cloth in HOT water and remove bugs
and road grime... repeat as necessary and keep the rag HOT...

2) Apply  Meguiars detailer mist to a soft rag and then to fairings and gas

tank and buff to a shine...

3) Apply a little gasoline to a soft rag and degrease chain and magnesium
wheels... Meguiars  wheels to a nice luster...

 

After 20 years and 62,000 miles of perverted highway I've never once hit
Mr.RC45 with a garden hose... to me it's bike abuse because it promotes

corrosion in all the little nooks and crannies...

 

 

DSCN1329.JPG

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Which is fine if you live in California but your bike would be a pile of rust and 2 tyres if you treated it like that over here and rode through the winter.

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5 hours ago, Skids said:

Which is fine if you live in California but your bike would be a pile of rust and 2 tyres if you treated it like that over here and rode through the winter.

 

If I had a bike like that, i would not ride it through the wet or winter, anywhere.  

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On 9/3/2018 at 8:43 PM, Skids said:

 

But you got me thinking so I did pry it open slightly, sprayed a bit of WD40 in then tried moving the chain adjuster all the way slack, then spayed some more in and carried on like that for a while and it loosened up quite well so I'm accepting that as a partial win for now.

 

Cheers. :beer:

Glad you got it sorted 😃

Bearings have gone in mine, so I'll probably be trying the same thing some time soon.

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On 9/4/2018 at 12:58 PM, Skids said:

Which is fine if you live in California but your bike would be a pile of rust and 2 tyres if you treated it like that over here and rode through the winter.

 

Negative... California climate is just as tough because its uniquely 4 distinct zones... we have the option of picking our zone or zones in a day ride but at the end we still treat our prize to the same 3 step method of cleaning...
1)Marine West Coast
2)Mediterranean
3)Highland
4)Subtropical Desert

CalClimates1.jpg

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If you ride rain or shine, you will get moisture in nooks and crannys regardless of the climate zone.  A wipe clean isn't going to cut it after riding in a cold wet UK winter, or a wet Cali winter for that matter.  I think that's what Skids deals with.  A low pressure hosing/wash followed by a thorough compressed air blow-off and appropriate lubes and corrosion treatments in the crevices is what mostly works for me.  Detail afterwards if any beer is left. :beer:

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When you eventually tear it down, clean all the crap out of the inside of the swingarm, then glue some fine SS mesh over the holes in it by the shock this will stop further crud getting inside. Then polish the clamping areas & use some ACF50 or similar on the clamping areas, allow to dry thoroughly before putting back in the swingarm.

 

If you ride in harsh weather especially with salt on the road, then you need to tear down the axle, hub & rising rate linkages annually to clean thoroughly & grease them.  If you ride like Larry, then just do what he does. Road salt kills bikes which is why I park up my VFR when the first salt goes down & don't take it out until a few good spring rains have washed it all away again. That's a 5-6 month lay off here in the UK, but I have other bikes to ride in the winter that I'm less precious about 🙂

 

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4 hours ago, Mohawk said:

When you eventually tear it down, clean all the crap out of the inside of the swingarm, then glue some fine SS mesh over the holes in it by the shock this will stop further crud getting inside. Then polish the clamping areas & use some ACF50 or similar on the clamping areas, allow to dry thoroughly before putting back in the swingarm.

 

If you ride in harsh weather especially with salt on the road, then you need to tear down the axle, hub & rising rate linkages annually to clean thoroughly & grease them.  If you ride like Larry, then just do what he does. Road salt kills bikes which is why I park up my VFR when the first salt goes down & don't take it out until a few good spring rains have washed it all away again. That's a 5-6 month lay off here in the UK, but I have other bikes to ride in the winter that I'm less precious about 🙂

 

 

Thanks for that m8.

 

The Crossrunner is my commuter, winter and summer. I bought her to do that job come rain or shine.

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Skids,

 

Many moons ago I replaced the hub bearings on a 4th gen 750FR and at the same time blocked the hole from the hollow swingarm into the hub holder (shown in pic #1) by gluing in a piece of plastic sheet. This would be a simpler fix if you have the hub removed from the swingarm.

 

I made a blanking plate for the single rear hole between the arm hollow and the hub holder, using the plastic lid of a biscuit box. This has a rim to seal it to the box, and I modified this to form a step or joggle to use as an alignment aid. Pic 2 gives an idea of the shape and trimming required to fit - this is of the back or hidden inside face of the plate. The ruler is in centimetres, and it shows the lower joggled end. 


The plate is held in and sealed with No Nails glue/caulk, and sits in the recess between the two support surfaces that form the edges of the hub hole. Pic 3 shows the result, and the other side of the plate with its red box-top decoration. 

 

HTH

2 Rear hub bearings 019 small label.jpg

5 Rear hub bearings 013.jpg

6 Rear hub bearings 020 small label.jpg

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