Update on low-charging problem, all done now.

[VFRSuperfreak]

Hi all, wanted to update the prev. thread but this will do.  My 1996 is now charging 14.4v as shown on video below. 

Just wanted to post this for those who wonder about doing a stator rewind. This is its 2nd rewind, the previous was done 6 years ago.
Now It was weak, disconnected charging some 10-20volt AC per pair, and 12vDC to 13.5 after connected to a newer, finned R-R made for a Honda cruiser. 

Some might say that for the inconvenience, a new stator might be better, but I don't earn USD currently, and wire craftsmen are lower priced around here. 

 

More deets; Wiring was changed all around some 6 years ago, beefier lines, doubled to battery posts. Also did away with almost all harnesses. Current battery is econo brand, previous was Yuasa, lasted 5 years. 
Hope this helps!  (video done yesterday).
 

 

[otmaximus]

Nice post VFR superfreak.  

I replaced my stator several years ago with something off eBay from a bike with fewer miles. 

Your post has me considering sending the original stator out for a rewind. 

Where is “around here” for you?

Paul in SoCal 

[VFRSuperfreak]

I'm in SW Mexico. And it so happens that days after that test, the only other time I got the bike out, the charging failed. the stator is now off the bike. I was going to delete this thread but let it be a learning experience; 

 

Check the picture where the stator isn't finished: Some of the studs aren't properly isolated!. On studs at 11 and 3 o'clock; The black material is broken.
This means the wiring will / is now / easily touching the studs. The test readings for this specific problem are inconclusive, (ground to the 3 stator wires). because at times the reading is all zeros, and other times 2 leads show .400 or so ohms. They should be all zeros. [all da fkn time!]

 

I only went back to this picture after the failure, then found some videos on how to do your own winding. The first step is to cover these studs with isolating paint (then baking in 300deg. oven for 30 minutes, see video below). 

 

TLDR;  The new wiring isn't properly isolated. The engine vibe probably made the new wires contact the stator metal. 
 

-But we be learning. I'm doing a few more test before redoing it all.  Check at .40 on this :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_RuEK0HMxw

 

 

PS: Don't kill the messenger! I'm grounded. lol. Very likely I'll do it myself next, after demanding all materials from the guy I paid!. I have time to do every single winding right. 34 turns each. 

[Zarquon]

Sometimes you just got to do it wrong before you can get it right!!!? Full points for sticking with it. I am wondering if a few extra coats of lacquer on the finished windings would improve the life expectancy of the insulation.

 

Could you please let us know what the thickness of the winding wire is and about what length you need for the whole job. Then I can keep some on hand.

 

Cheers

Z

[MaxSwell]

13 hours ago, Zarquon said:

Sometimes you just got to do it wrong before you can get it right!!!? Full points for sticking with it. I am wondering if a few extra coats of lacquer on the finished windings would improve the life expectancy of the insulation.

 

Could you please let us know what the thickness of the winding wire is and about what length you need for the whole job. Then I can keep some on hand.

 

Cheers

Z

+1 I've got a spare fifth gen or two (darn deer!). I've considered removing a stator and sending it out to be rewound and putting it in my current rider. This would add to my options.

[Zarquon]

After 24hrs of thinking about rewinding your stator. I'm willing to bet that fewer turns on each pole (say 31 instead of 34) and fatter winding wire (say plus 10 tp 15% in cross section) might drop the stators output voltage and improve its current handling... then add the extra coats of lacquer and it should run cooler and last longer! You probably wouldn't even notice any drop in battery charging rate except at idle rpm.

 

For your thought.

[VFRSuperfreak]

On 8/23/2018 at 4:09 AM, Zarquon said:

After 24hrs of thinking about rewinding your stator. I'm willing to bet that fewer turns on each pole (say 31 instead of 34) and fatter winding wire (say plus 10 tp 15% in cross section) might drop the stators output voltage and improve its current handling... then add the extra coats of lacquer and it should run cooler and last longer! You probably wouldn't even notice any drop in battery charging rate except at idle rpm.

 

For your thought.

 

Thanks, good idea. Will try it next (because I haven't re-done it since I posted the above), so I don't have the info on wire thickness yet. 

This is the latest: I had kept the previous battery, the Yuasa, on low automatic charge for months, (1amp), since I bought the chinacheapo P.O.S. that lasted me some 6 months.  So, I wired the old Yuasa, went out riding since the thing starts!, this lasted about 3 days and maybe 10 starts. Then old Yuasa died. I bought a new one now. Off-brand but better than the previous. (yeah I pushed the bike several blocks, then hired a scooter dude to push me with one leg, did I say labour is cheap here....?

 The charging is still 13 to 14.4 V all around the RPM range. THIS ALL with the same re-wound stator from 2 weeks ago.

So this proves that all components have to be checked, changed where they aren't to spec even if one part is recent.