Maddad Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 I rode three weeks ago and every thing was fine. Now there are no headlight ano fuel pump prlme. These things have about as much electrical issues as an old british bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 21, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 21, 2018 5 hours ago, Maddad said: I rode three weeks ago and every thing was fine. Now there are no headlight ano fuel pump prlme. These things have about as much electrical issues as an old british bike. Hi Maddad. Basics first are all fuses O.K especially the main Fuses A & B 30a fuses, these can suffer badly from heat stress and poor contact resistance? Headlights and Fuel Pump don't seem to be related. Your starter button has auxiliary contacts so that when you hit the starter your headlight relay drops out, once the starter button is released the contacts make and re-energise your headlight relay, this switch can become intermittent with dirt/grime in the switch. Exercise the starter button and try to spray some wd-40 into the switch to see if that helps your headlight issue, otherwise you may need to get to the headlight relay and do some voltage checks there. Does your starter crank the engine over at good speed? Do your Horn, Turn Indicators and High Beam work? As for the fuel pump. Locate the Fuel Cut Relay, at ingnition ON you should hear it click on, it should click off again after the 2 second prime period. Make sure there is 12volts at the two BL/W wires of the Fuel Cut Relay. The ECU provides the controlling ground to energise the Fuel Cut Relay via the BR/BL wire. Your Kill Switch if activated or faulty will inhibit the Fuel Pump, however this would also inhibit the Starter = no engine crank over. Bad earths can also cause multiple issues. Have you got the service manual? You can download it from this site. Hope this helps, Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maddad Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 I got to checking voltages and there is .10 of a volt at both the fuse for injection and headlights, all others have 12 volts. Where would the voltage be lost. Battery voltage is present at the ignition switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelF Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 The ignition switch itself may be worn out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maddad Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 I just came in from the shed and the wires that feed those two line to the fuse box are smoked. How it made it home I'll never know.Thank you Gentle Men for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 21, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 21, 2018 3 hours ago, Maddad said: I just came in from the shed and the wires that feed those two line to the fuse box are smoked. How it made it home I'll never know.Thank you Gentle Men for your input. That red wire feeding your headlight and fuel pump fuses goes back to your main Fuse B 30amp and straight off the R/R. Have a good look at the single joiner of this wire somewhere near the main Fuse B. From memory this join can suffer badly from a hi resistance joint causing issues. See your wiring diagram. Is your bike wiring stock standard? Have either of the 20a fuses for the headlight or fuel pump blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 High resistance caused by corrosion will overheat and kill the thing. you can see the corrosion starting here on the top left terminal.....greenish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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