Jump to content

Dynojet Autotune repair. Burnt Diode S1G


yogisays09

Recommended Posts

Dear tech Gurus

I bought an used Autotune module but the unit never turned on. out of curiosity i disassembled the entire unit and this is what i found on the board. I tried to contact DJ but they were unable to help. my google skills explains me that the burnt component is a diode.

 

Currently I tried t power the unit with a 9V adapter (9.62V on multimeter)  and tested the output at the burnt diode which was 2.64Volts. I gave direct 9.6V to the output side of the diode still the unit did not turn up.

 

techies pls help to bring my autotune back to life.

 

 

WhatsApp Image 2018-07-12 at 5.41.36 PM.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2018-07-12 at 5.41.35 PM(1).jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2018-07-12 at 5.41.35 PM.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Success at step 1 achieved. there i a similar diode on the back side of the board and upon checking the continuity on the meter it as a direct 1:1 connection and following laymans proceedure i removed the busted diode from the board and jumped the 2 points with a very thin wire element and to my surprise the unit came back to life on bench testing. Will be installing it to on the bike and do a live test.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Great job removing the coating from the board, it usually doesn't come off very easily.  You will want to replace the burned diode with another to provide the same reverse current protection of the original.  I HATE soldering SMDs, especially semiconductors and capacitors because the heat of the soldering iron can easily damage them.  If you don't have a flux pen already, you might want to consider getting one.  Putting a light coating of flux on the terminals of the diode and the PCB will encourage the flow of solder into the joint and reduce the time the components are exposed to heat.  The other method I use is to melt a tiny amount of solder onto the pads, place the component on top and hold it in place as I re-melt the solder on the pads.

 

I'm sure DynoJet is not thrilled that you got the potting/conformal coating off the board.  I wouldn't mind some more detailed pictures of the front and back of the board, if possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a ton MadScientist for the reply . I used this method to remove the old diode " The other method I use is to melt a tiny amount of solder onto the pads, place the component on top and hold it in place as I re-melt the solder on the pads. " and jumped the pads with a wire.

 

UNFORTUNATELY the unit is not functioning as it should, its flashing green light and AFR reads as 9.99. My CBR1000 also has an Autotune which flashes red light upon start up and not green.

I have emailed DJ again with another name and email just to see what they reply.

 

By the way i am installing this on my 2011 GSF1250 bandit.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/13/2018 at 2:19 AM, MadScientist said:

  I wouldn't mind some more detailed pictures of the front and back of the board, if possible.

Here you go , some more pics of the module. Removed the unit from the bike and will search for a S1G diode rectifier and retry. Meanwhile no positive reply from Dynojet. They wont share the circuit diagram I am sure.

WhatsApp Image 2018-07-15 at 7.17.16 AM(1).jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2018-07-15 at 7.17.16 AM.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2018-07-15 at 7.17.15 AM.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2018-07-15 at 7.17.14 AM(1).jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2018-07-15 at 7.17.14 AM.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2018-07-15 at 7.17.13 AM.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at this pic i can see 4 legs (4 golden pads) which can be the connectors to connect this module to the computer using USB2 but not sure.

WhatsApp Image 2018-07-15 at 7.17.13 AM.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I just noticed R19 is missing from the bottom(?) side of the board, there may not have been a resistor installed at that position though.  Check out the solder pads for evidence of broken solder and maybe check in the potting material to see if it got stuck upon removal.  R64, R65, and R68 appear to have virgin solder pads, so I think they were not installed.  This is somewhat common, I would bet they are populated on different versions of the board.

 

I assume you know a diode allows directional control of current flow.  You may have to try both orientations when you replace it, unless you were able to determine the direction of the original diode.

 

Thanks for the pictures!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/22/2018 at 8:54 PM, MadScientist said:

I just noticed R19 is missing from the bottom(?) side of the board, there may not have been a resistor installed at that position though.  Check out the solder pads for evidence of broken solder and maybe check in the potting material to see if it got stuck upon removal.  R64, R65, and R68 appear to have virgin solder pads, so I think they were not installed.  This is somewhat common, I would bet they are populated on different versions of the board.

 

I assume you know a diode allows directional control of current flow.  You may have to try both orientations when you replace it, unless you were able to determine the direction of the original diode.

 

Thanks for the pictures!

Nothing is missing on R19, it was blank. Pads are virgin on all the blank plots.

 

Yes i learnt what a diode it and before removing the old ones i noted down the direction in which it was placed. 

 

I have tried and tested the module several times and on 2 different bikes as well, it doesn't work. Have no other choice and have to throw this unit. Without the circuit diagram it is not possibel to proceed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.