Member Contributer k1c Posted July 8, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 8, 2018 I posted on VFRW a couple of minute ago.....trolling for help and answers. Just put in a set of new front brake pads on my 2000 5TH GEN. No leaks or crimped lines. Problem is that there is absolutely NO pressure at the brake lever, even after minutes of pumping trying to get pressure back. Brake worked perfectly prior to starting the pad replacement. Other than pushing back the the old pads and calipers to allow room for the new pads and sliding the pads into place nothing else was touched. I've done this job before on this bike, not to mention at least a dozen pad changes on various cars, and never run into this problem before. Anyone have an idea what might be wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted July 8, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 8, 2018 I’d check the MC and make sure the fluid looks clean and that the hole at the bottom of the MC isn’t blocked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer k1c Posted July 8, 2018 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 8, 2018 Thanks Duc. Will do, and flush/bleed as well. Do you think a MC rebuild kit and/or new brake lines are warranted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted July 9, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2018 1 hour ago, k1c said: Thanks Duc. Will do, and flush/bleed as well. Do you think a MC rebuild kit and/or new brake lines are warranted? MC rebuild kit is a good idea and lines are always up for debate, depending on the year and condition of the rubber. Personally I went with new stainless steel lines when I got my 5 Gen a few years ago. I actually flushed/filled all the fluids after I took possession of it, mostly because I had no idea of if/when the fluids were ever changed. For the record, the clutch/brake fluid looked like a strong cup of coffee! As for me, I did a caliper rebuild on all 3 calipers but felt the MCs were still in decent condition, can’t say the same for the calipers, hence the rebuild kits. Two of the rear pistons were pretty bad, had huge nicks in them and these were starting to tear up the seals. Gummed up the pistons so badly, the rear brake was pretty much useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted July 9, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2018 4 hours ago, Duc2V4 said: I’d check the MC and make sure the fluid looks clean and that the hole at the bottom of the MC isn’t blocked. What he said... 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelF Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 If the reservoir ran dry you might need to bleed at the upper banjo bolt, air likes to hide there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer k1c Posted July 14, 2018 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 14, 2018 We'll, I emptied the master cylinder and cleaned out the old brake fluid, and a small amount of gunk, and then poked a bristle into the little hole at the bottom of the cylinder, which seems to be patent. The brake lever is still flopping around like a dead fish. I have decided to replace the caliper seals and any moving parts in the MC and reflush. I have a BikeMaster vacuum bleeder and was considering installing speed bleeders. Would anyone know if the Goodridge #SB8125 SpeedBleeder the right one for this bike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFROZ Posted July 14, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 14, 2018 If it was the caliper seals, you would have fluid running out all over the calipers. I can nearly guarantee you it is caused by an air lock on your top banjo, this has happened to me and many others who own VFR's. Top up the master, install lid and remove it from handle bar. Now angle it so the banjo is the lowest point and quickly operate the lever many times while you give it a good shake. You will feel when resistance returns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer k1c Posted July 14, 2018 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 14, 2018 BINGO! Or shouldI say BANJO?!! Thanks VFROZ. One wrinkle though. I removed the MCfilled up with brake fluid, replaced the cap, turned the banjo fitting to the bottom and pumped and shook, and pumped and shook, and pumped and shook. Still nothing. It did not seem that the MC piston was moving correctly, so I reached in with a pair of needle nosed pliers and started to move it up and down. After about 30 "pumps" the pressure returned to the lever like magic. Topped off the brake fluid again and now I have brakes again! Still thinking about the SpeedBleeders as the brake fluid is a tea-ish color. Anyone know if the Goodridge #SB8125 items would fit? Thanks Again for all the input. VFR forums just ROCK! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted July 15, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 15, 2018 1 hour ago, k1c said: BINGO! Or shouldI say BANJO?!! Thanks VFROZ. One wrinkle though. I removed the MCfilled up with brake fluid, replaced the cap, turned the banjo fitting to the bottom and pumped and shook, and pumped and shook, and pumped and shook. Still nothing. It did not seem that the MC piston was moving correctly, so I reached in with a pair of needle nosed pliers and started to move it up and down. After about 30 "pumps" the pressure returned to the lever like magic. Topped off the brake fluid again and now I have brakes again! Still thinking about the SpeedBleeders as the brake fluid is a tea-ish color. Anyone know if the Goodridge #SB8125 items would fit? Thanks Again for all the input. VFR forums just ROCK! The 8125 is the correct one but if you can find the 8125L, not LL, the nipple is just a tad longer than the standard 8125. The longer nipple allows the bleed hose to stay put better than with the non L version. Note the the LL is meant for the PCV bleeder that is under the seat, so you would still need at least one of those. Two are only required for ABS model bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted July 15, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 15, 2018 check your VFRD email inbox.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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