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knock on rev


anth85

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Did my 2004 ABS a few months back used EBC HH and yes all 3 sets are same EBC part number.

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3 hours ago, manoil said:

Did my 2004 ABS a few months back used EBC HH and yes all 3 sets are same EBC part number.

 

Ok mea culpa:blush:. Confusion reigns supreme or old age!

 

Checked what I fitted to my 2004 non ABS and yes all sets are the same FDB2098ST (Ferodo). Interesting for the 2004 ABS the OEM part numbers are - Front 06455-MCC-006 and Rear is 06435-MAT-016 !

 

EBC state that for 2006 to 2013 Front is EBC FA388HH Rear is EBC FA261HH

 

What I fitted to my 2009 were Ferodo FDB2196ST front and FDB2098P rear.

 

Can assure you the 8gen is different, TOKICO front calipers and a NISSIN rear caliper - Front Pads EBC FA390HH, Rear Pads EBC FA488HH.

 

Hope that clears the air a little!:comp13:

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When I was shopping for brake rebuild kits for my VFR last November I noticed something changed around 2005 with the calipers that rebuild kits for those would not fit 2002-2004 ABS models.

 

Perhaps this is where they undersized the rear caliper because of too much rear brake bias? That’s my only thought there. 

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2006-2009s use a different casting that captures the pads ‘better’ or at least differently than previous years.   

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  • 3 weeks later...
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18 minutes ago, anth85 said:

just to bring this back up, the noise is still there, slightly more muffled than before but definitely not resolved by putting the snorkel back in

 

Hi anth85.

Had a listen again to your noise and it's definitely the same noise I noticed on my 6gen after I had removed the snorkel. After refitting the snorkel I couldn't hear it.

Wonder if it's the noise of the flapper solenoid control valve activating and resonating through the air box which it is mounted to. You say you've disabled the flapper, but have you unplugged the solenoid control valve, try removing the electrical plug and see if you still get the popping noise, can't think of anything else it could be.

Cheers.

 

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1 minute ago, Grum said:

 

Hi anth85.

Had a listen again to your noise and it's definitely the same noise I noticed on my 6gen after I had removed the snorkel. After refitting the snorkel I couldn't hear it.

Wonder if it's the noise of the flapper solenoid control valve activating and resonating through the air box which it is mounted to. You say you've disabled the flapper, but have you unplugged the solenoid control valve, try removing the electrical plug and see if you still get the popping.

Cheers.

 

I haven't unplugged the solenoid. I thought that was in relation to the PAIR system which I haven't touched.

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7 minutes ago, anth85 said:

I haven't unplugged the solenoid. I thought that was in relation to the PAIR system which I haven't touched.

Flapper has a control valve mounted on the right side of the air box and controlled by the ECM. You can pull the electrical plug without causing any Fi malfunction light issues.

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1 minute ago, Grum said:

Flapper has a control valve mounted on the right side of the air box and controlled by the ECM. You can pull the electrical plug without any Fi malfunction light issues.

I'll have a nosey tonight.

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1 hour ago, anth85 said:

I'll have a nosey tonight.

Hi anth85.

Same goes for the PAIR control valve. Try un plugging the electrical connector of that and see if that removes the noise. Reckon it will be one or the other making that popping noise.

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My snorkel never moves and my bike never makes that noise. Could this be a source of my running issues and low idle?

 The snorkel is not a moving part.  

The snorkel (#3) is that forward projecting protuberance leaving the upper right front part of the airbox and which angles downwards at its forward most extreme. Some remove this in the belief that the airbox "breathes" better. It certainly increases intake noise.

 

The part that moves is a trapdoor found on the upper left forward-facing part of the airbox. It is vacuum actuated facilitated by a valve (#8) and solenoid. It's a somewhat unrefined solution to air-petrol mixture requirements as the air pressure and engine requirements vary according to RPMs and actual forward motion. The latter "forcing" more air in due to supposed higher relative pressure outside the box being lower when slower and higher when you're going faster. We've all heard of ram air systems ramming the air in.

 

I personally think Honda haven't measured the pressure differentials where it matters and hence my reference to it as unrefined.

 

The trapdoor, commonly known as the "flapper", is responsible for the "tock" noise one hears at low speeds/rpms as it opens and closes, usually when setting off or manoeuvring around a carpark, for example.

 

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Thanks, I worded incorrectly it’s my flapper that doesn’t work. 

 

Im thinking of replacing that unit because my low RPM issues, but in reality it isn’t going to make much of a difference.

 

the way I understand it is that my bike is running lean from start to 4K RPM’s (it surges). I replaced all rubber parts and it still runs like garbage below 4K RPM. Unresponsive. Above 4K it runs and rides like a dream.  

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got round to sorting this. Been away loads recently and when I have had time to do it the tank has been full so very heavy to lift. Removed the cable to the flapper solenoid, re-removed the snorkel and removed the cable to the pair valve. Knock has now gone. It must have been one or the other but I cant say which.

 

For the pair valve, I'm going to do some research now, but what does the cable to the pair valve do? Will that default the valve to shut or to open? If it's open then I presume it's going to need something like a marble to block it.

 

I also removed the actual flapper metal lifter and double sided taped the movable plastic down (open). Didn't really see the point in leaving it there and now there is an extra opening into the airbox, not that I think it's lacking that regardless.

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2 hours ago, anth85 said:

Finally got round to sorting this. Been away loads recently and when I have had time to do it the tank has been full so very heavy to lift. Removed the cable to the flapper solenoid, re-removed the snorkel and removed the cable to the pair valve. Knock has now gone. It must have been one or the other but I cant say which.

 

For the pair valve, I'm going to do some research now, but what does the cable to the pair valve do? Will that default the valve to shut or to open? If it's open then I presume it's going to need something like a marble to block it.

 

I also removed the actual flapper metal lifter and double sided taped the movable plastic down (open). Didn't really see the point in leaving it there and now there is an extra opening into the airbox, not that I think it's lacking that regardless.

PAIR Control Solenoid is controlled by ECM and has no error codes. With NO voltage to the Solenoid the valve is shut, so no airflow from the airbox through the valve to the outlet ports, = no air injected into the exhaust ports.

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Just remove the entire PAIR system and use a set of Mello Dude's block off plates to seal up the valve chamber.

 

My 08 VFR800 had this mod, along with O2 eliminators, flapper & snorkel (yes, I liked the increase in intake noise when I opened the throttle :wheel: :cool:) removal and ran much, much better at low revs/low throttle settings than when standard. You could ride in on the throttle at 1500rpm, manoeuvring/turning without the use of the clutch.

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1 hour ago, Grum said:

PAIR Control Solenoid is controlled by ECM and has no error codes. With NO voltage to the Solenoid the valve is shut, so no airflow from the airbox through the valve to the outlet ports, = no air injected into the exhaust ports.

Nice, this is exactly what I was hoping for. 

 

18 minutes ago, Skids said:

Just remove the entire PAIR system and use a set of Mello Dude's block off plates to seal up the valve chamber.

I'll look at this next, still getting my head round working on a bike, it's my first and whilst I've done loads to cars the confined space is something new to me. 

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