Urbanengineer Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 Hello everyone. The engine is running much better now after the starter valve sync, but I seem to be still having minor issues. I cant get the idle to 1200 rpm. It will max out around 950 Rpm or so, and it won’t get any higher (when warm). I replaced all rubber hoses connecting to the throttle bodies. When I try and adjust it higher, it won’t raise and throttle operation “hangs” like it is running lean. What gives? TB’s are secured to the intake boots. Second question. What voltages are you guys seeing at Idle and at speed? I see 13.6-14.5 when riding at 4,000+ RPM and only 12-13.2 when idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urbanengineer Posted July 2, 2018 Author Share Posted July 2, 2018 I should add, I recently did a valve adjustment and had to go back in and recheck timing/clearances. After the re-check everything seems to be correctly oriented and in specification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Driver Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 You didn't say if you were using the idle set knob/screw on the right side of the bike or trying to adjust it directly on the throttle bodies. Several years ago i had the same issue when using the knob. It turned all the way to the stop and the idle speed was still too low. Turns out turning the knob wasn't actually transferring the position to the throttle bodies. It was binding or something. I adjusted the set screw on the throttle bodies and unstuck the cable to the knob while i was in there and problem solved. At 5K rpm I see 13.9 to 14.3 V, depending on what accessories I've energized. It's been there consistently since I put the voltmeter on 10 years ago. 33K miles and original stator and reg/rec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted July 2, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 2, 2018 I run a voltmeter on my 6th gen and it's steady at 14.6v from 1,200 rpm idle on up. It shows the battery at 12.8v with key on, engine off. The R/R is original, stator was rewired by Custom Rewind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweeper Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 The idle adjustment knob attaches to a small threaded rod at the front of the throttle bodies. On mine, that rod would not turn from being too dry I guess. A shot of lube fixed it. Sorry, I don't have a picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urbanengineer Posted July 3, 2018 Author Share Posted July 3, 2018 Alright color me confused. The manual says it is to be adjusted only using this knob. 3 hours ago, Hawkeye Driver said: I adjusted the set screw on the throttle bodies and unstuck the cable to the knob while i was in there and problem solved. I look at my VFR and I don't have this nut. Probably my issue. When I adjust the knob it turns something on the wax unit lower, not this. 3 hours ago, Cogswell said: Custom Rewind Perhaps I'll have him rebuild mine over the winter. 1 hour ago, Sweeper said: The idle adjustment knob attaches to a small threaded rod at the front of the throttle bodies. On mine, that rod would not turn from being too dry I guess. A shot of lube fixed it. Sorry, I don't have a picture. I can't seem to find an exact photo. Is it either of these pictured above? Or is it a small set screw near the cable actuated bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urbanengineer Posted July 3, 2018 Author Share Posted July 3, 2018 Hmmmmmmmmmmmm I see this on a "how to remove VFR TB's" youtube video. I could adjust it but typically things that are white paint marked are not to be touched. Anyone find a reason I shouldn't adjust it with this set screw? The VFR does have 43k miles on it. Not surprising I have to work on it a bit, but it sure is frustrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urbanengineer Posted July 3, 2018 Author Share Posted July 3, 2018 1 hour ago, Sweeper said: The idle adjustment knob attaches to a small threaded rod at the front of the throttle bodies. On mine, that rod would not turn from being too dry I guess. A shot of lube fixed it. Sorry, I don't have a picture. See my above photo. Is this the "small threaded rod at the front of the throttle bodies?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 3, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted July 3, 2018 Hi Urbanengineer. The nut you say is missing is from the shaft of the Fast Idle Wax Unit. If that's missing can't see how your fast idle could operate. Not uncommon for the warm idle adjust cables to gum up. The tip of the cable acts on the fast idle link plate and uniformly opens or closes the starter valves for base warm idle settings. Just for info - The 8gen charging voltage is rock solid at 14.5v (has a very different R/R compared to the 6gen) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urbanengineer Posted July 3, 2018 Author Share Posted July 3, 2018 16 minutes ago, Grum said: Hi Urbanengineer. The nut you say is missing is from the shaft of the Fast Idle Wax Unit. If that's missing can't see how your fast idle could operate. Not uncommon for the warm idle adjust cables to gum up. The tip of the cable acts on the fast idle link plate and uniformly opens or closes the starter valves for base warm idle settings. Just for info - The 8gen charging voltage is rock solid at 14.5v (has a very different R/R compared to the 6gen) I realize now I'm turning the screw as pictured by sweeper but it may be binding. Will look into it. Look at Mr. Fancypants here with his modern VFR that honda fixed the charging issues on :D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweeper Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 Its been a couple of years and it was dark and I was at TMAC so I'd had a couple of beers but I think this is where mine was gummed up. It's under the wax unit where the idle screw cable threads through the mount. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urbanengineer Posted July 3, 2018 Author Share Posted July 3, 2018 3 minutes ago, Sweeper said: Its been a couple of years and it was dark and I was at TMAC so I'd had a couple of beers but I think this is where mine was gummed up. It's under the wax unit where the idle screw cable threads through the mount. Hope this helps. I watched another video, I think this is the bit you are talking about. I'll spray the area with lubricating fluid to try and get it free. I haven't touched that area yet so I'd believe you are correct. Why didn't I do this while it was all apart 🤦♂️... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweeper Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 That's the one. It's a pretty grimy place for a threaded adjuster. We thought my idle was adjusted to the stop but it was just not turning any more due to the crud. Good luck with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urbanengineer Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 Well, I tried cleaning it out and such, but it would only raise the revs to 1050 or so. Fuck it. I put the bike together and will revisit this in the winter of 2018 > 2019. I just wanna ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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