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adkfinn's 5th gen 20yr refresh


adkfinn

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Back to suspension work - I have the rear shock fitted and have had a few short rides. What. A. Difference. It is night and day, you can feel it from the moment you get on the bike. I haven't had the time to get out on any real long or challenging rides but am planning to next week. I'll give a more detailed review once I have some more seat time. 

 

After dropping the exhaust, I pulled the stock Showa shock and suspension link plates and here is what I found (after de-greasing and wire brushing :

 

20190620_182729.jpg?dl=0 

 

This was the outward facing sides, not too shabby right? Well flip them over and here's the carnage on the inward facing sides:

 

20190620_182719.jpg?dl=0

 

It looks like some rocks/debris has gotten caught in the link plates over the years. Amazingly, the needle bearings and seals are in excellent shape with no visible signs of wear and tear. I cleaned the seals, needle bearings, sleeves, etc and re-greased everything to get it ready for re-assembly. But what to do about these link plates?... I decided to flip them and run the clean faces in and the chewed up faces out. I also decided it was prudent to give them a little cleaning up. The markings are on both sides and if you flip L-->R and R-->L the geometry and orientation remains correct. 

 

Ready to go back on the bike with the new DMr BD40 rear shock-

 

inward faces:

20190620_211317.jpg?dl=0

 

For what will become the outward faces I didn't file or grind off the damage, just sanded and polished to clean them up (mostly because I had decided to sand/polish the inner faces to help preserve the life of the seals and it seemed wrong to only do one side of these plates. Outward faces:

 

20190620_211328.jpg?dl=0

 

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With the plates ready to roll it was time to install the new shock. Not sure what is recommended but I was able to do this with the tank lifted and not off the bike, fyi. There was enough room to get a standard socket and 3/8" drive wrench in to loosen/tighten the top nut under the tank with it lifted and propped up. With the new shock in place I could move on to the reservoir mounting. Disclaimer - Jamie provides a single worm-drive clamp and rubber pad with the shock. It is sufficient to get it mounted but I used a few other bits as well. I began by mocking up the location with the tail fairing off and then installing it with the reservoir fitted in place. 

 

20190620_180639.jpg?dl=0

 

I have no idea why this pic is appearing upside down, it looks fine on my phone, in dropbox, google photo, etc... apologies. 

 

As you can see, I added a few heavy duty zip ties, some rubber from a bicycle tire tube, etc. to keep the reservoir in place. It looks worse naked as the tail fairing hides the frame, most of the mounting bits, etc. I'll add some pics of the finished install soon. I am planning on starting work on the front forks tonight after work. 

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16 hours ago, jimmyp said:

How much do you think you've spent freshening it up, besides suspension work.

I haven't really kept track... I could probably come up with an estimate. I will say that I intend to keep this bike for the long haul and sticking to a budgeted figure wasn't part of the plan. Also, most of the parts cost is comprised of items that were not required, if I paired it down to just those parts it'd be a different story. In addition, my enjoyment of motorcycles is so much more than just riding. I find learning the history of the bike, reading the FSMs, and wrenching/tinkering/farkling very satisfying and therapeutic also. In all honesty even if I bought a new bike I wouldn't be able to leave it alone and having nothing to work on would be disappointing. In fact, now that I am nearing the completion of my plans for this VFR I am already on the hunt for my next project. 

 

Loose whack at a tally:

 

VFR800                                                   $2k

DMr suspension                                     $1200

Goodridge hoses                                    $ 300

Harris hugger                                         $ 280

Roadstercycle R/R                                  $ 163

used headlight                                       $ 100

projectors, ballast, bulbs                       $ 400

Factory Pro shift kit                               $ 216

AS3 hoses & clamps                              $ 194

Black Widow end can                             $ 260

Smoked tail & indicators                        $ 200

COP conversion                                      $  32

Sargent seat                                           $ 100

PCIII                                                        $ 100

adj levers, tank pad, Stompgrip             $ 108

Honda parts (total ballpark)                   $ 400

supplies related to the work                  $  50

late 5th gen mirrors                               $  55

ProBolt goodies                                     $ 100

          total                                      ~  $6,260

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36 minutes ago, RossR said:

Where did you find a PCIII for $100?

I had a 'wanted' post here and on VFRW last year and ended up making a great deal with MooseMoose from this board for a PCIII complete with original box/stickers/paperwork/etc. I couldn't remember the exact price, a quick look at my old messages shows it was actually $120. Point being, if you are in the market, post up here and VFRW, save a search on ebay and enable notifications, and with a little patience and luck there are some good deals to be had. This is the same way I managed to get a Sargent seat on the cheap also (that one actually came from ebay not the forums). 

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1 minute ago, adkfinn said:

I had a 'wanted' post here and on VFRW last year and ended up making a great deal with MooseMoose from this board for a PCIII complete with original box/stickers/paperwork/etc. I couldn't remember the exact price, a quick look at my old messages shows it was actually $120. Point being, if you are in the market, post up here and VFRW, save a search on ebay and enable notifications, and with a little patience and luck there are some good deals to be had. This is the same way I managed to get a Sargent seat on the cheap also (that one actually came from ebay not the forums). 

Thanks!

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Here is the DMr BD40 rear shock all tucked away with the bike back together:

 

20190629_155433.jpg?dl=0

 

20190629_155421.jpg?dl=0

 

Overall the reservoir mount and fit is good. I like the way it turned out. I also decided it was the perfect time to add a hugger in order to protect the new shock from debris coming off the tire. When I originally tore this bike down this area, including the top of the swingarm and rear of the engine/transmission, was filthy with gravel/asphalt bits/etc. I had some concerns about having enough room over the chain guard but I compressed the snot out of the rear suspension while stationary and it seems to clear. I will possibly tweak this further and try to move it back a bit but the small crossbar of the subframe is an obstacle to easy fitment, pic (not mine) for reference:

 

s-l1600.jpg?dl=0

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Next up was pulling the forks and installing the DMr cartridges. I opted to suspend the front of my bike while on the center stand rather than support it from underneath. Using a couple of sturdy hooks and ratchet straps I was able to easily lift the front of the bike and keep it very steady for this job:

 

20190629_155554.jpg?dl=0

 

20190629_155619.jpg?dl=0

 

20190629_162637.jpg?dl=0

 

I positioned the bike ahead of the lateral plane of the hooks and crossed up the straps so that not only are the straps stabilizing the bike left to right, they are also pulling backwards to help keep the bike against the centerstand stop, firmly in place. Bonus - by doing this the straps also cleared the windscreen and also allowed plenty of room to pull the clipons. 

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Now I was ready to begin my tear down. I highly recommend @HispanicSlammer's thread on re-valving if you need a reference point, it is pretty comprehensive and covers a few good tips and tricks that help with the process - 

 

 

I left all the bodywork on the bike, it was easy to work around it with no issues. Pull the brakes, the wheel and axle, the clipons, loosen the four bolts in the triple tree and in a few minutes you'll have the forks out and ready to work on:

 

20190629_165110.jpg?dl=0

 

20190629_165041.jpg?dl=0

 

Everything to this point came apart easily with no issues. No stuck bolts, no unforseen complications. My fork tubes look great, little to no pitting, scratches, or other wear. The rust you can see from the lower triple tree was just stuck on top of the finish and cleaned up easily. I've had the bottom bolt on Honda forks from other bikes be a HUGE PITA in the past and I was expecting that this bike be similar but they broke free and came out without fuss. I am not sure what god to thank here, but the it seems the stars aligned on this job. Here is my super custom 6mm hex wrench tool:

 

20190629_165442.jpg?dl=0

 

Bootyfab for the win! This is just a regular 'L' shaped hex tool in vise grips. My other crap trick for these bolts is to just cut the long section of one of these hex wrenches and then drive it with an impact and the corresponding socket... works a treat. Anyway, after that bolt is out you can easily pull the fork caps, drain the fluid, and in no time you'll end up with this pile:

 

20190629_183013.jpg?dl=0

 

 

 

 

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This is why you should change your fork oil and service them at the recommended interval and immediately upon taking ownership unless you have actual maintenance records and receipts from the previous owner:

 

20190629_190949.jpg?dl=0

 

20190629_190835.jpg?dl=0

 

Filthy, cruddy, old fork oil. In my experience most owners, even the diligent ones, skip all the maintenance (forks, brake & clutch fluid, carbs/FI, vacuum lines) that isn't familiar (like oil changes) or visible (like tires, brake pads, chain & sprockets). Despite this the bushings were in pretty respectable shape with the only noticeable wear on the guide bushing, the slider bushing looked good:

 

20190629_191019.jpg?dl=0

 

The fork seals and dust cap were another story. They were definitely starting to get skanky and I am glad these parts are now replaced:

 

20190629_191216.jpg?dl=0

 

Here's the fork oil in all it's filthy glory:

 

20190629_194518.jpg?dl=0

 

20190629_194549.jpg?dl=0

 

See how dirty? Also, notice all the little sparkly metal bits... oof. If I had been panning for gold this would've been an exciting moment, too bad. This job was way overdue, I shouldn't have ridden like this even as long as I did. Here are the factory parts necessary to overhaul your forks (note - you also need 2x 51412-MB4-003 and another 51490-MN8-304, I had these on hand but they didn't make the photo):

 

20190629_190036.jpg?dl=0

 

I didn't take any good pics of the new DMr parts or the install. Jamie's stuff comes with good directions and they are a better reference for that work. I will say that everything went together nicely and this was a very easy and satisfying job where nothing went astray, I didn't accidentally break anything, etc. so it was a bit different than my normal experience. There were a few tools I used that I think helped make this job smooth and easy, as pictured:

 

20190630_102046.jpg?dl=0

 

micrometer to measure the fork height in the tree, FSM for the relevant torque specs for re-assembly, the motion pro fork oil level tool made setting the oil level a breeze, and the magnetic 'getter' because the damping rod is shorter than the fork tube and is unreachable when fully compressed. Here's a shot of the cockpit all buttoned up and ready for a test ride:

 

20190630_171436.jpg?dl=0

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Brief initial thoughts on DMr suspension front and rear - WOW. The bike is so stable, just planted. The ride is firm and sporty (exactly what I asked for), brake dive is all but eliminated, cornering is noticeably different/improved/comfortable with way less movement and wallowing. I am going to put some real mileage on the bike this week that will include a variety of riding and conditions and I'll write a more thorough report once I've had enough time to really experience it, but this morning's commute was impressive to say the least.

 

What's next? I think the HID headlight work (bi-xenon projector install) might be next. Until then, happy riding!

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On 7/1/2019 at 10:42 AM, adkfinn said:

Brief initial thoughts on DMr suspension front and rear - WOW. The bike is so stable, just planted. The ride is firm and sporty (exactly what I asked for), brake dive is all but eliminated, cornering is noticeably different/improved/comfortable with way less movement and wallowing. I am going to put some real mileage on the bike this week that will include a variety of riding and conditions and I'll write a more thorough report once I've had enough time to really experience it, but this morning's commute was impressive to say the least.

 

What's next? I think the HID headlight work (bi-xenon projector install) might be next. Until then, happy riding!

I installed LED H4 bulbs in a couple of my fifth gens with great results. I bought Super High Output H4 LED Motorcycle Headlight Kit 6000 from HighPerformanceBulbs.com. A company representative verified they would work for my application. There is a picture of the install in my gallery. Some details of the advantages also.

 

Here is a link for information:

 

http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/h4-cree-led-bulb-headlight-bulb-super-bright-motorcycle-kit.html

 

I also had a Dmr suspension upgrade done on my 2001 and have had the same fabulous results as you. Makes steering nearly telepathic.

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35 minutes ago, MaxSwell said:

I installed LED H4 bulbs in a couple of my fifth gens with great results. I bought Super High Output H4 LED Motorcycle Headlight Kit 6000 from HighPerformanceBulbs.com. A company representative verified they would work for my application. There is a picture of the install in my gallery. Some details of the advantages also.

 

Here is a link for information:

 

http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/h4-cree-led-bulb-headlight-bulb-super-bright-motorcycle-kit.html

 

I also had a Dmr suspension upgrade done on my 2001 and have had the same fabulous results as you. Makes steering nearly telepathic.

Thanks MaxSwell, I already have some decent quality LED's fitted in the factory location. They are bright for sure, but the glare is a little bit much for my tastes (i get flashed occasionally) and they aren't as good as a nice set of HID's in my opinion. In short, my plan is to install good quality  35W bi-xenon projectors and some nice Osram D2S bulbs, no halos or other gadgetry. The trickiest part will likely be parking the ballasts and wiring somewhere out of the way and clean looking.

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18 minutes ago, adkfinn said:

Thanks MaxSwell, I already have some decent quality LED's fitted in the factory location. They are bright for sure, but the glare is a little bit much for my tastes (i get flashed occasionally) and they aren't as good as a nice set of HID's in my opinion. In short, my plan is to install good quality  35W bi-xenon projectors and some nice Osram D2S bulbs, no halos or other gadgetry. The trickiest part will likely be parking the ballasts and wiring somewhere out of the way and clean looking.

Look in my gallery to see where I parked the ballasts using double-sided tape.

I'm curious about how your planned install works out. Please let me/us how it works out.

 

I've never been flashed in several years of long-distance riding.

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25 minutes ago, MaxSwell said:

Look in my gallery to see where I parked the ballasts using double-sided tape.

I'm curious about how your planned install works out. Please let me/us how it works out.

 

I've never been flashed in several years of long-distance riding.

Will do, I plan on keeping this thread up to date as I continue to ride and wrench.

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9 hours ago, adkfinn said:

Thanks MaxSwell, I already have some decent quality LED's fitted in the factory location. They are bright for sure, but the glare is a little bit much for my tastes (i get flashed occasionally) and they aren't as good as a nice set of HID's in my opinion. In short, my plan is to install good quality  35W bi-xenon projectors and some nice Osram D2S bulbs, no halos or other gadgetry. The trickiest part will likely be parking the ballasts and wiring somewhere out of the way and clean looking.

You guys might want to read this article and watch the video.

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

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2 hours ago, RossR said:

You guys might want to read this article and watch the video.

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

Can't argue the science, yet life seems to have a way of showing us everything is not black and white (pun intended - night/day :goofy:).

 

I have a HiD-Xenon bulb in my VFR1200F; never been flashed yet, it's much more obvious (safer) than the standard incandescent and has more than enough strength and coverage for night riding.

 

I fitted a set to my old 08 VFR800, and they were the same.

 

So whilst I agree with the principle, it appears you can 'get away with it', though obviously it can be hit and miss as to the outcome.

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Hey Skid,

 

Nice pun! Absolutely true when there is a solar eclipse.

 

I would have no problem with anybody arguing the "science". We have been conditioned to believe that science is always right, and that scientists always adhere to scientific method and are honest when they publish studies, and the truth is that it's absolutely not true. In this case though, I believe that Daniel Stern is correct. His business is selling bulbs, and he is telling us NOT to do it. How much more honest can a man be in this age of marketing hype?

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/HID.html

 

I can't argue that HID gives you better lighting than halogen or LED. Laser might be the next thing if they can bring the price down.

 

 

Not having been flashed does not necessarily mean that the oncoming driver was not dazzled by your lights. It just means that they did not flash you. Where I live, every man and his dog think that they have to have a huge American truck ("a pickup", to you guys across the Pond) or an SUV with high headlamps. I constantly get get dazzled by their legitimate headlights and also by late model sedans (with possibly misaligned or modified lights). I don't flash back because they probably would not understand why I flashed. The standards of driving (and Motorcycle riding) and car maintenance in Canada in general, (and particularly in Alberta where there is no annual safety inspection) are extremely low compared to Europe because of lax driving tests, especially in the farming Provinces where you can start driving at 16. Graduated licences were only introduced fairly recently.

 

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10 hours ago, RossR said:

You guys might want to read this article and watch the video.

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

RossR, I am very familiar with Daniel Stern Lighting, he is a great resource. I think you misread my post though - I am planning on installing true, high quality bi-xenon projectors and HID bulbs, not just HID bulbs in the halogen reflector (something that I haven't and don't have plans to do). Also, part of the reason I am upgrading from the LED bulbs in the stock housing is due to glare. The light output of the LED's I have installed is pretty damn good, but it isn't as well controlled as I'd like. The retrofit I am planning should bump the light output into the 'outstanding' range from 'pretty damn good' and also will have a much sharper cutoff, eliminating any glare/dazzling effect for oncoming traffic or vehicles/bikes in front of me. I have retrofitted and upgraded the lighting in most of my vehicles over the past 10 years, this isn't my first rodeo.

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7 hours ago, adkfinn said:

RossR, I am very familiar with Daniel Stern Lighting, he is a great resource. I think you misread my post though - I am planning on installing true, high quality bi-xenon projectors and HID bulbs, not just HID bulbs in the halogen reflector (something that I haven't and don't have plans to do). Also, part of the reason I am upgrading from the LED bulbs in the stock housing is due to glare. The light output of the LED's I have installed is pretty damn good, but it isn't as well controlled as I'd like. The retrofit I am planning should bump the light output into the 'outstanding' range from 'pretty damn good' and also will have a much sharper cutoff, eliminating any glare/dazzling effect for oncoming traffic or vehicles/bikes in front of me. I have retrofitted and upgraded the lighting in most of my vehicles over the past 10 years, this isn't my first rodeo.

Please don't misunderstand my post. There was no intention to criticize you. I started researching LED and HID after reading your post and came across the article and embeeded video and thought that it was an interesting read as you did mention that you were getting flashed with just the LED installed.  You have done an outstanding job on this thread and your restoration and I am looking forward to all your updates, especially about the HID install as it's something that I hope to do in the future.

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4 hours ago, RossR said:

Please don't misunderstand my post. There was no intention to criticize you.

No worries, no offense taken, just wanted to clarify my plans for the headlight.

Also, I missed your earlier question - I have almost 28k on my bike.

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Brief suspension update now that I've ridden 500 miles or so - 

 

The DMr setup front and rear is amazing, it truly transforms the bike from stock (especially for 200+ lb riders like me I suspect). Install was seamless and Jamie's initial setup based on the info that I sent him feels great. The bike is so settled at lean compared to before, it is uncanny. For me, the differences are so drastic that I feel like I am re-learning how to ride this bike. Behavior is improved across the board. No more brake dive, no more wallowing and shifting in corners... it is just settled, stable, and predictable. I am looking forward to riding it more and fully dialing it in. 
 

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