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flapper mod causing higher temps in traffic?


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I was wondering if you think having the flapper mod is wise in very hot weather? I may be over-thinking it but if the bike is running leaner below 5k rpm's, which is what I am at 95% of the time in town, then hooking it back up may be wise. Any thoughts?  I know this mod reduces low to mid range power and therefore is not a wise decision anyway but It does fix the slow speed. When it is hooked up if I am not careful with the throttle I feel like I am on a vomit ride at the fair.

thanks

Joel 

I have been wondering if going up two teeth on the front and hooking back up the flapper would create the perfect 1st and second gear driving. More grunt from the flapper and longer gears and less grunt from the +2. 

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Hi Joel.

Can honestly say, your bike will be more effected by how dirty your air filter is than what the Variable Air Intake System is doing. I doubt that you could attribute this system being removed, or disabled, to greater engine temps.

It's interesting to note that Honda have removed this system from the 2017 8gen model.

I have completely removed all the associated hardware of this system on my 2014 8gen, mainly to just clear a lot of clutter from under the tank, (see below link).I can only subjectively say that my bike is as good if not better under all riding conditions without it. 

 

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My opinion on the flapper mod has always been that it only achieves loses and no positives. 

Going +2 on the front is equal to -6 on the rear, a bit excessive. 

Make sure your chain is adjusted correctly and if you have the funds, install a PCV. 

A much better way of addressing this. 

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1 hour ago, Grum said:

Hi Joel.

Can honestly say, your bike will be more effected by how dirty your air filter is than what the Variable Air Intake System is doing. I doubt that you could attribute this system being removed, or disabled, to greater engine temps.

It's interesting to note that Honda have removed this system from the 2017 8gen model.

I have completely removed all the associated hardware of this system on my 2014 8gen, mainly to just clear a lot of clutter from under the tank, (see below link).I can only subjectively say that my bike is as good if not better under all riding conditions without it. 

 

So I assumed that my bike is running too lean with it disconnected with the addition of the new K&N filter that I put in 500 miles ago. At least below 5k rpm's or when ever the flapper opens. I do like the idea of removing crap not necessary. I also have to remove the California Emissions, and think I have a pretty good post favorited about how to do this. It is a post for a 5th gen so I am not sure if it is the same on the 6th gen. I was hoping that someone had upped the front sproket 2 teeth and liked it cause I find it a bit of a pain to shift through so many gears just to ride at 35mph. I mean I am in 4th gear most of the time. That's a lot of shifting just to be tooling around town. I know you guys like to lower the gearing.  I mean what is the point in getting more pull from your throttle if you just have to shift even sooner than you already do in stock.  I did forget to plug the line when I removed the flapper last time.....My bike runs superb. The clunking is not an issue anymore but the short gears and excessive engine breaking are a minor complaint. Maybe an exhaust would make it so I don't mind running up the rpm's higher. I don't like to complain about the bike but it sounds like a 4 cylinder hyundai to me. 

Thanks

Joel

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1 hour ago, VFROZ said:

My opinion on the flapper mod has always been that it only achieves loses and no positives. 

Going +2 on the front is equal to -6 on the rear, a bit excessive. 

Make sure your chain is adjusted correctly and if you have the funds, install a PCV. 

A much better way of addressing this. 

yeah you are probably right but I didn't want to just go up one and not see much difference. These are big pigs so the fact that my 0-60 time might go down a half second doesn't really bother me. I would much rather get it to a point where I was able to comfortably go 40mph and stay in 3rd gear.  I assume you meant that the PCV would cure my lean running situation by increasing richness and possibly helping the bike cool itself a little. Correct?  

thanks

Joel

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1 hour ago, exwifeschewtoy said:

So I assumed that my bike is running too lean with it disconnected with the addition of the new K&N filter that I put in 500 miles ago.

How have you determined your bike is running too lean? Nasty word that "assume" can make an ass out of and me.!

 

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1 hour ago, exwifeschewtoy said:

yeah you are probably right but I didn't want to just go up one and not see much difference. These are big pigs so the fact that my 0-60 time might go down a half second doesn't really bother me. I would much rather get it to a point where I was able to comfortably go 40mph and stay in 3rd gear.  I assume you meant that the PCV would cure my lean running situation by increasing richness and possibly helping the bike cool itself a little. Correct?  

thanks

Joel

 

Correct, the PCV will address fuel issues and smooth out response.

Also make sure your throttle cables are properly adjusted.

If you go to "Gearing Commander" you will get answers to gearing changes to your bike.

 

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26 minutes ago, Grum said:

How have you determined your bike is running too lean? Nasty word that "assume" can make an ass out of and me.!

 

no I was speculating due to the k$N filter, combined with the fact that bikes are generally factory lean to pass emissions as well as the noticeable change in driving characteristics when the flapper is wide open was suggesting that it was getting too much air to fuel ratio's.....

Just speculating not announcing. 

Thanks

Joel

yes, I watched "Bad news Bears too when I was a kid" 

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14 hours ago, VFROZ said:

 

Correct, the PCV will address fuel issues and smooth out response.

Also make sure your throttle cables are properly adjusted.

If you go to "Gearing Commander" you will get answers to gearing changes to your bike.

 

both my throttle cables have been thoroughly lubed and adjusted for 3mm play. I chased a sticking throttle for 2 days just to ultimately find that my rubber grip was catching hard on the bar end. One of those "I am a dumb-shit" moments. After trimming a bit off the rubber it snaps back with lightening speed. Learning experience. 

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15 hours ago, Grum said:

How have you determined your bike is running too lean? Nasty word that "assume" can make an ass out of and me.!

 

I am not sure after reading some posts if I did the flapper mod correctly. All I did was unhook the vacuum line and stick it to the side of the airbox and forgot to plug it up. I "assumed" that the door was open and not shut. I thought I remember seeing it open and thinking that it must close via vacuum as soon as the bike is started and then reopen at a certain RPM range. I see that guys are taking the flapper door off. Does that mean that mine is open or closed right now? 

 

I have a sixth gen. 

Also, If I start taking off the California Emissions do you think If I get stuck somewhere that guys here will know how to help?

 

Here are the directions but they are for a 5th gen. 

 

- First -- shit can the evap canister that is in front of the oil filter.

- Next there is a roughtly 3/8th inch hose that runs from the can to a solenoid valve on the right side of the bike. Shit can it.

- On the solenoid valve itself... unbolt it and there is a connector on it, unplug it, tape it up and stuff it into the bike.

- Unbolt the solenoid itself... also shit can it.

- There is another 3/8 inch diameter hose that runs from the solenoid to under the tank and connects to to a 4 way plastic connector with 4 smaller hoses to it.

- Prop the tank up so you can get in there to work.

- What you are trying to do is mimic the 49 state hose routing, so.......

- With each smaller hose on the 4 way connector... you will need to pull them off the connector and....

- If you look at the side of the airbox, you will see 4 round tabs on the box, 2 on each side.

- Match a small hose to one the tabs on the side of the airbox, and trim the length so it fit in there neatly.

- Do that times 4... 4 small hoses trimmed to length to each tab on the airbox.

- Shit can the roughly 2 foot length of 3/8th inch hose leftover -- the one from the solenoid to the 4 way plastic hose connector.

- Zip tie up hoses neatly and then button up the tank.

-- Your done... go get a beer.

courtesy of Mello Dude. 

 

Thanks

Joel

 

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The first thing I'd recommend is to loose the aftermarket air filter and put an OEM in.  Due to my lack of memory, I can only recall a recommendation against them. A search of the site may prove me wrong. Let me know it that is so. 

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3 hours ago, MaxSwell said:

The first thing I'd recommend is to loose the aftermarket air filter and put an OEM in.  Due to my lack of memory, I can only recall a recommendation against them. A search of the site may prove me wrong. Let me know it that is so. 

UUGH....I paid 55 bucks for that!  Ok, I will research it a bit. 

thanks

Joel

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5 hours ago, MaxSwell said:

The first thing I'd recommend is to loose the aftermarket air filter and put an OEM in.  Due to my lack of memory, I can only recall a recommendation against them. A search of the site may prove me wrong. Let me know it that is so. 

 

Agree with MaxSwell here. And this is no doubt going to create a lot of conjecture, just like what oil do you use! However, my K&N filter gladly went with my last bike I sold. Only used the K&N for a short time, didn't like the soft rubbery fit into the air filter housing, and the smaller surface area, the OEM also looked a better stronger constructed filter. I'm not getting into arguments about airflow and stuff.

I have for 14 years simply cleaned the OEM's and re-fit. I blow off any lose crap, spray them with soluble de-greaser, wash them off with clean water, dry them out, and before fitting apply a very light spray of filter oil. I know this might go against the religion of some people, however it has worked fine for me over the last 14 years, and I'm confident the filter is doing its job well. I also rotate my two OEM filters through the bike every second service. YMMV.

Cheers.

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My current ride came with a K&N. (And an mouse nest in the airbox!). So the engine performance obviously improved with the nest cleanup. After I sold the Staintune and PC2 it came with I got rid of the K&N. So I cannot evaluate the filter change but the machine is running like it's famous Swatch Watch-like smoothness. (BTW, I had the valves checked for the first time last month at 56,006 mi. All in spec.)

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