JimF777 Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 Friend is riding about 1.5 hours to my place so we can swap in new clutch plates on his '08 1000. Will looking through the service manual and it's a pretty funky clutch design, from the case cover that does not require a gasket, to the 30mm nut that they hammered a dimple into to lock it onto the shaft and you are to replace it every time it comes off. So looking for any advice from those who have tackled it before. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 Pretty much all older CBR clutches are the same. You should not need the clutch tool to remove the nut if you have an impact wrench. You can reuse the 30MM nut. That punch just makes it more like a lock nut without the nylon ring. Don't try to remove the basket. Just leave it on the bike. Build the clutch and disks on your work bench and then slide it into the basket. You may need to wiggle the basket to get the spline to line up. I would apply a thin coat of Permitex on the cover... Just in case. Do it now instead of later. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC1237V Posted May 25, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 25, 2018 Good advice! Make sure you "un-stake" the nut as best you can before removal, and yes an impact will have it off quickly. If I remember correctly I just re-torqued with the bike in gear, and staked the new nut. Plan to do an oil change at the same time, unless he just did one....... Make sure to coat your clutch plates in oil. Some people soak them overnight, some just assemble them wet, but make sure they are completely coated - no dry spots. Follow the instructions in the manual and you should be fine. Hondabond, or Yamabond semi-drying compound is also good on anything that can leak oil, as it always stays gooey and keeps a nice seal. A thin coat on each surface just before assembly will do. Torque gently in sequence per the manual, first finger tight, then wrist-tight, then to spec. Takes about 2 hours taking your time, plus any fairing difficulties............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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