htx Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Hey guys! Decided to change the clutch discs on my 2000 VFR800, but I stumbled upon a disconcerting rattle from the center clutch holder. Here's a video showing it: https://youtu.be/QWM_CKk6BKc The other thing is that the bike does a little bit of rattle if in neutral AND first gear and the sound seems to be coming either from the clutch cover or from the driving sprocket. So, how screwed am I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted May 20, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2018 this does seem NOT normal, how screwed I would not know. My 4th gen and RC51 clutch basket was "tight", not rattling.... Fingers crossed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htx Posted May 20, 2018 Author Share Posted May 20, 2018 Mine is tight too - the rotation is smooth and it doesn't wiggle back and forth. The clunk feels like metal on metal and you can feel the vibration in your finger tips while doing the motion I am in the video. Looks like I'll have to acquire the clutch basket holder tool, so I can disassemble the bike further... here's to hoping it's just a bearing or something cheap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted May 20, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2018 The nut can be undone w/o the special tool.... Unstake the nut Put in gear and -have someone- apply the rear brake then proceed to undo the nut and the same in reverse. I managed this solo, but a extra pair of hands (and a centre stand) make life easier/safer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted May 20, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2018 Not sure (only know on the VTR1000-SP) if the clutch basket on the VFR drives the oil pump via a chain-sprocket. The back of the clutch basket has "notches" that grip the sprocket. I take it you have the workshop manual that describes in detail how to dis and reassemble the clutch basket no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted May 20, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2018 The gear that drives the clutch from the crank is a split-style, spring loaded to take up the slack that can cause noise. If the clutch outer is incorrectly installed without loading up the spring tension in the drive gear, it will cause a bit of a rattle. But you won't know until you pull the clutch cover off and take a look in there. If you do take the clutch out out, you will need a clutch holder tool (although these can be pretty cheap). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htx Posted May 21, 2018 Author Share Posted May 21, 2018 14 hours ago, Dutchy said: The nut can be undone w/o the special tool.... Unstake the nut Put in gear and -have someone- apply the rear brake then proceed to undo the nut and the same in reverse. I managed this solo, but a extra pair of hands (and a centre stand) make life easier/safer Tried doing that with a friend on the rear brake, but he couldn't apply enough pressure to it to stop the rear wheel from turning, even with his entire weight on the pedal. In my mind, that's likely due to the combined braking system of the VFR - part of the pressure you're creating by stepping on the rear brake is going to the front calipers. Didn't try with him holding the front brake as well, though. I also don't like this method, as it puts quite a bit of strain on the whole drivetrain (transmission, chain, sprockets) - the service manual says it should be torqued to around 127 Nm, which is a lot after all. 12 hours ago, Terry said: The gear that drives the clutch from the crank is a split-style, spring loaded to take up the slack that can cause noise. If the clutch outer is incorrectly installed without loading up the spring tension in the drive gear, it will cause a bit of a rattle. But you won't know until you pull the clutch cover off and take a look in there. If you do take the clutch out out, you will need a clutch holder tool (although these can be pretty cheap). I don't think the clutch holder basket has been out of the bike, but then again you can never know - I'm not the first owner. I've already ordered the removal tool and we'll see what I'll find there once it's off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted May 21, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 21, 2018 Too bad it did not work for your; but nothing wrong with more tools in the shed The spring loaded gear is a good avenue to explore. Here you see the "notches" the back of the clutch basket must grip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted May 21, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 21, 2018 There is also a bushing and roller bearing in the clutch that are easy enough to replace if needed. I did that on my VTR1000F as it had some movement (and noise). On my VTR I still have noise, and I think it is loose spring tension in the hub damper of the clutch outer. Apart form the noise the clutch works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htx Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 Thanks for the high-res photos, Dutchy! Didn't know the VTR also uses gear-driven camshafts. I've attached a photo of my own too! 😛 As you can see, my bike also has the chain driven oil pump attached to the gear behind the clutch basket, so I expect it would be a similar configuration to the VTR, once I delve deeper. The tool should come in about a week (that's what you get when you order something from the UK to Bulgaria...). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted May 22, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 22, 2018 Ahh... that inside looks more like the inside of my RC35-2/ (or as they call it here, 4th gen...) Not sure -but others do chime in- if you must lock the gears (or mark them with a pencil) to avoid anything going "off". If you have the shop manual read carefully and also check out the parts fiches if you are in any doubt as what sits where (or as you disassemble, a part is missing...) https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/moto-honda-identification-VFR800FIY-10465.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted May 22, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted May 22, 2018 On this fiche https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-4833-13MBGW41-VFR800FIY-2000-E__0500-VFR+800.html the judder spring (#6) is not listed.... The concave side should face the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htx Posted June 1, 2018 Author Share Posted June 1, 2018 So um yeah, managed to pull everything I could off the shaft and the rattle is still there. Here's a video. Not sure what to do at this point... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFROZ Posted June 2, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2018 Deleted original post as I was wrong. The play is in the gearbox.Not sure what would cause it, but it doesn't look or sound right. Put it in gear and do video again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFROZ Posted June 2, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2018 Also check your front sprocket for play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htx Posted June 4, 2018 Author Share Posted June 4, 2018 There is a bit of play in the front sprocket, not more than I've seen on other bikes in gear though. Decided I'm just gonna put the bike together and ride it like that. The sound does seem to come from the gearbox, but frankly I don't have the tools nor the time neccessary to disassemble the entire bike apart, so I can get to the transmission and see what's going on there. If the issue worsens, I'll update this thread to describe my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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