Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Anyone have a Pro Evo Shift Kit? 

 

Here is the link...I think I have gotten about as good at shifting as I am gonna get and my bike still clunks too much for me. I have to accelerate fast with a perfect blip to the throttle to have no clunk.  Slow driving is a clunk nightmare. I feel as though I am driving an old truck with a three on the tree tranny. 

Otherwise I absolutely love my bike but this is just irritating. 

 

Here is the add 

http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodh91.html

 

I hate spending money on stupid stuff so if this qualifies, just let me know. 

 

thanks

Joel

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The shift kit is one of the best mods I've done. And maybe the best if you consider cost. Requires a bit more effort but you're rewarded with very precise shifts. Makes the bike much more enjoyable

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I second this.  best mod I've done.

Turns clunky shifting to smooth shifting.

Be very meticulous putting it back together.

 

Paul in SoCal

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the 2-3 hours install the site claims accurate?  Are there any parts that will jump out when I unbutton it?  I always worry about a washer or spring or something popping out as I remove a cover or something and me not being able to see where it went.  

 

last question

did you guys add a slip clutch at the same time?  I am really not liking the excessive engine braking on this thing as well. I am getting used to it but I have had the tire slide out a bit when I was trying to catch a light and make a left hand turn and was a little late getting on the throttle. Back tire slid sideways about 8 inches on me before it caught and straightened out. 

 

thanks

Joel. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, exwifeschewtoy said:

Is the 2-3 hours install the site claims accurate?  Are there any parts that will jump out when I unbutton it?  I always worry about a washer or spring or something popping out as I remove a cover or something and me not being able to see where it went.  

 

last question

did you guys add a slip clutch at the same time?  I am really not liking the excessive engine braking on this thing as well. I am getting used to it but I have had the tire slide out a bit when I was trying to catch a light and make a left hand turn and was a little late getting on the throttle. Back tire slid sideways about 8 inches on me before it caught and straightened out. 

 

thanks

Joel. 

 

 

I was doing other work so I don't remember how long this particular install took... I agree with others, it was definitely worth it!  Not hard, just be patient and careful.  I actually bought two and have the other sitting in a box on my work bench waiting to go into my project bike.  Factory Pro shifter and the clutch are on opposite sides of the engine so its not like a "while you in there change the clutch" kinda job... if you find a slipper clutch for a VFR let me know :goofy:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Rush2112 said:

 

if you find a slipper clutch for a VFR let me know 

 

Someone make one, but i think i remember it was close to $1000, and a PIA to set up just right. 

 

5 hours ago, exwifeschewtoy said:

Is the 2-3 hours install the site claims accurate?  Are there any parts that will jump out when I unbutton it?  I always worry about a washer or spring or something popping out as I remove a cover or something and me not being able to see where it went.  

 

last question

did you guys add a slip clutch at the same time?  I am really not liking the excessive engine braking on this thing as well. I am getting used to it but I have had the tire slide out a bit when I was trying to catch a light and make a left hand turn and was a little late getting on the throttle. Back tire slid sideways about 8 inches on me before it caught and straightened out. 

 

thanks

Joel. 

 

Or you can blip the throttle to match the rpm's needed.

 

Shift kit makes a big difference on a 5th Gen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sigma, you were working with a guy from isle of mans with a super sweet 750

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2-3 hours is about right

 

 

 

clutch7.thumb.jpg.6d6cbdf7cda91577ffcd3c66a09ea737.jpg

 

 

clutch8.thumb.jpg.1ed5ab0d56cbc147b496bf9d73aeb948.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There doesn't seem to be much difference on the shift star except a bit less peak on the ends.

I wonder if you can do the same by grinding a bit off the original one.

I must say my 5G has no problems shifting, and it's actually a lot better than most other bikes I have ridden, except for some of the top notch latest weapons.

Any bike can be clunky if you shift crap, but can be smooth if your timing is right.

I cam mostly shift without clutch after second without anything but a click as it goes in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Rush2112 said:

. if you find a slipper clutch for a VFR let me know :goofy:

Hey Rush, Sigma in the UK make these 🙂 Been around for ages, as per Gig's note they are about $1000 (£650 here) last time I looked. They are fairly simple to setup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was going to jump on this, but at AU$1000 or round about, makes it way over the top.

It certainly gives you an idea of what great value for money the new 765 Street Tripple R is

If it only came with a fairing, even a half one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, VFROZ said:

There doesn't seem to be much difference on the shift star except a bit less peak on the ends.

I wonder if you can do the same by grinding a bit off the original one.

I must say my 5G has no problems shifting, and it's actually a lot better than most other bikes I have ridden, except for some of the top notch latest weapons.

Any bike can be clunky if you shift crap, but can be smooth if your timing is right.

I cam mostly shift without clutch after second without anything but a click as it goes in.

I'd have to agree with this, my '99 shifts fine with no false neutrals or hard shifting. Clutch is really not needed most of

the time, although I do use it most of the time, but it's pretty much an option.

 

I think proper shifting is the key. I think the main problem with the OP is not matching engine speed to gear and road speed

when letting out the clutch. Especially if he's dropping more than one gear before letting out the clutch. Matching engine

speed when dropping more than a couple gears can be hard to do without lots of miles and shifts. Also letting the clutch out

too slowly will cause issues with proper speed matching. IMO it just takes lots of practice. But I did ride lots of years when

a person used the engine braking because brakes were pretty shite. So I have gotten used to doing it.

 

Honestly IMO, if you're not racing or riding really hard a slipper clutch is a crutch that masks poor technique. JMO of course.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
47 minutes ago, FJ12Ryder said:

I'd have to agree with this, my '99 shifts fine with no false neutrals or hard shifting. Clutch is really not needed most of

the time, although I do use it most of the time, but it's pretty much an option.

 

I think proper shifting is the key. I think the main problem with the OP is not matching engine speed to gear and road speed

when letting out the clutch. Especially if he's dropping more than one gear before letting out the clutch. Matching engine

speed when dropping more than a couple gears can be hard to do without lots of miles and shifts. Also letting the clutch out

too slowly will cause issues with proper speed matching. IMO it just takes lots of practice. But I did ride lots of years when

a person used the engine braking because brakes were pretty shite. So I have gotten used to doing it.

 

Honestly IMO, if you're not racing or riding really hard a slipper clutch is a crutch that masks poor technique. JMO of course.

Yes, I do have luck shifting at slow speeds occasionally but it is only about 10% of the time. I can shift much easier if I am accelerating fast. I am borderline driving like an a--hole though which is not ideal. 

Is there any tips that will help with shifting at low rpm's and not being "clunky"?

thanks

Joel

I would really like to be able to drive slow and enjoy myself. I would be embarrassed to have a rider on the back with me clunking all over town. lol. 

 

What I don't understand is, if it is shifting technique then why does my bike clunk hard when I shift into first at a stop light? It clunks and rocks forward an inch or so. 

Could this be a warped steel plate in the clutch?

I would rather replace the clutch then add a shift kit because i don't think something is right here and I want to fix something that's wrong instead of adding new stuff. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should at least bleed the clutch, or even better, dismantle the slave, master cylinder, push rod and give them a good clean.

It will always clunk into first when stopped, but will be worse if your clutch is not disengaging properly.

Hence the bleed and clean suggestion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/18/2018 at 5:53 AM, VFROZ said:

There doesn't seem to be much difference on the shift star except a bit less peak on the ends.

I wonder if you can do the same by grinding a bit off the original one.

I must say my 5G has no problems shifting, and it's actually a lot better than most other bikes I have ridden, except for some of the top notch latest weapons.

Any bike can be clunky if you shift crap, but can be smooth if your timing is right.

I cam mostly shift without clutch after second without anything but a click as it goes in.

 

I can shift without a clutch on lazy Sunday rides all day no problem... my bike had false neutrals and I felt the shifts on hard acceleration could be improved and the Factiry Pro Shift Kit delivered that improvement. I’m not the original owner so I don’t know if the shifting deficiencies were inherent to the bike or developed over time.

 

+1 on Oz’s recommendation for clutch maintenance... while you’re there, throw in a shift kit 😉

An abnormally heavy clunk entering first means you clutch is likely dragging, bleed with fresh fluid and clean; also, your plates could be glazed and sticking

Edited by Rush2112

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I figured out why I have so much trouble with clunking. User error. I was pulling in the clutch all the way. Now I only pull it in half way. I am also waiting longer to shift. More like at 5k and above. I still suck a little at doing three things at once, but getting better at synching all three body parts in unison to create a better shift. I am now not hearing the clunk over half the time while shifting up from 1st gear. I can live with the clunk in first as I believe it is probably normal at my 7500 miles. It is going to rain here for a few days so I will tear apart the clutch and see if anything is worn, after I see if the dealer has the gasket in stock. I will at least scuff up the plates too and would like to put in EBC or Barnett springs to stiffen up the clutch a bit. Not the 100 pounder's but something in the middle would be fine.  I gotta get my back ordered rear sprocket in so I can get this stretched chain off my bike before it gets me killed.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, exwifeschewtoy said:

Ok, I figured out why I have so much trouble with clunking. User error. I was pulling in the clutch all the way. Now I only pull it in half way. I am also waiting longer to shift. More like at 5k and above. I still suck a little at doing three things at once, but getting better at synching all three body parts in unison to create a better shift. I am now not hearing the clunk over half the time while shifting up from 1st gear. I can live with the clunk in first as I believe it is probably normal at my 7500 miles. It is going to rain here for a few days so I will tear apart the clutch and see if anything is worn, after I see if the dealer has the gasket in stock. I will at least scuff up the plates too and would like to put in EBC or Barnett springs to stiffen up the clutch a bit. Not the 100 pounder's but something in the middle would be fine.  I gotta get my back ordered rear sprocket in so I can get this stretched chain off my bike before it gets me killed.  

Hi Joel.

You seem to be going around so many circles, slipper clutch, springs, pro evo, etc, etc. Yet the most fundamental issue to sort out (apart from riding technique) with supposedly "clunky" shifting would be a stuffed or maladjusted chain/sprockets or possibly starter valve synch.

Why not re assess your bike Once you have replaced the chain and sprockets?????? Before diving into the clutch housing. These bike are not known for their "clunky" transmission, quite the opposite. Only My Thoughts.

Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, exwifeschewtoy said:

Ok, I figured out why I have so much trouble with clunking. User error. I was pulling in the clutch all the way. Now I only pull it in half way. I am also waiting longer to shift. More like at 5k and above. I still suck a little at doing three things at once, but getting better at synching all three body parts in unison to create a better shift. I am now not hearing the clunk over half the time while shifting up from 1st gear. I can live with the clunk in first as I believe it is probably normal at my 7500 miles. It is going to rain here for a few days so I will tear apart the clutch and see if anything is worn, after I see if the dealer has the gasket in stock. I will at least scuff up the plates too and would like to put in EBC or Barnett springs to stiffen up the clutch a bit. Not the 100 pounder's but something in the middle would be fine.  I gotta get my back ordered rear sprocket in so I can get this stretched chain off my bike before it gets me killed.  

 

Dude, if you have 7500 miles on the bike I doubt there is anything wrong with your clutch... leave it alone to you figure the other stuff out.

Have you been trying to do wheelies?  High rpm launches? Quarter mile runs?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am not working right now and I like to work on the bike. I don't see the harm in opening up the clutch and seeing what I find. I have a caliper to measure and compare with the clutch specs in the manual. I will do the chain and sprockets first as it is a safety issue, and may explain some of the sounds. I did the front brakes and bled the interlinked system , which is good because the fluid in some of the lines was as dark as Pepsi.  Even with messing with my bike a lot I still manage to ride a couple of hours per day.  

 

Joel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's an old saying: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, FJ12Ryder said:

There's an old saying: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Thanks......point taken.

Joel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hope I didn't sound harsh, wasn't meant that way. Sometimes you can try too hard to make everything perfect. 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got a Sigma slipper clutch in mine, as well as the shift kit and both are great.

I do not believe either are going to help with the clunky shift.

 

Oil is the main culprit to this.

If it hold on to the clutch plates then the gear change is going to clunk.

 

Try different oils until you find one that doesn't do it so bad.

 

Down here I'm using Penrite 10W-40 Synthetic PAO Ester and so far that is the best I've found.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, FJ12Ryder said:

Hope I didn't sound harsh, wasn't meant that way. Sometimes you can try too hard to make everything perfect. 🙂

No I didn't take it that way. I get a little OCD when I get into things. I am using this bike to heal myself after a brutal divorce so I gotta keep working on it or I am left to my nasty thoughts. I really needed this bike. 

thanks

Joel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
46 minutes ago, HighSideNZ said:

I've got a Sigma slipper clutch in mine, as well as the shift kit and both are great.

I do not believe either are going to help with the clunky shift.

 

Oil is the main culprit to this.

If it hold on to the clutch plates then the gear change is going to clunk.

 

Try different oils until you find one that doesn't do it so bad.

 

Down here I'm using Penrite 10W-40 Synthetic PAO Ester and so far that is the best I've found.

 

Actually I can't afford a slipper clutch. The idea sounded real nice about it controlling the engine braking better but I got major sticker shock when I found they were over a grand. I am not going to do the shift star either. I can live with the clunk. It doesn't sound like it is hurting the bike which was my main concern. I am going to open the clutch to take a look see. Never know the previous owner may have scorched the plates up. Chances are it is fine but if it needs something no big deal. Like I said, I like to tinker. I don't give you guys crap for trying to make this big pig of a bike lighter and lighter. Which to me is funny. I mean to me, those guys should have just bought a cbr1000rr and put risers on it.....if they wanted a light touring bike. It is only costing me $17 bucks for a gasket to open it up and take a peek. Not worth razzing me about. 

thanks

Joel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.