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ABS malfunction on 2016 bike.

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Hi (fellow sufferersūüėú), I'm experiencing a problem with the ABS system on my (UK reg. year '16 DCT) bike and am looking for some serious (p**s-takers and Clever Dicks, please walk on) input from other members that may have experienced a similar problem too. The bike's still under warranty ( it's 3 years on the BIG VFR) but before I again make the 160 mile round trip to my favoured Honda dealer for another ( of which, more later *) diagnostic¬† read-out, I'm hoping there may be a simple solution that I can fix myself. I should say that though the bike is 2 years old it only had 350 miles on the clock when I bought it this April and the fact that it must have been standing for 2years or so may have some bearing on the fault which is as follows...When setting off on a ride-out the ABS light goes out at 6mph/10kph as normal, but, come the first junction/stop when applied,¬† the front brake lever pulses quite strongly a couple of times then the system seems to go into non-ABS mode. This is quite unnerving in the wet since, as the lever goes 'dead', the instinct is to grab even more brake! After a few more miles the ABS light starts blinking and, whilst it does,¬† the system definitely goes into non-ABS mode which is predictable and quite manageable.

*I've already presented the bike at a Honda main dealers once where they accessed the fault codes stored in the ECU. They said they, the codes, were showing a 'spike' (?) and they had cleared the codes but pointed to the fact I had a GoPro camera and a GPS device both hard-wired into the bikes electrical system.  They seemed to think this may have some bearing on the problem. I find this hard to believe since the camera is fully charged but rarely used and everybody else with a GPS never seems to encounter any issues and, if anything, the  Honda heated grips, when in use, must draw more current than everything else put together.  Anyway, I rode home but after 20 miles or so the ABS warning light was blinking again.  This weekend I intend to examine 3 possible areas which could be the cause of my woes; the gap and condition of the sender units on both wheels, the  condition and cleanliness of ALL the fuses and also remove the 'Middle Panel' to make sure that the large plug on the ABS unit itself does not have any 'dry' connectors. That only leaves the unit itself and other than try a substitute replacement I have no idea what to do about that. 

Your thoughts Gentlemen, please.

 

NICE BIKE.jpg

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Under the seat next to the breaker box you have a red service plug. Get service manual and read the fault codes. At least you will know which weel is the issue. Or if it is low power issue.

 

Since you have a DCT be awared that DCT won't change gears if ABS is off.

 

 

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Not too familiar with your bike, but there have been ABS issues caused by a battery down on charge. Are you sure your battery is in good health? You did mention the bike had been left standing for two years, this would probably destroy your battery!

Also wonder if disconnecting the battery for a while might just reset things. Also make sure battery connections are good and tight.

Just a thought.

Good luck.

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agree on the battery causing a code.  But, you need to see what code it's showing to understand what's happening or wrong.  Without it, you're really shooting in the dark.  Did the Honda dealer tell you the specific code it was showing?  Don't think the hard wire devices would cause the ABS light to come on.  If your electrics are good, it could either be a wheel speed sensor or the ABS module, all of which have specific codes to help diagnose to the cause.  

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On 5/9/2018 at 5:49 PM, c5ip said:

agree on the battery causing a code.  But, you need to see what code it's showing to understand what's happening or wrong.  Without it, you're really shooting in the dark.  Did the Honda dealer tell you the specific code it was showing?  Don't think the hard wire devices would cause the ABS light to come on.  If your electrics are good, it could either be a wheel speed sensor or the ABS module, all of which have specific codes to help diagnose to the cause.  

 

Thanks for your interest c5ip. At the last dealer visit the fault code indicated that the tyre pressures were out of spec'. Yes, really. That's what I was told! (Nothing registered, re - the module).  They may have been a few pounds up, but, having just ridden 80 miles to the dealers on a hot day that was to be expected. The pressures were re-set to 36/42lbs and off I went up the road. 6 miles and the ABS is blinking again. I've cleaned the speed sensors and checked the gaps (both on the lower limit; .020"/ .05mm). Checked the fusses under the seat and monitored the generator's charging rate (14.5 volts). Re-set the (cold) tyre pressures too. I'm pretty sure the module's good because when it is working (testing under heavy breaking) I can feel the lever 'pulsing' so it seems to be an intermittent fault in the 'initiation' circuitry. I'll try another battery next before I start dicking about with the module.

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If the generator power is good as indicated, then the battery should NOT be called on to supply any power during normal use, EXCEPT when at idle ! Most bike circuits don't have enough capacity at low revs, so this may explain the "1st Junction" scenario !  Just load test the battery, any bike/car center should have a load tester. Just take it out of the baike & down to your nearest friendly car service center & it takes about a minute !   If the battery tests good, the lack of power will have caused a complete ECU/ABS system reset, which would be advisable before trying to diagnose further anyway.

 

If either wheel sensor was faulty, the ABS light would NOT clear when you set off. Tyre pressures would have to be well out to cause a wheel speed sensor discrepancy.

Some of the newer systems use the wheel sensor as the speedo input which can cause issues on chain driven bikes if you change gearing, but not an issue on shaft drives. Because the wheel speed at both ends stays the same, but the speed registered per ABS Ring rotation goes out, when compared to the presets in the system. Pointless, as ABS really should NOT need a speed input, wheel speed at each end is relative & all that really matters.

 

 

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Hello Gringo,

 

 

My last name HAS the word DICK in it (and yep during my 4 years in Scotland that was the source of manier joke on me), so nothing wrong with Dicks OK:goofy:

 

I can fully relate to you being pissed off, having bought a new vehicle. I was one of the first "lucky" ones with a VW Tigiuan 1.4Tci........   Whilst all the crap (too long to list) was covered (lease car), it put me off VW long before they got caught with their pants down.

 

 

Here goes:

 

- Indeed clean the ABS ring/sensor (doubtful but hey, nothing ventured) and check fuses and wires/connectors between altenator, voltage regulater and battery for discoloration/melting

-have the battery load tested (any car garage should be able to do that for you)

-if in any doubt, just buy a new YUASA (ignore the higher than cheap crap price)

-If you can, set the idle RPM a tad higher and see if that makes a difference (generating a bit more juice for the 1st junction)

If that solved it but you need to set the idlle too high:

-Do "the Drill" is you own and know how to use a multimeter to measure the alternator Resistance and Vac output over the pairs of 3 yellow wires. Let us know what you measure at idle and at 5,000rpm. Normally we do this with the engine well heated up, but your issue happens cold.

With all this measuring out ok, then the ABS unit itself becomes my suspect.

 

 

do post up what you find, in the mean time we'll keep our minds rolling on waddafukishappening :goofy:

 

 

 

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Found 1 case on the Dutch VFR forum where the cable that plugs into the rear wheel sensor had been rubbing on a bolt and had ever so slightly worn through, causing a short and the ABS fuse to blow

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Why not try new brake fluid?  The owner's manual says to do it every two years, so you're due. 

 

I purchased a new 2010 DCT leftover in 2017 and had all kinds of crazy brake problems until a simple brake fluid change.  The fluid was ancient in my case, so the obvious place to start troubleshooting. 

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