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No spark. Burnt stator?


Thrownjungle

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I have a 2004 vfr800. I had issues with the r/r. I put a new OEM one on it along with a new battery . Now it just turns over but wont start.  If my stator is burnt, would it cause a no spark condition? I thought maybe my ecu was fried. I bought a new one and it still wont start. Any help would be highly appreciated.

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Your VFR would start without a stator as long as the battery was charged.

Before spending money on any more new parts you should do some thorough troubleshooting.

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No. There is no fuel pump noise when I turn the ignition on. There doesnt seem to be any power getting to the fuel pump relay. 😕 I downloaded the service manual for my bike, but I only have a cheap multimeter. The manual troubleshoots everything using a peak voltage adapter. Im not the smartest when it comes to electrics so forgive me.  If the IPG is shot, that wouldnt cause no spark + no fuel. Would it?

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Trouble shooting the Fuel Pump ops is generally!!!! not too difficult, just need to follow some simple steps.

Assuming the bike cranks over then your KILL switch is in the Run Position!

Firstly - Check the state of your Main Fuse B 30amp. Also have a good look at its terminals for overheating and burnt wiring. If that is OK. then you will need to do some voltage checks.

 

So - From the Battery, Fuel Pump power comes through Main Fuse B, then through the Normally Energized (with Ignition ON) Engine Stop Relay, then to the Fuel Pump Relay. The ECM controls the Fuel Pump Relay by switching a ground (earth/negative) to energize it, then the relay sends 12 volts to the Fuel Pump.

 

You need to raise the Tank and hook your voltmeter to the Fuel Pump and verify 12v at the pump for a second or two when your ignition is turned ON. Failing that Identify the Fuel Pump Relay and verify you have a constant 12v available on the input to the relay when Ignition ON. Also on initial turn on you should hear the relay click on for a second or two then off.

 

Its easy to establish a faulty fuel pump simply by unplugging its electrical connector and providing 12v to it from your battery with a couple of test wires, you should hear it running. 

 

That's enough to get you started, lets know how you get on.

Cheers

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12 hours ago, Thrownjungle said:

The manual troubleshoots everything using a peak voltage adapter. Im not the smartest when it comes to electrics so forgive me.  If the IPG is shot, that wouldnt cause no spark + no fuel. Would it?

No.

You are getting too deep regards peak voltage adapter - Not necessary for trouble shooting the Fuel Pump. As previously stated, provided you have a healthy battery your bike should start OR at least, the Fuel Pump should prime.

 

You say you have replaced the R/R. Have you also unplugged the Alternator lead (3 yellow wires) and checked that there are NO shorts to ground from any of the wires.?

 

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My main 30amp fuse is still good. The connector looks fine also. There is no voltage at fuel pump connector. I hooked the connector back up and ran a straight 12v to the brown wire. The pump works fine. So next, I checked the voltage at fuel relay and got nothing. The FI light doesnt come on and go off like its supposed to. The engine stop relay clicks when ignition is switched on/off. I will check the 3 wires coming from r/r next. 

 

IPG- Ignition pulse generator

 

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Your getting there!. You have at least isolated your Fuel Pump as not part of the problem.

 

Have you checked that ALL fuses are O.K.?

 

The voltage you say is missing at the Fuel Relay is also a major 12v supply to the ECM. This could explain why your FI Light is not coming on as you expect.

 

With NO 12v at the Fuel Relay you need to follow this back to the Engine Stop Relay. You should have a permanent 12v at the Red/White (or Black/Pink depending on your bike version) wire at the Engine Stop Relay.

With Ignition switched to On, (Relay Energised) this 12v should transfer through to the Black/White wire. If you have the permanent 12v at the Relay AND you hear it energise BUT there is no 12v coming through to the Black/White then you most likely have a Faulty Engine Stop relay.

 

Also if you ARE hearing the Engine Stop Relay energise with Ignition to ON, this isolates the Bank Angle Sensor as well as the Kill Switch as not being faulty.

 

If you do NOT have the permanent 12v at the Engine Stop Relay (Red/White or Black/Pink wire). Follow this back to the Battery via the 30 amp MAIN FUSE B. !

 

Also from memory the headlight relays are the same as the Fuel and Engine Stop Relays, so if you suspect a faulty relay you could do a swap.

 

Don't think you need to worry about the Ignition Pulse Generator at this stage!

Good Luck, let's know how you get on.

Cheers.:beer:

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On 4 May 2018 at 2:58 AM, Thrownjungle said:

I have a 2004 vfr800. I had issues with the r/r. I put a new OEM one on it along with a new battery . Now it just turns over but wont start.  If my stator is burnt, would it cause a no spark condition? I thought maybe my ecu was fried. I bought a new one and it still wont start. Any help would be highly appreciated.

Some feedback would also be highly appreciated!

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