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Need Electrical Help


mkrouse

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1999 VFR800FI Excellent condition. Always stored inside.

Died while riding. Not enough battery to restart. Bought a new battery and got it 1/2 mile home. Next day it started once, then did not have enough juice to start again. Turn key and things light up normal.  Multi meter shows 12 volts, but during first start and run, no change in volts. I expected a rise to 13-14. Still show 12 on meter. Somebody point me in the right direction.

 

Previous owner remarks 07/10/15

"Replaced voltage regulator with R1 Shindigen FHA-012. Rewired connections from stator to regulator and ran voltage regulator to battery with new wires."

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Check the power output from the Regulator/Rectifier to the battery. There should be a 30a fuse on the + wire. See if it's blown. There might be a breaker instead, might have to test if it's ok by doing continuity on either side of it. I recently replaced my 30a fuse with a breaker, and I'm not sure what happens if it trips. Maybe it resets automatically, or maybe not.

If the power to the batter from the R'R is ok, then test the stator. Easiest test for that is to unplug it from the R/R and test for continuity to ground by sticking one multimeter lead on one terminal from the stator side of the plug and the other lead to the engine or frame. Do this for each of the 3 wires from the stator. You do not want any continuity between the stator and ground (frame or engine).

If these don't yield anything then you have to go deeper.

Take a look at "The Drill" for testing the charging system

 Roadster Cycle has videos for testing the R/R using a multimeter

 

By the way, I went through this exactly last year. I also had an R1 FH012, so I thought I was bulletproof. It died, and blew the 30a fuse. I didn't check that right away and it totally threw me off for a while. I did the R/R tests and found it dead, but when I installed the new one (FH020) it still didn't charge. Finally figured it out and got the breaker to replace the fuse. Like I said, I'm not totally sure how it works or if it gives an indication that it tripped.

 

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Well, I'm old but dug deeper. Very crispy connection from rectifier to somewhere. Not the battery. Where exactly is the 30a fuse?

Crispy connection.jpg

From rectifier.jpg

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From your pic, the black plug on the right on the bottom of the Reg/Rec. Follow it and I can see the fuse holder inline (I think).

Where do the plugs you are holding come from? Is that the starter solenoid? That is really bad.

The left plug on the R/R is the stator input. It's a 3 phase stator, hence the 3 yellow wires.

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I just went to the garage and took off my seat and tail. I can't see anything on my '99 that looks like that in that area. Did those 2 crispy connectors plug into each other?

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Kevin,

 

The black plug on the bottom right of the reg/rec goes through a 30a fuse to both posts of the battery. Fuse appears good, has continuity. The left plug on the reg/rec with yellow wires goes to the fried connector in my hand. It plugs into the second connector, also fried, and I don't know where it goes. Maybe stator?

 

Guess more disassembly and manual reading. Bike belongs to a friend in NC, planning on coming out in May for a week ride in CA NV UT AZ. I don't want a problem for him crossing Death Valley.

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From the factory the 3 yellow wires leave the sealed stator cover and travel unbroken to the regulator/rectifier.

The charging system in it's simplest form is a closed system. The stator sends 3 phase A/C power through the 3 yellow wires to the R/R. That is changed into 14(ish) volts D/C. With an aftermarket setup such as yours (and mine) that should go directly to the battery + and to the frame as a ground.

That, in my opinion (15 years owning the same '99 VFR) is your goal. Simplify the charging system. You may need to have the stator rewound too. Just because they get burned out with time.

Start at the stator base (remove the left side fairing). Trace the 3 yellow wires. They need to travel unbroken to the R/R. 

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I agree 100% with Squirrelman on this. That 3-pin plug on the 5G is nicely placed to enjoy lots of spray from the rear wheel, the water gets into the plug and starts corrosion. The corrosion increases the resistance of the connection, the resistance leads to heat, the plug body melts and if you are unlucky, the connectors touch and then you burn out the stator or the regulator. Cut that connector out and splice in decent gauge wires (at least as big as what is already there) with heatshrink. 

 

As a paranoid 5G owner with an on-board voltmeter, I was able to track the demise of my connector before it got to the crispy stage, as the normal charging voltage had dropped by 0.5V. Once I cut the connector out, my voltage has been rock steady.

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14 hours ago, squirrelman said:

common problem, and best fix is to cut off the plugs and solder the 3 wire pairs together.

 

LOL, it might even be better to solder the three wire connection individually. 😃

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1 hour ago, VFROZ said:

 

LOL, it might even be better to solder the three wire connection individually. 😃

 

well said and well warned my cautious friend !~   :wink:  my sort of ambiguous confusion can't reasonably be accommodated on this forum.  :unsure:

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Double check your wiring as below - the top is stock and the bottom one is for the rewire. (Ignore the reference to Compufire) And yeah, stator connector has gotta go. 

image.thumb.png.13704b00322a0f501adc79bb67180cd6.png

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12 hours ago, mello dude said:

Double check your wiring as below - the top is stock and the bottom one is for the rewire. (Ignore the reference to Compufire) And yeah, stator connector has gotta go. 

 

Definitely ignore the reference to CompuFire!

 

I just picked another eBay Shindengen SH847 (OEM 2014 Suzuki DL1000A VStrom, pn. 32800-31J00) series reg/rec, which I what I would use for a "state of the art" reg/rec upgrade nowadays.  The easiest way to get the appropriate Furukawa connectors is to buy the Triumph T2500676 wiring harness and solder directly to those wires (without removing them from the connector shells).  

 

Ciao,

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Yes, but the pre-made Triumph lead costs less than $10 online!

 

Ciao,

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Kevin and others, thanks for the guidance. I have not soldered the 3P wires from stator to rectifier/regulator...yet. Figured I'd rebuild the connector, drop of solder on the crimp, and test the stator and charging. I performed the stator test and it appears to be functioning. No damage. The FH012 remains installed. I've been starting and stopping the bike all day, along with neighborhood riding. Probably should get a simple voltmeter to boast my confidence. Thanks again.

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10 minutes ago, mkrouse said:

Kevin and others, thanks for the guidance. I have not soldered the 3P wires from stator to rectifier/regulator...yet. Figured I'd rebuild the connector, drop of solder on the crimp, and test the stator and charging. I performed the stator test and it appears to be functioning. No damage. The FH012 remains installed. I've been starting and stopping the bike all day, along with neighborhood riding. Probably should get a simple voltmeter to boast my confidence. Thanks again.

Check out

www.cycleterminal.com

 

 

 

 

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46 minutes ago, mello dude said:

Check out

www.cycleterminal.com

 

I've used this site, they supply quality parts.

 

I've used Chinese connectors in the past that had less than desirable fit and function. Cycle terminal parts are oem fit and finish. 

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2 hours ago, mkrouse said:

Kevin and others, thanks for the guidance. I have not soldered the 3P wires from stator to rectifier/regulator...yet. Figured I'd rebuild the connector, drop of solder on the crimp, and test the stator and charging. I performed the stator test and it appears to be functioning. No damage. The FH012 remains installed. I've been starting and stopping the bike all day, along with neighborhood riding. Probably should get a simple voltmeter to boast my confidence. Thanks again.

 

I have one of these Gammatronix monitor lights on my VTR1000F, it shows a slow blinking green when the bike is shut off, or slow orange blink if the battery voltage is sagging and needs charging, and when riding a nice steady happy green if all is well, orange if the voltage is dropping and red if it is really low. You can wire it permanently  to the battery, doesn't seem to cause any measurable drain.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-LED-Battery-charge-alternator-level-indicator-monitor-warning-light-lamp-E-/190401283689

 

On my 5G I have a cheap LED voltmeter which is wired through a switched relay (which also powers heated grips). The wires for this run up through the steering head, with some rubber hose to protect against chafing.

 

 

IMG_0992.JPG

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9 hours ago, JZH said:

Yes, but the pre-made Triumph lead costs less than $10 online!

 

Ciao,

Wow i just checked this triumph T2500676  , this is a plug and play OEM thing. Thanks John

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On 3/29/2018 at 8:27 AM, yogisays09 said:

Wow i just checked this triumph T2500676  , this is a plug and play OEM thing. Thanks John

 

Well, it's plug n play if you have a Triumph!  For the rest of us, we would just snip off the Triumph-side connectors and solder the wires into the VFR's existing wiring.  The advantage is that the Furukawa connectors on the reg/rec side are already wired up.  And those same Furukawa connectors work on all of the modern MOSFET and series reg/recs from Shindengen.  

 

(Joe at CycleTerminal.com is great, but taking his website DOWN for the entire holiday weekend is not good business practice!)

 

Ciao,

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6 hours ago, JZH said:

(Joe at CycleTerminal.com is great, but taking his website DOWN for the entire holiday weekend is not good business practice!)

 

Agree with that! Cant even look at it and do a "what if?"    

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4 hours ago, mello dude said:

 

Agree with that! Cant even look at it and do a "what if?"    

+1

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