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5thgendaily

Rear Brake Issue

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Hello Fellow VFR Nuts,

 

As I was riding today the rear brake stopped working. It looks like a plastic piece on the rear set that holds the rear brake light switch has broken.... and upon further inspection it appears that the previous owner tried to plastic weld, or put some type of adhesive previously. I am wondering if this means I need to order a new rear set on the brake side, or should I buy a plastic weld kit and try that again? Besides the broken piece, is there anything else I need to do to make the brake work again? Thanks in advanced for any help or advice.

 

 

Best Regards,

Noobie

20180305_141638.jpg

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I think your options would be to pull the rearset off and get a local welder to fix it (it is not a strength critical area), find a used one on eBay or buy new (but Partzilla shows the piece no longer available :unsure:). I doubt that adhesive would last particularly well. 

 

Hopefully when you ask will that make the brake work again, you mean just the brake light, not the hydraulics!

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You could drill that mount vertically and then safety-wire the switch to it, over and under the adjuster, and then look for a used part at your leisure.

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It's not plastic...

 

And aren't you missing your clevis pin?

 

Rear footpeg hangers should be fairly easy to find on eBay (they are over here); I don't think it's really fixable.

 

Ciao,

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3 hours ago, JZH said:

It's not plastic...

 

And aren't you missing your clevis pin?

 

Rear footpeg hangers should be fairly easy to find on eBay (they are over here); I don't think it's really fixable.

 

Ciao,

 

I was thinking something else like a pin may be missing because of the extreme slack on the brake lever. I'm trying to find the part online, does it look like number 10 in this diagram? Thanks for pointing that out.

 

image?arib=HOM&arim=mrGDv9BBHPaKPZqyeoe8CQ2&aria=jHJyCvumUB_XaBhmYspajw2&zoom=5

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Well spotted JZH!

 

You are missing the pin that connects the brake lever to the end of the pushrod, circled. I can imagine that would feel a bit odd. I'd throw any suitable bolt and locknut on there immediately until the correct part can be purchased. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/46503-MAL-000?ref=9be3a9b702f825f60ae8c4d2f0f4d852856cd855

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Just get rid of the brake light switch and get a pressure activated one. 

Cheap and easy, will connect up to existing plug. 

And and get that clip. 

 

IMG_3788.thumb.jpg.b4783a31071971dd17cd0d67f1f681c5.jpg

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Thanks a bunch Terry, and everyone else. Ordered a new pin and rear set. I just replaced all radiator hoses right before this ordeal, so hopefully she'll be ready for some serious miles next week.

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21 minutes ago, VFROZ said:

Just get rid of the brake light switch and get a pressure activated one. 

Cheap and easy, will connect up to existing plug. 

And and get that clip. 

 

 

VFROZ,

That is a thing of beauty. I have a million questions about your bike... To keep it short, where did you get those rear sets, and what kind of exhaust do you have? Looks immaculate m8.

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Rear set adapters right here on VFRD

 

 

The exhaust is a Delkevic with a Staintune muffler.

I've lost track of how many things have been moded on my bike, I think it's an actual condition that has no known cure.

 

 

IMG_3902.jpg

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Does anyone know what size this swingarm pivot bolt hex nut is? I see the torque spec in my manual, but not the nut size. 

 

 

20180309_154037.jpg

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20 minutes ago, 5thgendaily said:

Does anyone know what size this swingarm pivot bolt hex nut is? I see the torque spec in my manual, but not the nut size. 

 

 

 

Right = 27mm (1 1/16)

Left =22mm

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Any suggestions on how to remove this stripped screw? It's in just about the worst spot. Finally got the clevis pin, a new rearset, and the proper socket to take off the swingarm pivot nut, just hung up on this b****.

20180315_193535.jpg

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Don't quote me on this, but I'm not sure that that bolt has to come off. I seem to recall that it acts more like a locating pin and the footrest bracket just slips over. 

 

If I'm wrong, then you might like to try an impact driver on that bolt first, sometimes the hammer action shocking will break them loose easier. After that you would have to drill the head off the bolt, hopefully what is left will come out easily with pliers.  

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On March 6, 2018 at 3:53 PM, VFROZ said:

Just get rid of the brake light switch and get a pressure activated one. 

Cheap and easy, will connect up to existing plug. 

And and get that clip. 

 

IMG_3788.thumb.jpg.b4783a31071971dd17cd0d67f1f681c5.jpg

VFROZ, 

Thank you for the pressure switch info!!

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3 hours ago, 5thgendaily said:

Any suggestions on how to remove this stripped screw? It's in just about the worst spot. Finally got the clevis pin, a new rearset, and the proper socket to take off the swingarm pivot nut, just hung up on this b****.

20180315_193535.jpg

 

That bolt stays in the frame, it is only a locating bolt to stop the hanger spinning.

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Thanks All! I replaced the rearset with a "new" one from ebay. Brake and brake light working great..... But as I was riding today I noticed my voltmeter reading between 13.1V and 12.8V. at idle! Replaced the R/R with a Mosfet from Roadstercycles about a year ago, along with installing a Shorai battery. The stator is a Rick's and was replaced maybe 3 years ago (only about  6k miles on it). Bike runs amazing when everything is working, but I've dumped so much money in the last year and my frustration is growing. Please talk me out of selling!

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The low voltage may be due to the connector from the stator to the RR; if it still has the stock connector, these get wet, corrode, then the corrosion causes high resistance which leads to lower voltages but will eventually lead to heat/melting. If you've not already done so, pull that one apart and at least clean it, better still cut it our and solder/heat-shrink the wires. You might also want to check the status of the battery terminals and the battery earth connection to the frame.

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