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Lint

Post Crash Vibration

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Hey all.

First, let me say that my bike is running very well. Since the crash, I was able to upload a new map to the Power Commander 2 I have and what a difference it has made. I think before it was running very lean, which may have been a big factor in my high temps. I have a nice gurgle on over-run now that wasn't as noticeable before.

I will b e pulling all the fairings off again to start my Plasti-Dip color experiments, so since my bike did take quite a wallop, I would like to loosen and re-torque all of the engine mounts. The engine is most definitely much more coarse in the vibes, noticeably so. Runs like race bike, but the mirrors are super fuzzy now, where they used to be very clear. I will also be sending my injectors in for cleaning just as soon as I can actually get the one screw out of my velocity stack. Even with a special Japanese screwdriver as recommended by Duc2V4, I can't get it out and I"m afraid it's near to being stripped. Also, while it's naked, I'll double check all electrical connections and grounds as well as change the plugs and balance the starter valves.

So, please correct me if I have my generations wrong, but isn't there a engine mount bolt that is backwards, while all of the others are normal? If so, then which bolt is it? I sure as hell don't want to break it!!! If anyone could guide me in the service manual, I'd be grateful. I'll look right now, but first hand experience goes a long ways, even with the FSM. I looked at the FSM downloaded from here and there is nothing mentioned. Is that just a 6th  gen thing?

Thank you.

P.S. the vibration is most definitely engine related, as it perfectly matches engine rpm.

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Check out Autodip.com. I just found it last week but looks cool. It’s a spray on vinyl wrap. Metallic colors and can be wet sanded and polished.


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And on the velocity stack screw, have someone tap the screwdriver with a hammer while you twist. Worked on mine.


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3 hours ago, Sweeper said:

And on the velocity stack screw, have someone tap the screwdriver with a hammer while you twist. Worked on mine.


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3 hours ago, Sweeper said:

Check out Autodip.com. I just found it last week but looks cool. It’s a spray on vinyl wrap. Metallic colors and can be wet sanded and polished.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks on both accounts.  I'll definitely give autodip a look and I'll try the hammer suggestion. 

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This is how I broke loose some airbox screws in my ST1100. Worked like a charm.

IMG_2471.JPG

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I looked at the service manual, it does say to pay attention to the direction of bolt insertion but is silent on a reverse thread. I can't imagine any reason to use a reverse thread on these.

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6th Gen right side center stand bolt is reverse thread. That may be what you are thinking of. I've had my '99 frame off, and there aren't any oddball threads.

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Update:

 

I had to drill the screw out. It simply want budging. I also used an Easy Out.

 

I did find that the swingarm nut was loose. I got that tightened to spec. It has helped the vibration a lot. I still have some, especially part throttle above 6,000 rpm. I think the next thing I'll try is having the injectors cleaned and flow matched. After all, it has nearly 82,000 miles and they've never been serviced. I'm also saving up for a valve inspection/service, but this I may just do myself. I've been quoted $500 and if I can actually service them, I'll put that money towards the suspension.

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19 hours ago, Lint said:

Update:

 

I had to drill the screw out. It simply want budging. I also used an Easy Out.

 

I did find that the swingarm nut was loose. I got that tightened to spec. It has helped the vibration a lot. I still have some, especially part throttle above 6,000 rpm. I think the next thing I'll try is having the injectors cleaned and flow matched. After all, it has nearly 82,000 miles and they've never been serviced. I'm also saving up for a valve inspection/service, but this I may just do myself. I've been quoted $500 and if I can actually service them, I'll put that money towards the suspension.

I had never done valves before, and was not a problem, actually easy on our 5th gens, and if your going as far as puling the injectors off, it will be not much extra work to do the valves while the injectors are off being cleaned. Just download the manual, and mark the cams before you pull them which i screwed up and caused panic but received lots of help from the forum. Thank you all! Now i feel the need to make another forum contribution! 

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That's good to know, thank you. I'll get a white paint pen and mark the cams. I've replaced a timing chain set, including pulling the head to get machined, on a Saturn SC2 dohc car and I've done head gaskets on a Chevy 350, so I should be able to measure, etc to shim the cams.

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