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WHAT DID YOU DO TODAY TO YOUR VFR 6TH GEN ?

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changed the oil filter over from the k&n went for oem honda and reused the oil since it's barely been used. Also changed all the brake pads to EBC Double H. Next on my list is a new chain and sprockets but that'll be next months wages.

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23 minutes ago, anth85 said:

changed the oil filter over from the k&n went for oem honda and reused the oil since it's barely been used. Also changed all the brake pads to EBC Double H. Next on my list is a new chain and sprockets but that'll be next months wages.

Great job anth85, you may have just saved your own life by getting rid of that piece of crap filter. EBC HH's are great.

Cheers.

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Rode it to Washington DC this weekend. 

 

Definitely need to fix the coolant issue.. but man the VFR is in its element on trips into the wild. Especially in the mountains. 

 

Was a lot of fun to ride. Will upload video soon. Will say fuel economy goes to total shit over 80 mph so I’ll aim to keep slower next trip. Lots of rain. 

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5 minutes ago, Grum said:

Great job anth85, you may have just saved your own life by getting rid of that piece of crap filter. EBC HH's are great.

Cheers.

I’ve seen crashes because of them too many times.  

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I scoured eBay looking for a LeoVince system. No luck. 😐

 

Cool ride Urbanengineer.  You’re brave given the rain forecast and the typical July heat. 

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I like riding lol. My old Versys was slow but it was dead reliable. The VFR is fast ish (for a longer distance bike) but not very reliable so far. 

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12 minutes ago, Urbanengineer said:

I like riding lol. My old Versys was slow but it was dead reliable. The VFR is fast ish (for a longer distance bike) but not very reliable so far. 

Well that’s part of the fun of it, no?  Repairs, fiddling, and cleaning. 

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Well fwiw I have plenty of experience wrenching and riding dozens of mc’s over multiple decades, and I find the VFR’s low rpm fueling way too finicky and requires a good amount of finesse. I’m confused as to why Honda thought that this VTec engine set up was the way to go, and then since they did why didn’t they make it more user friendly.  A gearing change is in my future so I can keep the revs higher more regularly.  I don’t see gaining much if anything from fiddling with PAIR Valves or removing intake snorkels  (been there, done that on other motorcycles). 

Just keep at it. You’ll iron out the problems ride by ride. 

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Ain’t that the truth. My Versys was my first problem free bike, but it just didn’t have any character. The VFR has lots of character but really blows to work on. I’m going to buy a snorkel valve electronic thing next as mine doesn’t seem to work. 

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1 hour ago, Urbanengineer said:

Ain’t that the truth. My Versys was my first problem free bike, but it just didn’t have any character. The VFR has lots of character but really blows to work on. I’m going to buy a snorkel valve electronic thing next as mine doesn’t seem to work. 

Well if it makes you feel any better I just blew some sort of fuse and I have no lights and no fuel pump. But it isn’t the main fuse. Guess I’ll figure it out tomorrow. Pitch black and rain showers no go zone for trying to troubleshoot dumb stuff like this when you have no garage. 

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46 minutes ago, VARIABLE9 said:

Well if it makes you feel any better I just blew some sort of fuse and I have no lights and no fuel pump. But it isn’t the main fuse. Guess I’ll figure it out tomorrow. Pitch black and rain showers no go zone for trying to troubleshoot dumb stuff like this when you have no garage. 

Hi Variable.

If you're sure you have no Fuse issues and your Main Fuse B is OK and no burnt wires/connectors, looks like an Ignition Switch issue. Kill Switch will stop the Fuel Pump and engine cranking but shouldn't effect your headlights so that rules out the Kill Switch.

Keep dry. Good luck.

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Sounds like an issue with the main fuse. Do you get a heads up display when you turn the keys on? If not it’s something main fuse ish related. 

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1 hour ago, Grum said:

Hi Variable.

If you're sure you have no Fuse issues and your Main Fuse B is OK and no burnt wires/connectors, looks like an Ignition Switch issue. Kill Switch will stop the Fuel Pump and engine cranking but shouldn't effect your headlights so that rules out the Kill Switch.

Keep dry. Good luck.

I was only able to check the fuse under the seat, and it looked fine. I haven’t gotten into the fuses up front. I had to look up where they are located!  Too dark and rainy so saving further investigation for morning. Thanks for the reply!

30 minutes ago, Urbanengineer said:

Sounds like an issue with the main fuse. Do you get a heads up display when you turn the keys on? If not it’s something main fuse ish related. 

No lights whatsoever. No fuel pump. No clicky if key is On and hit starter button.  I negligently contacted a positive and negative from the lighting circuit while looking for a positive switched feed to hook up my 3CS Sealed relay/power distribution. It was too dark and I just wasn’t paying enough attention. Stupid really.  Thanks for the reply!

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On 7/23/2018 at 11:18 PM, Grum said:

Hi Variable.

If you're sure you have no Fuse issues and your Main Fuse B is OK and no burnt wires/connectors, looks like an Ignition Switch issue. Kill Switch will stop the Fuel Pump and engine cranking but shouldn't effect your headlights so that rules out the Kill Switch.

Keep dry. Good luck.

I misstated the problem. It was dark and rainy so I was rushing and didn’t realize the turn signals still worked and the fuel pump actually was working - long story short the fuse blew in ‘run’ key setting and I didn’t turn it back to ‘off’, so every time I was turning key it was from ‘run’ to ‘acc’ and therefore no fuel pump prime* nor clicky. Like I said about how I created the problem, stupid.  *followup, I checked this and the fuel pump does prime even ‘acc’ to ‘run’, I was positive at the time it wasn’t priming - I wonder if it sits for extended periods in acc that when turned bac to run it won’t prime?  Not really important, I hope to never do that again!

 

Basically blew the 10a ‘METER / TAIL / ILLUM / STOP’ fuse.  Easy fix right. As Charlie Murphy said “WRONG!”  What a pita to access these fuse boxes. They should be under the seat somewhere Honda. 

 

 

On 7/24/2018 at 8:25 AM, Urbanengineer said:

If you go LED on the front DRL signal it would make a good spot for your ACC line in. 

Oh, I’m fully committed to using the license plate light for switched power for relays now. 

 

#vfr800 fuse location  #vfr800 fuse box

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Why all the way back there? And I was wondering if it was just my bike or what... but it seemed very annoying to need an Allen wrench to access a fuse box. There was plenty of space to put those boxes in the rear seat storage area. Annoying as hell it takes that much to trouble shoot. 

 

And can we take a minute to acknowledge Honda’s silly design of piecing the tail light to the illumination panel... screw Track Guys Amirite?

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It went pretty well except for them freaking out about me having a center stand. The track org made me try to take it off which I was fine with... only to realize I had to remove the whole rear exhaust header section. They let me by with it wired up tight. 

 

Continental sport touring tires performed very well. 

 

Great coaching. Brian knew his stuff. You can see me ride it here: 

 

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Looks like a fun track Urban

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3 hours ago, Urbanengineer said:

Why all the way back there? And I was wondering if it was just my bike or what... but it seemed very annoying to need an Allen wrench to access a fuse box. There was plenty of space to put those boxes in the rear seat storage area. Annoying as hell it takes that much to trouble shoot. 

 

And can we take a minute to acknowledge Honda’s silly design of piecing the tail light to the illumination panel... screw Track Guys Amirite?

I’m using the license plate light for switched power for a relay harness, and since the relay harness will live under the seat (in all that space Honda could’ve used for easy fuse access) I wanted to find switched power from the rear lighting area. If the weather ever breaks I plan on installing it this week. Too humid, wet, and / or sunny lately. 

 

What did did you do for your lights?  Just disconnect them?  Easier than pulling the bulbs. And you need the gauges so can’t pull the fuse. 

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Today used my new TubO’Towels to clean my wheels after a 500mi trip last week. 

90 towels for about $10, took 10 to clean the wheels. So I’ll get nine uses from the tub at about $1 and change each wheel cleaning. 

They worked well. Would recommend. 

 

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I'm also into keeping stuff clean but those towels don't break down and aren't recyclable, I know motorsports are far removed from environmental issues but the baby butt wipe towels, furniture cleaning towels, all these towels are creating massive headaches for waste disposal plants. Old rags and some elbow grease and pay it forward into your kids' future a little!!

 

Every little bit counts

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I hear ya. Believe me I’m the king of turning old sheets, towels, and T-shirt’s into shop rags. I try to minimize wastefulness and keep things environmentally friendly as possible within my means. I recycle and try not to use straws in my iced coffee and I cut up the six pack plastic thingy so turtles don’t get choked out. The TO’T is like a once a month solution, just for the grime buildup between washes (I use SimpleGreen for the wheels). I usually would wipe down wheels last after cleaning the rest of the painted and upper surfaces (Plexus and microfiber towel), but sometimes a stronger cleaner is needed. 

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3 hours ago, VARIABLE9 said:

I’m using the license plate light for switched power for a relay harness, and since the relay harness will live under the seat (in all that space Honda could’ve used for easy fuse access) I wanted to find switched power from the rear lighting area. If the weather ever breaks I plan on installing it this week. Too humid, wet, and / or sunny lately. 

 

What did did you do for your lights?  Just disconnect them?  Easier than pulling the bulbs. And you need the gauges so can’t pull the fuse. 

I have HID so I just pull the harness fuse. Nothing like bypassing Honda “Feature” 😜!

 

I will likely wire a switch to the headlights this winter. I plan to run switches for the front LED angel eyes and LED demon eyes also.  I don’t like the HID coming on before the starter turns, so it’s either wire a switch, or use a Kawi Headlight style relay (delayed till after start).

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Good point on the wipes. I’d rather just do my own thing rather than buy those. My own cleaner with my own rags. 

 

My wheels sort of cleaned up, but wheels are filthy again After riding through a couple hours worth of rain storms.  

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Try some Ardex 6209/6214 for your wheels, swing arm, frame under fairing, et cetera. It’ll strip wax, so I wouldn’t use on body panels. 

 

 

6209 SPOT REMOVER Fast Drying Solvent This is a very fast drying solvent cleaner for grease spots on the paint or on fabric. It is a body prep for removing tar, glue, undercoating, etc.

6214 SUPER FAST SOLVENT Quarts only This is the same product as Spot Remover and is for the mechanic. 

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