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NateV8

1994 vfr750 repairs. Looking for some input

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Hi everyone

 

So seeing as I have my vfr stored in a friends garage this winter I'm going to get some repairs done while waiting for spring. 

 

The front valve cover looks to be weeping. Although it doesn't look like it's changed since I bought it last spring. Meaning it looks to be the same oil on the front from when I bought it. I can't remember if I wiped it off to see if it's leaking or not...d'oh

 

The bike has 108k km on it so I figure the spark plugs and wires are probably due to be changed and I'm pretty sure I have to take most of the top off anyways so I might as well clean the front/rear valve cover gaskets too. I'm also going to change the air filter and remove the snorkel. I'm pretty sure it has a jet kit as it smells super rich at idle (I know that's common ) but it's also hard to start when the engine is cold and it can't start at all around 0c. I'm assuming it's from a jet kit and the idle mixture not being adjusted after. 

 

I've never tore down a bike before or removed a gas tank. Anything I should know before tackling this? I don't want to break anything or scratch up my gas tank. The gas tank is full too, is gas going to spill everywhere? Is there anything else I should replace while I have the top off? 

 

list is:

Air filter

Remove snorkel

Change spark plugs

Change plug wires 

Clean front and rear valve cover gaskets

Check idle mixture screw

Replace gear shifter o ring as it leaking oil very slowly

Replace clutch lever 

 

Thanks in advance

 

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Hi Nate,

 

The fuel tank has a petcock, so you can turn that of and run the engine till it stops.

There are small rubber blocks between tank and frame, these tends to fall and wander off somewhere in your garage :goofy:

#16

Knipsel.JPG.56b136488a6abd93d1a190bf56fc379d.JPG

 

The fuel pump (to the left in the middle of the bike) operates with contact points that will wear over time. Inspect those and if really worn replace (there are aftermarket kits) and put a diode in that limits the "sparking" that causes the wear.

 

donot forget the sub-air filter #6

(the price shown below is BS, it is just a bit of foam)

 

Knipsel.JPG.b7a60d827b9ee194e7b2d5d0fd3cff28.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Unless you see cracks, plug wires will usually outlive the bike, and Honda uses high-quality stuff. good idea to flush out brake fluid with fresh DOT3.

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The 94 has a fuel pump, so I'm not sure if I would run the bike with the petcock closed and make the fuel pump draw vacuum. Maybe no big deal, maybe stress the pump. You can easily unplug the fuel pump.

 

If you really haven't done anything to the bike in a long time, then this is a good starting point.

Air filter

Oil change and filter

spark plugs

Clutch and Brake Fluid

Clean the gunk around the caliper pistons

Fork rebuild

Fuel Filter

 

There's a trick to making front plug changes easier, with removing the radiator fan. It's a bit hard to get it lined back up sometimes, but saves the knuckles. You don't have to remove anything other than fairings to do the plugs.

 

Your carb boots might be rock hard. They are pricey to replace, so be careful with them. You should also do a carb sync after you finish making adjustments.

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I got the bike last spring and I've done my oil change and filter before storage, changed clutch and brake fluid, changed fluid and top seals in the front forks. Calipers are on the eventually to do list, maybe I will do it this winter also.

 

Thanks for the help so far

 

So nothing really to watch for other than the little rubber cushions? Do I have to start the bike? I don't really feel like starting it for a few seconds and then shutting it off. Is it going to piss gas everywhere when I remove the tank? Do I have to remove the carbs to get the valve covers off? 

 

I'm ok with unbolting the rad. I had to do that this summer to check the fan when the bike overheated.

 

 

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if you close the petcock and take the fuel line off, only a small amount will spill. so either run the engine for l;ike 10 seconds, or hold a paper towel in your hand/around the fuel line as you pull it off.

cleaning the calipers' inside and pistons is a good thing to do.

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You don't need to unbolt the radiator for the spark plugs. Just unbolt the radiator fan.

 

I wouldn't worry about the gas. Just close the petcock and done. IIRC there is plenty of slack in the fuel line to lift the tank up and have a look underneath.

 

Not sure if you have to remove the carbs. Guess you'll find out.

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Not necessary to remove carbs to remove cam covers.

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OK that is good to know.

 

I haven't seen the bike since october. Where is the petcock located?

 

When cleaning the calipers, Any parts/grease needed? or just clean with brake cleaner?

 

Any recommendations for spark plugs?

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Where is the petcock located?

Underneath the tank

 

 

As for the caliper, gently have the pistons move forward a bit so you clearly see the difference between "clean"and "not clean".

I use brake cleaner, with a toothbrush and/or a bit of tissue to reach between/behind the pistons. Check that the little clips bewteen brake pad and caliper fit properly after you cleaned them

 

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to reach the petcock, remove the seat and use fingers or a long lever to turn the knob sideways for OFF.

 

5a80ee68b7637_march17061.thumb.JPG.546724be0ec4856accfe5a07494f3494.JPG

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Perfect, thanks for the pic.

 

Any preference on spark plugs for the 750? plug gap? https://fortnine.ca/en/ngk-iridium-ix-spark-plug

 

What about chain and sprocket brands? I found this https://fortnine.ca/en/regina-oem-chain-and-sprocket-kit. I can't change the tooth count as I was going to try +2 on the rear.

 

I'm using fort nine for the free shipping.

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For sprockets, I like AFAM and DID chains.

Whatever you do , stay away from aluminum sprockets....   :goofy:

 

chain maintenance is key; if you do a lot of miles, look into a Scottoiler...

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20 hours ago, NateV8 said:

Perfect, thanks for the pic.

 

Any preference on spark plugs for the 750? plug gap? https://fortnine.ca/en/ngk-iridium-ix-spark-plug

 

What about chain and sprocket brands? I found this https://fortnine.ca/en/regina-oem-chain-and-sprocket-kit. I can't change the tooth count as I was going to try +2 on the rear.

 

 

Plug gap about .030"-.032"

 

+2 on rear is  within the eccentric adjustment range for using stock-length chain.  but as the dutchman sez, alloy rear sprockets wear out quick. :sleep:

 

 

if you aren't paying at least $110-$130 for a  chain, you're not getting top quality.

 

 

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On 2/13/2018 at 8:24 PM, squirrelman said:

 

Plug gap about .030"-.032"

 

+2 on rear is  within the eccentric adjustment range for using stock-length chain.  but as the dutchman sez, alloy rear sprockets wear out quick. :sleep:

 

 

if you aren't paying at least $110-$130 for a  chain, you're not getting top quality.

 

 

 

In Canadian $130 bucks would be a cheap chain haha. I see what you mean though. I found a DID VX gold chain, it's about 200, pretty sure that is topmost quality!

 

I'm going to work on the bike in 2 weeks so we will see what I can get done. I'm going to check the mixture screw on the carbs too. I think I saw somewhere on here that they should be 2.5 turns out. Maybe that will fix my very rich idle as it's near impossible to start when below 0c (32F) with choke on full. Even cooler weather (50-60F) it is a pain. Using Fahrenheit as I believe that is what you guys use in the states. I may be wrong though lol. I wonder if the original owner installed a jet kit. He did do a few mods to it.

 

I also need to change the gear shifter shaft O-ring. So much to do

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Hmmm 15$ a plug seems kinda expensive. Does anyone have the part number for the NGK iridium plugs CR9EHIX? Are they a threaded top?

 

 

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12 minutes ago, NateV8 said:

Hmmm 15$ a plug seems kinda expensive. Does anyone have the part number for the NGK iridium plugs CR9EHIX? Are they a threaded top?

 

 

Nevermind, the website I use has the best price at $13 a plug. 

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Yes, if it is still in 1 piece..

It is just a thin bit of foam.

Mine was gone by the time I inspected it... :-)

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19 hours ago, Dutchy said:

Yes, if it is still in 1 piece..

It is just a thin bit of foam.

Mine was gone by the time I inspected it... :-)

 

Hmmm hopefully it is still there. Waiting for parts is never fun and it looks to be expensive to replace.

 

I have to go buy a plug gapper too. The one I have only goes down to 0.40 

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I'd just cut a bit of foam.... (or live w/o it....)

 

 

Plug gapper?  In my 35+ years I never ever did that. Just source new sparkies.....

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5 hours ago, Dutchy said:

I'd just cut a bit of foam.... (or live w/o it....)

 

 

Plug gapper?  In my 35+ years I never ever did that. Just source new sparkies.....

 

 

Haha well I didn't get this in time as I bought a gapper and gapped them to 0.30 lol

 

I didn't get to the sub air filter yet as I forgot about it lol. Most of my time was consumed by trying to remove the gas tank, never did it before so it was annoying. Got it almost fully off but there was an electrical wire attached to it (which I assumed was for the fuel gauge?) that I couldn't remove as it went into insulation under the gas tank so I sat it on the back of the bike. There was a stem that started leaking gas which was annoying and unexpected so I took a nitrile glove and wrapped it around with elastic bands. 

 

I did the rear plugs, no torque wrench but I'm sure they will be fine. I removed NGK Rs and they looked ok, gapp was bigger than 0.34.

 

Here is the hiccup. When I removed the tank, I found this on the air box. I was not expecting the holes. I removed the snorkel but now I'm not sure what else was done. Did he add a jet kit? Is that why he drilled the holes? Why didn't he just remove the snorkel? 

 

What should I do at this point? I was thinking cover underneath with tape and silicon/epoxy the holes and leave the snorkel removed.

20180225_155323.jpg

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Has anyone ever done or seen the holes drilled in the air box before? I can't find anything on it. Should I plug them up and just leave the snorkel off? I'm doing the snorkel for sound and because it doesn't hurt economy and performance from what I could find but can't find anything on holes being drilled.

 

Also on the 2 metal tabs on the middle right side of the pic there is writing in marker. One says "Mix 1 1/2" and the other looks like "origin" but not too sure. Maybe mix 1 1/2 is how many turns on the idle mixture screw? I may be reaching though lol. It is VERY rich at idle to the point it is hard to start when cool with choke on and wont start at all around 0c/32f. 

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I would measure them holes' diameter and plug them with a little sealant....

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I think they were 5/8th or 1/2" but I'm not positive. I'll go pick it up tonight and measure/seal them. With the snorkel in and all those holes I am pretty sure that is more airflow combine than just having the snorkel removed. Does the gas tank insulation touch the top of the air box? I'm wondering if they even allowed that much air in to begin with. 

 

Wish I knew the noise from not having the silencer in, shouldn't having those holes create a similar effect?

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