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R1 R/R


9C1

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As I work my way through maintenance on this bike (new to me a month ago, 2000 VFR, 28k miles), I have read about the R/R issues so I've looked at the wiring and such on mine.  The connector to the stator looks like new - no browning, no corrosion, no signs of heat.  Not sure if someone has replaced this R/R or if it's an original (it's marked SH579C-12).  The bike idles fine and runs well in the parking lot, and the battery is at 12.5v resting and in the 14's when I rev it, but since it's not registered I haven't taken it on the road.  Should I just swap out the R/R with a MOFSET one though I have no issues currently? If so, is it true an R1 rectifier will swap in and work with no trouble?  I see they are less costly.

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Well, I have the same year model as yours and have put 20k miles or so on mine. 60k on it now. Pretty sure it’s the OEM R/R. My 3 yellow wire connector and other connectors look great. I’m not fixing it until it’s time to. Have another OEM R/R on standby.

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A pic of mine over here in Winston Salem.  So where did you get the OEM one?  And if you have trouble on the road, is it reasonable to assume that just plugging in a working R/R will get you home?  I'm just learning about VFR electronics!  Off topic - is that yellow wheel tape on your rims?

VFR 12-23-17.JPG

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Yes.

 

The 5th gen is famous for R/R failure regards electrical gremlins. If it's not just the battery reaching it's life expectancy, it's probably the R/R and in theory it should be as simple as plugging in a replacement.

 

6th gen electrical woes tend to be due to Stator failure, usually the R/R survives. This model also has a few famously crappy connectors which may be the source of the drama. The common ground bus is the usual suspect. The 5th gen has the same crappy ground bus connector so it pays to future proof these connectors.

 

There are a few threads on here explaining how to.

 

 

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3 hours ago, 9C1 said:

As I work my way through maintenance on this bike (new to me a month ago, 2000 VFR, 28k miles), I have read about the R/R issues so I've looked at the wiring and such on mine.  The connector to the stator looks like new - no browning, no corrosion, no signs of heat.  Not sure if someone has replaced this R/R or if it's an original (it's marked SH579C-12).  The bike idles fine and runs well in the parking lot, and the battery is at 12.5v resting and in the 14's when I rev it, but since it's not registered I haven't taken it on the road.  Should I just swap out the R/R with a MOFSET one though I have no issues currently? If so, is it true an R1 rectifier will swap in and work with no trouble?  I see they are less costly.

 

Over time the 5th gen R/Rs have a high fallout. but with that said it looks like yours is working fine for now. I dont like telling someone to replace a working component but you can plan for that eventuality.  - Most people will go for the FH020aa R/R on www.roadstercycle.com   - Is not a plug and play deal, but you will have to do some minor wire up work...     - For now the best thing you can do is add a voltmeter up front so you can watch what is going on.  Then you will know when its time to consider doing the charging fixes. - There is a great thread on this site on all the voltmeter ideas people have done.  You can get one cheap from ebay. - For the VFR its one of those must haves...

 

GL

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4 hours ago, 9C1 said:

A pic of mine over here in Winston Salem.  So where did you get the OEM one?  And if you have trouble on the road, is it reasonable to assume that just plugging in a working R/R will get you home?  I'm just learning about VFR electronics!  Off topic - is that yellow wheel tape on your rims?

VFR 12-23-17.JPG

 

4 hours ago, 9C1 said:

A pic of mine over here in Winston Salem.  So where did you get the OEM one?  And if you have trouble on the road, is it reasonable to assume that just plugging in a working R/R will get you home?  I'm just learning about VFR electronics!  Off topic - is that yellow wheel tape on your rims?

VFR 12-23-17.JPG

 

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A member here sold me one he had for a 5th gen that he no longer owned. If I’m going on a few day trip, I have it packed with me. If my battery isn’t dead, I should be back on the road after swapping out the bad one.  I purchased the yellow decals on the wheels from a vendor on eBay. I believe he was located in Spain. Took about 3 weeks to deliver. Comes pre-cut in a kit. Most of it was a peel and apply yourself. It’s time consuming. I removed both wheels and did it in an evening. Well lighted area will help the process. Not a perfect job but I do get compliments.

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I use gixxer R/R’s on my 4G VFR’s. In addition to the stator wires, check them all the way to the R/R, and then to the starter relay.
If you are concerned about needing to swap one on the road, put a connector on the replacement R/R that will plug directly in to the existing wiring. (Male/Female spade or bullet connectors, while not the best option, will work...for many many miles). And bring plenty of zip-ties.
The voltmeter already mentioned is a must-have.

Paul in SoCal


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