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98-2001 5th gen Rearset adapters - Sebspeed Customs


SEBSPEED

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Hey all, this has been in the works for a bit and I'm finally ready to make an initial run available.

 

I developed this rearset adapter while building a custom '99. I had a set of CBR929/954RR Sato brand rearsets on hand, and so developed the adapters around them. I have designed them to place a racing-style 954RR rearset in the oem VFR peg position at the lowest, most forward position when the new rearsets are installed in the CBR orientation. This allows track or race style "up & back" adjustment. Because of the 2-pc design of most racing rearsets, the plates can also be flipped Left to Right to allow the pegs to be positioned lower than stock VFR position.

 

Can be set up for Standard or GP style reverse shifting 

 

I am selling these adapters as a kit at a pre-order price of $140 for the 1st 10 orders. All orders beyond the 1st 10 will be $150.

 

What you receive in the kit:

- 1 pair billet 6061-T6 aluminum adapter plates in Bare Bright or Satin Brushed finish (sorry, no anodize option at this time)

- 1 set of 6061-T6 spacers

- stainless steel hardware

 

To complete this modification to your bike, you will also need to purchase an oem or aftermarket set of rearsets made to fit a 00-2003 CBR929RR or 954RR (fit is the same). I chose to leave this option to the end user rather than A) maintain an inventory and B) limit style and selection. The world is your oyster folks, there are a great many options out there for CBR sets!

 

There ARE a couple caveats, as with any custom installation:

- depending on your choice of aftermarket set, you may need to use a pressure style brake switch rather than your oem switch

- the stock heat shield is deleted

- extreme peg position adjustments may require adjustment of the brake line(s) and/or brake line replacement

- new levels of comfort and/or on-track prowess may cause untold amounts of envy from other VFR riders...

 

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I will accept pre-orders as defined by a response to this posted list in combination with 50% down payment via paypal.

 

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As with my clutch cover buy, I'm kicking back $5 of each pre-order to VFRD!

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, VFR Newbie said:

Well, I was sidelined a little bit on the rearsets by getting some stainless lines installed and rebuilding all the calipers on my VFR.  I think I may have a solution to make these rearsets work with linked brakes (it seems like a lot of guys doing this are unlinked.)

 

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As you can see here the hard line goes right into the MC.  I really don't want to bend it to get it to line up with the mounting point on the 929/959 rear set, as it risks kinking the hard line.  So, my plan is to trim back the hard line a bit, refinish the end and put in another piece from the HEL Stainless kit that seems to be exactly the fitting needed.

 

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The middle line there is 8" long, and will be able to transition from the trimmed hard line to a stainless, and then tie in with a double banjo pressure switch.  Seems like the best solution!  Also planning on going to a HRC tube type reservoir to eliminate some more bulk.

 

Seb, any thoughts on this setup, or did you think about this at all in your development??

 

Ordering up another line, and I'll let you guys know how I make out.

 

I have a similar issue and have a plan to use a small block of SS and use the existing lines as-is but adding a short jumper line. I did a proof of concept and it looks like it will work. Ultimately it will be a lot cheaper than de-linking (I know some here are biting their tongue) and since I am not really interested in the de-link, more so the ability to add a quick shifter with my Rapid Bike module, which requires a shift mechanism similar to the CBR, this is the easier way for me to do this IMO. Below is a pic of the block with the test lines I hooked up.

 

Essentially the block has a small hole that goes end to end and then I have a shallower 10mm hole at the ends that was tapped with a 10mm x 1.25 to allow the banjo bolt to connect the line(s) to the block. The main difference between this mock up and the actual setup, is that the two lines (hard line and SS line) that currently attach to the MC will attach to one end of the block and the small jumper will connect to the other end and then to the MC. I bought two 5/8" square blocks about 2.5" long, one for the mock up and in case I made a mistake, the other will be the "production" unit. The two blocks cost less than $10 shipped and the small jumper line is going to cost $49 (from HEL). I'm still waiting for the HEL line to ship and the time to make the new block but I can see this working out well...I hope!

 

IMG_3943.thumb.JPG.5966e493032194099fd4f65b1ba23201.JPG

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I can't find where I bought it (likely eBay), but I used a threaded stainless coupler to do something similar.  It may be M10x1.0, rather than 1.25, but banjo bolts are available for both threads (I think European bikes may use the 1.0 pitch).  I'm not happy with the clamp--it slips,  so I will probably end up changing it.  No drilling or tapping...

 

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Ciao,

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I hope those of you that have installed your kits are still testing and enjoying them  :)

 

I will have 5 new sets available in a few weeks, please get in touch if interested! 

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I have anodised your adapters black, and will get them on soon.

Probably.

Your 5G is looking awesome, and i am glad it is on a different continent to mine so they will never be next to each other.

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Parts will be ready to ship out in about 1 week. Anyone who would like to reserve 1 or more of the remaining 4 available sets, please reply or PM me.

 

Thanks!

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Now that corner working is on a hiatus, I'll finally be able to get back on working this. I ended up getting a set of adjustable rear sets so I'm hoping to make some progress this weekend.

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3 hours ago, SEBSPEED said:

Parts will be ready to ship out in about 1 week. Anyone who would like to reserve 1 or more of the remaining 4 available sets, please reply or PM me.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Update, only 2 sets left as of this writing. 

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Well, finally made some progress! I was able to get the rear set adapters and a set of generic aftermarket rear sets I got off of eBay installed. How I ended up doing the swap was rather easy. I was able to get a used swingarm pivot bolt (less than $20 delivered) and used that to push the original through the other side. I also used the ceiling strap I put in a while ago to lift/support the back end to help keep weight off of the swingarm and it worked like a charm. I haven't quite finished up, as I have a few other minor things I want to look at, as well as make the lever adjustments. I have to look into the brake a little more. The rear sets came with a bolt that is supposed to replace the plunger bolt of the rear MC but I couldn't figure out how the plunger comes out. I even looked at the CBR900 MC I had and could not figure out how to remove the plunger. So for now the plunger is threaded into the rear set where there replacement bolt goes.

 

As far as tightening the swingarm pivot bolt nut, I was able to use a 27mm impact socket I picked up at Harbor Freight, the 6 point socket had a much better bite close to the edge of the socket than my Craftsman socket did. I was able to apply enough sideways pressure on the wrench while applying tightening force. It tired to pop off the nut on my first attempt but I was able to finally get the pressure and leverage just right. BTW, the rear sets came with a pressure type brake light switch. I also went with traditional shift pattern but I did toy with the idea of going GP shift pattern.

 

All that being said, here are a couple of pics for you.

 

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Id love to have a set of these I have been looking for a while a way to do GP shift on my VFR, it is the only one of my bikes still standard shift. How do I go about purchasing a set from you?

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Good Job D.  I like that idea of getting a second swing arm pivot bolt,  man it was something tricking getting that back in place.  Looks like you are going the way of using linkage for shifting vs. using the stock arm,  was wondering if and how I'd like that.   Funny Justin called out Seb on the fact that our sockets would not go in the adapter plate to be able to tighten things up. in fact believe they are still only hand tight.  Guess  a trip to HF will need to be and a bit of grinding.  No way doing in a Snap on socket.

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1 hour ago, RVFR said:

Good Job D.  I like that idea of getting a second swing arm pivot bolt,  man it was something tricking getting that back in place.  Looks like you are going the way of using linkage for shifting vs. using the stock arm,  was wondering if and how I'd like that.   Funny Justin called out Seb on the fact that our sockets would not go in the adapter plate to be able to tighten things up. in fact believe they are still only hand tight.  Guess  a trip to HF will need to be and a bit of grinding.  No way doing in a Snap on socket.

Yeah, I was able to torque it down but took a lot of pressure in toward the nut. I ended up adding a stabilizer/heat shield for the brake lines.

 

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16 hours ago, RVFR said:

Good Job D.  I like that idea of getting a second swing arm pivot bolt,  man it was something tricking getting that back in place.  Looks like you are going the way of using linkage for shifting vs. using the stock arm,  was wondering if and how I'd like that.   Funny Justin called out Seb on the fact that our sockets would not go in the adapter plate to be able to tighten things up. in fact believe they are still only hand tight.  Guess  a trip to HF will need to be and a bit of grinding.  No way doing in a Snap on socket.

 

I offered to buy the parts back over a month ago when Justin brought this up to me, still will if you're not happy. I thought we settled this and came to an agreement after I made numerous suggestions, such as simply applying torque from the other side. If that doesn't suit you I will take them back.

 

I'm just 1 guy in a garage trying to feed my family so unfortunately I can't just chuck a pile of parts over a minor design change but as mentioned here previously I will incorporate the change into the next run. Not sure when that will be, as again I'm just 1 guy not a large company with R&D reserves at hand, but I will do my best to make sure everyone is happy with stuff I make for them.  

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I don't even have mine installed yet, but must say it's people like yourself and the other garage tinkerers which make these forums and communities worth being part of.  A minor bit of pain during installation is a small price to pay for any custom run of bespoke components.

 

Tip my hat to you sir

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I agree. No one is making the exotic parts so many are looking for except for people like Seb. To be fair no one is or has ever made a lot of things for these bikes as they are not mainstream as so many know and comment on day after day.

 

Things like this take huge budgets to bring to market, even if you're in a country with low overheads ie.Tyga in Thailand. If a manufacturer, or a sole trader for that matter, offer to refund then accept or live with it. On the other side of the coin, if something is a bit fiddly to fit or difficult for the average person this should also be commented on for anyone who has the product in hand but not yet fitted so they know what to expect. 

 

So both sides shouldn't be offended or get their knickers all twisted. No one who has been around for a while doubts the opinion or skills of either involved.

 

Bren

mediator and peace maker, sometimes chief shit stirrer, in industry and bike forums 😉

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Torqueing from the other side worked for me, an easy answer to a very minor problem. 

I''m more then happy with the end product, let alone the price. 

As a bonus, all foot peg vibrations are gone. 

How about 50/54 triples with 40mm offset now Seb?

 

 

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Mine are still in a box on the shelf, because, well, life.

Keep making stuff, seb- custom parts are sometimes paid for with skinned knuckles installing them. I'll happily pay that price.

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On 8/31/2018 at 11:58 PM, VFROZ said:

How about 50/54 triples with 40mm offset now Seb?

 

 

Hmmm.  I was just looking at my rather expensive wall ornament (NR top triple clamp) the other day, which would, in theory, "only" need a custom lower triple with a 40mm offset and 214mm fork spacing...

 

Ciao,

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Re: Triples, I have done and can do custom sets, though I have not taken the time to include ignition switch mount provisions as all the sets I've done before were for custom installs. 

 

I can and do provide steering stops when possible, the least i can do there is provide adjustable stops and hardware for the end user to drill/tap/install. Best case, I have a bike on hand so I can do the preliminary install and fit check. 

 

Best thing to do is PM me with any specific requests and I'll address them on a case-by-case basis. I've done drop top triples for old and new bikes, usd conversions for same, even did a set for a guy who wanted to put usd street forks on a dirt bike. Can do pretty much any flat pattern and fork OD/offset combo, but have mostly been limited to cutting from 1" thick material. Again, shoot me a PM with specifics and I'll see what I can do.

 

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On 8/31/2018 at 1:17 PM, SEBSPEED said:

 

I offered to buy the parts back over a month ago when Justin brought this up to me, still will if you're not happy. I thought we settled this and came to an agreement after I made numerous suggestions, such as simply applying torque from the other side. If that doesn't suit you I will take them back.

 

I'm just 1 guy in a garage trying to feed my family so unfortunately I can't just chuck a pile of parts over a minor design change but as mentioned here previously I will incorporate the change into the next run. Not sure when that will be, as again I'm just 1 guy not a large company with R&D reserves at hand, but I will do my best to make sure everyone is happy with stuff I make for them.  

 No No No,  all is very good.  I like your stuff,  I get the miss Q of sorts, God only knows  how many I've made.   It's not really that big a deal 😉    I was just throwing shiet out when I can. yea I can grind down a HF socket just fine.  just was surprised.  Now for a mix matched Radiator affair.  

 

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On 9/6/2018 at 6:45 PM, SEBSPEED said:

Re: Triples, I have done and can do custom sets, though I have not taken the time to include ignition switch mount provisions as all the sets I've done before were for custom installs. 

 

I can and do provide steering stops when possible, the least i can do there is provide adjustable stops and hardware for the end user to drill/tap/install. Best case, I have a bike on hand so I can do the preliminary install and fit check. 

 

Best thing to do is PM me with any specific requests and I'll address them on a case-by-case basis. I've done drop top triples for old and new bikes, usd conversions for same, even did a set for a guy who wanted to put usd street forks on a dirt bike. Can do pretty much any flat pattern and fork OD/offset combo, but have mostly been limited to cutting from 1" thick material. Again, shoot me a PM with specifics and I'll see what I can do.

 

Double hmmm...  How many lower clamp bolts can you use in 1" material?  Most lowers seem to be a bit thicker, no?

 

I think this may call for a PM!

 

Ciao,

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3 hours ago, JZH said:

 

Double hmmm...  How many lower clamp bolts can you use in 1" material?  Most lowers seem to be a bit thicker, no?

 

I think this may call for a PM!

 

Ciao,

 

Have done 2x M6 or 1x M8 per pinch. Most cast steel lowers are 1" or less, cast aluminum tend to be taller but also more relief pockets and webbing so making out of 1" and more solid design is safe. 

 

I know at least 2 sets are in use in vintage racing in the UK and others have been installed on older heavier bikes with no issues reported. 

 

Lool forward to your PM

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Finally mounted mine. I also managed to use the oem brake light switch because the pressure switch wouldn't fit on my gsxr master. I just made a simple L bracket and used an M4 bolt to hook the spring onto.

 

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