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6th Gen Refresh


Willy

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I'll start a thread here to pose a few questions that will come up as I go through a used 6th Gen I bought a few weeks ago.

 

Background: I owned a 2007 RWB some years ago and sold it to buy a more "comfortable" bike. It didn't take long for me to miss the VFR and regret the sale. This summer I started looking for a used VFR and found this one nearby for a reasonable price. 

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It has just under 50K miles on it and despite the service records that came with the bike it really needed to be refreshed. I'm in the process of going through one end to the other. I've started at the hind-end and have serviced the rear hub, swingarm pivot, rebuilt rear caliper. The wiring and connectors all look pretty good. I'll run the charging system checks and expect I'll replace the stator and R/R. The cooling lines need replacement and I've just figured out that means I need to pull the throttle body off to get to the lines in the V. I have DMR components for shock and forks. I'll also go through the front break calipers, and masters. Surprisingly the rear caliper was in fine shape and maybe I'll get lucky on the front. The fluid in the clutch master looks like molasses so some fresh fluid in order.  Chain and sprockets are all new. Needs tires and I'll powder coat the wheels while I'm at it. The seat and windshield are beyond repair. And the paint "looks" ok but is pretty rough with some sort of corrosion built up on it. I'll try to polish that out and keep the original paint.

 

Here's a pic from a week ago as I was getting to the swingarm. 

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I want to preemptively say thanks to all of VFRD for help given in years past on my first VFR. I know I will have questions as I go through this one. And any suggestions along the way are much appreciated. 

 

Thanks again and I'll provide updates as I make progress - albeit slow....

 

Cheers, Ernie

 

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Boozzie - Yes, the brake lines will need to be replaced. I'm still noodling a way to delink it and upgrade to stainless. A lot of guys here gave me great advice to swap the frontend and I may still go this route. I've already purchased a new set of 6th Gen fork cartridges and will stick with the stock front end and brakes for now. But it's something I'll need to tend to shortly. 

 

Rodzon - yep. A 2014 FJR. It's an awesome touring bike. And actually pretty good at carving backroads. I've made a couple longer tours on it carrying all my camp gear etc. I like it. BUT I have to say its not as engaging to ride as the VFR which is why I've rejoined the family. A big lesson learned - Never sell a VFR.

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Cam chain tensioners while you have the tank off might be considered.  

Front fork upgrades from f4i internals to DMr cartridge kit to AK20 cartridges use the stock VFR forks (keeping ABS and LBS - good or bad) up to a full USD forkectomy; depending upon technical comfort and budget you cannot go wrong tuning the suspension for your desired riding - best return on investment I've made on mine.

Your workspace pic and list of To Do items are making me want to get out to the garage and spend some time wrenching on my old girl.  CCTs are on my list.

Cheers!

 

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That RWB looks like it lived outside.  Poor thing!  LOL!

 

I just hit 50k miles on mine and have been going through a mechanical refresh of a bunch of important parts.  I would say, replace your thermostat, water pump, stator, all at once.  That way you only drain coolant once.  Get your fuel injectors cleaned.  Mine started to run like crap at just under 50k miles and a good cleaning had the engine back to smoothness.  Gained some fuel efficiency too.

 

I also agree on upgrading your suspension using DMr components.  I sent mine to Jamie Daugherty Motorsports and he did his magic.  It transformed my bike and it's been the best $$ I've put in the bike so far.

 

Congratulations on the RWB (again).

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Heavy sigh.... the deeper I get into this bike the more I find needing done. And yes it apparently sat outside longer than revealed by the PO. My fault for not looking closer and identifying the neglect.  I think I was enticed by a low sales price and the lust of owning a VFR again. Now I know it was not a super duper deal. Still it gives an old man something to work on. 

 

Yep - I'll be pulling the injector body off to get to the coolant lines that cross through the "V". So I think that means adding the water pump, thermostat, and injectors while I'm in this deep. 

 

I have the swing arm and rear caliper fully rebuilt, lubed and back on the bike. Waiting for those rubber dampers in the rear hub then I can torque everything down and reinstall the repainted subframe and rear wiring harness etc. Going to upgrade the brake and signal lights with LED. 

 

I've now started to the teardown of the front clip. Forks out and disassembled. I'm going to have the lowers powder coated along with the wheels and foot peg assemblies. I still need to chat with the powder coat guy so maybe I'm too optimistic at this point. DMR cartridges going in. Along with DMR rear shock. For powder coat I'm thinking something close the dark gray side case color for the front fork lowers and foot peg assemblies (there's another term for those assemblies - lower set?). And for the wheels either a very dark silver or dark gold/bronze. Still not sure about what will look nice with the RWB colorscheme. Opinions welcome - I've been looking at gallery photos to get ideas from your builds. 

 

I have the upper cowl stay off and cleaning it up. It was rusted in several of the weld joints. So I've wired brushed it and primed it so far. It will get a good coat of black enamel next. Now I'm staring at the goose neck wondering if I should dive into the bearings on that assembly too. It turns smoothly - no bind or irregular feel so I think they are OK. I just hate not dealing with it while I have it down this far. 

 

 

The Cam Chain Tensioner I need to read up on. If there is a pinned thread on this please pass it along.  I have no idea what that entails yet. But as I've read that 50K miles is a lot to ask of it so its also probably on the list. 

 

And yes - Stator and R/R to be tested. I'm sure to be replaced given the mileage. 

 

My progress is slow - waiting for parts. All the little bits I need are 1-2 weeks to be delivered..... 

 

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7 hours ago, Willy said:

Heavy sigh.... the deeper I get into this bike the more I find needing done. And yes it apparently sat outside longer than revealed by the PO. My fault for not looking closer and identifying the neglect.  I think I was enticed by a low sales price and the lust of owning a VFR again. Now I know it was not a super duper deal. Still it gives an old man something to work on. 

 

I have the upper cowl stay off and cleaning it up. It was rusted in several of the weld joints. So I've wired brushed it and primed it so far. It will get a good coat of black enamel next. Now I'm staring at the goose neck wondering if I should dive into the bearings on that assembly too. It turns smoothly - no bind or irregular feel so I think they are OK. I just hate not dealing with it while I have it down this far. 

 

 

The Cam Chain Tensioner I need to read up on. If there is a pinned thread on this please pass it along.  I have no idea what that entails yet. But as I've read that 50K miles is a lot to ask of it so its also probably on the list. 

 

 

 

 

 

At the very least I would grease the head bearings, if you are this deep into a strip down why not.

 

the CCT's are dead easy, one behind each of the banks of cylinders. only two bolts hold them in and you'll need the tool to hold the plunger in  place when you remove them. I used a thin bladed screwdriver as I had the engine out when I did them.

 

 

 

looking good, lot's of elbow grease and hard work should turn it round

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Made a little progress today. I have the upper cowl stay installed and associated wiring harness back in place. I'm glad I shot a few pictures making wire routing easier. Also a new oil cooler (the old one was damaged). I have the right side radiator cleaned and back on the bike with new cooling lines and clamps. As I go, I'm opening the wiring connectors and cleaning them. Nothing indicating an overheated connections or wiring. Some of the vinyl connector shrouds are discolored from heat though so obviously some wiring has been heated at some point. Nothing alarming so far in fact in better shape than I expected given other aspects of the bike. 

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I'll leave the front end at this point until I get the front forks reassembled. I have DMR cartridges and springs to go in, but first I will have the fork lowers powder coated. Dropping those off next week - no idea what lead time to get them back. 

 

Now I'm at the point of tackling the rest of the cooling lines that cross under the throttle body. And likely also will pull the injectors and have them serviced. So I got the airbox off this afternoon and have to admit I'm a bit intimated with pulling that unit out. But its filthy and needs to come out one way or the other. 

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I'm reading the service manual step by step trying to figure out how this unit comes out and I come across the instruction to "use a LONG screwdriver" to loosen the clamps that attach the intake tubes.

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REALLY???

 

I don't have a screwdriver that long. I can get one but looking at the mechanics of this step I'm wondering if any of you have a better idea? Maybe it's easier than it looks but WOW! that is a nest of plumbing to snake a screwdriver through that to get to those screws. And getting them back on? 

 

Any suggestions? Maybe I just need to try it with the correct tool. Please forgive my fear and trepidation.....

 

Cheers!

 

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Wow, looks like you have made real project out of that one! I'd recommend doing the steering head bearings while you've got it all apart.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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I got this far and said No thanks man. You are gonna need a screwdriver long enough to reach right cylinder clamps from the left frame of the bike... Somehow.

 

I pulled a few coolant hoses and did the thermostat swap without pulling the TB's. They are a bitch and a half to get out.

 

You likely don't need steering head bearings. Pull the throttle cables off and you'll know it's just the cables a bit caught up.

 

Clean the injectors when the bike doesn't run well. The nannies here must spend more on maintenance here than their bikes are worth.

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I used to get intimidated just looking at that throttle body.  But after taking mine out, I realized it wasn't as bad as I thought.

 

Yes you need a long screw driver.  Most Honda's with a 4 banger require it to get to those little screws that hold your throttle body.  You also must disconnect the coolant hoses from the Idle Unit (some call the Wax Unit but it has no wax).  Then you must disconnect the idle cable from the frame.  Once all that is done, use a shortened 2x2 piece of wood and lever your throttle body from the left side and rear cylinder.  It will pop right out.  It may take a few tries, some wiggling, and a lot of patience but it will come off.  

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If you need a long screwdriver, Harbor Freight has some on the cheap. 22” Long screwdriver set

 

Before I went and grabbed the long screwdriver, I was using a1/4 inch drive ratchet with a few extensions and a was able to reach the farthest clamp but it was a little difficult keeping the end steady as the slight amount of play where the extensions joined would sometimes bump hoses or just make the tip just a bit offline.

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Wagzhp - yes its become a project. Thankfully I have the time and am enjoying the work. 

 

Urban - its true - my cheap purchase will be not so cheap when I'm done and some of this is not needed, but I can't resist taking care of it while I'm this far in. The steering head was in good shape - no bearing swap. It's smooth and light to turn, yet no wiggle or looseness so I have left that alone for now. 

 

Rogue, Duc - thanks for the advice. I was thinking maybe I was missing something here. I'll go get a long screwdriver and a long single 1/4 drive ratchet extension this afternoon and continue on this tomorrow. 

 

Thanks guys! Much appreciated. Ernie

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I'm a bit late to this thread, but enjoying it.  All in all, a great way to spend the winter months!  Then come spring having the satisfaction of rolling out a refreshed machine to enjoy all summer.   You won't regret having the injectors professionally serviced.  On my 6th gen that made it run much smoother and helped the low rpm throttle response. 

 

Looking forward to more updates!

 

Cheers

 

 

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I used RC Fuel Injection in Torrance, CA.  (IIRC name changed from RC Engineering).  Turnaround was fast and they included a pre / post spray pattern report.  They fit new O rings as well.   I was able to get the injectors in to a small USPS priority mail flat rate box - I think around $6.  IIRC it was $24 per injector which includes return shipping.    One issue I had was the fuel smell when shipping them.  I didn't want the USPS thinking I was sending something hazardous - but it worked out fine.   The fuel vapor goes right through a ziplock bag - so when I do this again I'll take them out well in advance and allow the fuel to evaporate as much as possible. 

 

https://www.rceng.com/Fuel-Injector-Cleaning-P43C0.aspx?UserID=103273066&SessionID=bQxsDmb4SrAAz2d5fzzY

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Thanks Cogswell. I will try RC as well. Will hopefully have them out in a couple days and let them "breathe" for a day or so before packaging them for shipment. Ernie

 

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I'll have a look at YouTube, but at the moment I'm inclined to have these done by a pro. I don't want to be back into throttle body in a year wishing I done it right the first time. Still thanks for the tip and I'll take serious look at it. 

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Guys, I'm upgrading all the turn signal and brake lights to LED bulb replacements. I know from past experience that the OEM flasher unit will not work without adding resistance to the circuit - or changing the relay to a compatible unit. I've searched here for info and not found info on a replacement relay. So I looked at the parts fiche and found TWO flasher units....

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The two pin relay on the right (sorry its out of focus) is the Denso relay. On left is a 7 pin relay? I'm assuming I can find an LED compatible relay for the Denso unit and call it good? Or do I need to replace both relays? I'm sure this has been solved before...  As always thank you!

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Urban: Injector RX - I will check them out. Thank you for the recommendation. Cheers!

 

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5a1343b27078e_twopinrelay.PNG.87f8cde1b54933cdf3172a5186e20083.PNGI just bought this....  will see if it works when its all installed. 

 

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