Member Contributer mello dude Posted June 2, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2017 I did a search but not finding anything definitive, but what torque did you use for a final seat down on the top nut (#6 in any Honda Parts fiche- at least on 5th gen) http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1998/VFR800FI+A/STEERING+STEM/parts.html on the steering stem bearing with an All Balls tapered kit. Factory says 18 ft-lbs.. way too much, and my Valk factory manual says 9 ft- lbs, but thats still too much. - I've played around with it a bit, but I thought check the VFRD brainiacs too. --- For that matter #7 lock nut too.... I know the top triple nut lists at 76 ft-lbs..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Burns Posted June 2, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2017 I though I remembered it being something like 5ft-lbs.. it was all but finger tight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted June 2, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2017 The PO of my RC51 must have followed the manual and then some; my bike mechanic REALLY had to go to town to get the nut loose today (to change out the shot steering bearings).... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted June 2, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2017 The nut above the triple does need serious torque but the bearing adjuster does need to be around finger tight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted June 3, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 3, 2017 Yup what he said. First nut finger tight rock the triple back n forth to seat the bearings then back off until you feel a very slight amount of resistance. No slack! Second nut finger tight then 90 degrees to set the lock washer. Top triple nut to factory spec. When it's all together there should be no perceptible resistance or slack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sfdownhill Posted June 3, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 3, 2017 Good thread. Having All Ballz-specific info from those who've done it is very cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted June 3, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 3, 2017 The tapered rollers are very sensitive to small changes in tension, too much is definitely a bad thing and will ruin the steering (DAMHIK). To get mine right I have left the fork assembled, loosened the top nut and then gently adjusted the bearing nut with a punch and hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zRoYz Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Don't make a simple task complicated, the best thing about tapered roller bearings is they can have more play than standard roller bearings & not overly move due to the seating tapered profile. It's due to this you should only ever hand tighten the top locking rings & only torque the triple clamp nut. What is most important is to remove top triple & re tighten lower locking rings after a few rides just in case the bearing shells you installed had some extra movement to seat correctly. Also don't spare the grease work it into those tapered rollers before install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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