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So I might have done a thing......


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A week’s worth of vinegar, a handful of loose nuts and bolts and shake shake shake. 

 

Next step is the 3-part tank cleaning/etching/sealant kit which will enable me to eBay the used tank and offset the cost of the brand new one I’m getting from partzilla.

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  • 2 weeks later...
13 hours ago, SEBSPEED said:

Core Moto is good stuff, use them for all my custom projects. Love the dished head banjos they supply. They are fast too. 

 

Yeah I figured the old rubber lines deserved a vacation. 

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Rob how difficult do you find it to install all new lines and get the system filled and bled completely of all air? Do you use a motorized vacuum?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

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On 2018-04-09 at 3:02 PM, 2thdr said:

Rob how difficult do you find it to install all new lines and get the system filled and bled completely of all air? Do you use a motorized vacuum?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

 

So far I’ve drained and flushed the RC’s brakes twice

 

once as PM and the brakes were still squidgy feeling so I then dismantled and cleaned the whole system and bled them again

 

THEN I decided to do new lines so I get to do it a 3rd time

 

im an idiot!!! Haha

 

actually  its really easy, just takes time and  care to get all the air out

 

no abs or lbs so it’s much simpler! 

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Ins'Allah.............

 

 

 

This millner has been waiting since 1764..... :goofy:

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On ‎09‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 10:02 PM, 2thdr said:

Rob how difficult do you find it to install all new lines and get the system filled and bled completely of all air? Do you use a motorized vacuum?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

 

I replaced them on my 6th Gen and I'm no spanner monkey so if I can do it, anyone can. As has been said, take your time and it's logical and doable. I use the 6th Gen bleeding guide from this site to help me.

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My VF, like the RC, doesnot have linked brakes.

So putting the new lines on was doable, even for a certified internal auditor....

 

I have Speedbleeders so did the following (on the brake and clutch) as I donot have a vacuum thingie

 

-attach drain tube

-open valve 1/8th

-pull lever and tie a rubber band around it

-only a small amount of fluid comes out, remove the Speedbleeder and put an OEM one in.

-Remove the banjo from the caliper/slave and put in a jar

-undo the banjo at the top (put a rag around the area). As you still have the lever compressed the reservoir will not drain itself.

-The line will empty itself and then you remove it. Carefull not to spill any drops...

-Fit the new line with the banjo/o rings supplied

-Attach the drain tube and put the end of the tube in a jar with (the old) fluid, open the oem valve

-now you pump the lever multiple times till the fluid level starts to drop and you keep topping up.

-once you see fresh fluid coming out, you once more compress the lever and affic with a rubber band.

-replace the OEM valve with the speedbleeder

-the reason for this is that the air in an empty line will not compress the little spring/ball inside a speedbleeder

-you now complete the process with the speedbleeders till all air is out

-leave the bike overnight with the levers compressed with a rubber band

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It Is not easy to get fluid through a dry system with the linked brakes. I have never had a shop do any work on my bike in the 18 years I've owned it that is the one i would reconsider, if it had an experienced mechanic on staff, It is a mother-f-er. Front is doable but from the secondary master up though the various hard lines valves etc. Periodically over the years and 20 bottles of fluid i would bleed and using all methods and i still there was air in the system. If i did it myself again and was leaving the linked system, would "only replace the front lines" back is pretty useless especially with air in the line you will never get out

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Really enjoying this thread, sorry about the (extreme) tank delay, was hoping to see your project out on the road soon!

 

I might have missed it, but what about the rear shock? Planning an upgrade?

 

A VFR/RC51 motivational pic:

 

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On 4/13/2018 at 3:41 AM, gig said:

It Is not easy to get fluid through a dry system with the linked brakes. I have never had a shop do any work on my bike in the 18 years I've owned it that is the one i would reconsider, if it had an experienced mechanic on staff, It is a mother-f-er. Front is doable but from the secondary master up though the various hard lines valves etc. Periodically over the years and 20 bottles of fluid i would bleed and using all methods and i still there was air in the system. If i did it myself again and was leaving the linked system, would "only replace the front lines" back is pretty useless especially with air in the line you will never get out

 

Did you try a Mity-Vac or another vacuum brake bleeding device? I did my LBS with new braided SS lines and it came out great. Patience and systematic approach and everything worked well.  Trick was to vacuum bleed the upper valve under the seat.  Brake performance was greatly improved.

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3 hours ago, Rush2112 said:

 

Did you try a Mity-Vac or another vacuum brake bleeding device? I did my LBS with new braided SS lines and it came out great. Patience and systematic approach and everything worked well.  Brake performance was greatly improved.

Reverse bled, might vac, hung all part high and in different positions, nothing seemed to work completely. The bleed thread that shows hanging the secondary MC helped the most.

I’m loving the delink, but talk about hard to bleed, the brembo rear set up in notoriously difficult, but found a thread in Ducati forum that is supposed to be the bible on bleeding them

 http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15500    

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I used to call mine The Time Machine. It seemed to get me places faster than physics should allow! Ironically it topped out 1 mph slower than my VFR, but it sure got there a whole lot faster!

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