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RC51 SP1 SP2 Parts Interchangeability


JZH

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I think I can do this...

 

"This" being: swap fork internals from SP2 to SP1.  We all know SP2 forks are "shorter" than SP1 forks, but my online research strongly suggests that this is simply a function of the SP2's monstrously long OEM top-out spring, rather than of any of the SP2's non-springy parts actually being shorter.  The US RC51 workshop manual doesn't even bother illustrating the SP2's internals, they're so close... (FWIW, I've found that the 954 workshop manual does show the maintenance procedures applied to the same type of fork parts that the SP2 has.)

 

(I have a set of SP2 forks that have been fettled by a well-known suspension tuner over here, so I was planning on using them as-is on my FP, but the "clamping zones" of the outer tubes of these forks are slightly different than those of SP1 outer tubes--not a lot different, but just enough to be incompatible with the lower triples I'm using (VFR1200*) and the height at which I want to mount the forks.

* Note: VFR1200 lower triple clamps have 55mm ID openings; in order to use SP1/SP2/929/954 forks (54mm OD) I will have to fit 0.5mm shims, but this is easily resolved.)

 

That said, there are some parts differences between the SP1 and SP2 fork internals, but I don't know if they would prevent swappage.  I currently have a pair of newly re-annodised SP1 outer tubes, good condition SP1 lowers and new bushings/seals ready to go.  I'm thinking that all I will need to do is fit the new bushings and seals to the cleaned SP1 uppers and lowers, and drop in the already assembled SP2 cartridges/springs/fork caps, oil and Robert's my mother's brother, right?

 

Cheers,

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12 hours ago, Zazen said:

I haven't acquired a wheel yet, but my plan is begin with an SP2 wheel.

 

-Kirk

 

In case it helps you decide, any FireBlade front from 2000 - 2007 can be used. In 2008 the wheel became narrower (like 600s) so that can fit with spacers, but you might need to space discs as well. Since they all use 25mm axles, you need to either swap to 22mm ID bearings, or as I have done (better IMO) make some top hat spacers to suit the seals and fit inside the bearings. They are then effectively captive and don't fall out when trying to fit the wheel as the normal ones always do.

 

Any RVT wheel can of course be used, but the 5 spoke (and lighter) SP-2 wheels are much harder to come by and hence expensive. But they do match the 800 rear rather well. Way better than the Honda original in fact.

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