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What can you tell me about my VF500?


Tyy

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Don't use parafin then. Use a cheap oil or whatever you have to hand and spin it on a battery. While you are doing that you can use a compression tester to check the compression.

 

There are posts on here and elsewhere where a 500C engine has been fitted to a 500F. Physically it fits but there are a few minor electrical differences. You will need to search.

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Look into VF1000RS thread on VF400 resto mod, he put a magna 400 motor into a vf400 frame, so it can be done. As Jeremy62 said, may just be electrical(timing points etc).
Don't see any response about the colour of the oil? It is normally water that makes it Brown, but time and storage may also do that! Cheap oil change may suffice, but change it once you figure motor is ok.

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Ps, differences in motors might be gearing, jetting, cams and so on. You probably need to find a manual(chlymer).
Eg, vf750s (shaft drive) motor turns in reverse, has six gears as opposed to 750f, five gears.
You're going to have to research!

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THe 500C is chain drive but yes, I think the internal gearing is slightly different. The difference are small and I definitely know its been done before without too much drama. If the engine is good otherwise, then I see no reason to not make it fit.

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Could be an C engine alright.....

 

vf500c.gif

(found this on the web)

 

 

 

But if she runs and fits, who cares!!! :beer:

 

 

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Look through ServiceHonda and see what differences there are between part numbers. Last I checked it was only minor differences and it will all change over.

 

The oil looks milky, like a head gasket is blown. Which is harder to find than a good engine. I mean, it was going to the junk yard for a reason right? You could at least pillage it for parts, or figure out which engine you want to fix. But my money is on a blown gasket.

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Carnage!

1Iq1zQ8.jpg

That came out of the exhaust, along with a fair amount of oil.

I am hoping on dropping the engine today. I also got my hands on a compression tester for the new engine. I was wondering if anyone knows whether I will have electrical issues with the Magna engine. If anyone has a shopping list for replacement engine parts, it would be greatly appreciated. There are a lot of ebay ads and what not for engine gaskets, but I cant find standalone rear cylinder bank head gaskets. I am going to inquire about the valve spring kit that was mentioned earlier in this thread. While I have the engine out, would it be worth sending it to a machine shop? What would I ask them to do exactly? Ive read about hot tanking, and resurfacing the heads, but I dont know if that is actually worth it.

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Fliwnbx.jpg

Got the engine out. I compression tested the Magna engine with a drill. I got a reading of 60 and 30 psi on the front cylinders, and a reading of 60 and 65psi on the rear cylinders. I think the front gasket is toast. I found one on Ebay and ordered it. I also noticed the oil that has been sitting in a bottle for awhile has seperated. There is water on the bottom of the bottle.

 

bp9uuwc.jpg

Spark plug from the cylinder that went on my 56k engine

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Ouch, dropped valve, well you have spare parts now. Generally if you pull a head off check for warping, skimming is routine.

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I just finished doing a soapy water test along my headgasket. There were no sources of bubbles. I was running an air compressor right into the sparkplug hole, with a hollowed out spark plug adapter I made. It was running at 80psi. Any more pressure and the engine was turning itself past TDC. Is it possible that the gasket only broke into a cavity inside the engine? It seemed like there is no breach to the outside. As a reminder, I got 60, 30, 60, 70psi with a drill attached to the alternator. I dont know what to think because of the oil colour. As far as the water goes, it may have been already in the bottle. When I drained the oil there were no bubbles or foam. I could try to hot wire the starter, if anybody could tell me how to do that.

I am really stumped...

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<iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/video.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fty.strick%2Fvideos%2F10209794846817976%2F&show_text=0&width=268" width="268" height="476" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allowFullScreen="true"></iframe>

HTML code has not been working here on the forum, but my friend took a short video.

I have gone from no engine to a running bike in the last week.

fDaFSsW.jpg

 

Firstly, I put the engine in because I want to test it before I take the head off. I think the compression issues might be because the cylinder had lost its rag corking the intake. Rust had started on top of the valves and I think that might be a contributor.

Now onto what I've done, I repainted some of the frame while I had the engine out. There were actually a couple major differences in mounting the Magna engine, I took a lot of pictures and I think I'll be making a how to thread. Once I got the engine wired up and connected I was able to compression test it with the starter. I got ~120 psi on 3 of the cylinders(142 is the spec). The problematic one was at 90psi. I had to redo a lot of gaskets because they were turning to dust. Got to go back and do the alternator gasket again because its leaking. I did a valve clearance before I put the engine in. Re-gaped the plugs and painted a few parts I could get to while it was out. 

Took a whole day of trouble shooting to get the engine to start. Pouring gas down the spark plug holes and squirting quick start eventually got the engine to cough to life. It also gun shotted a backfire too because of all the vapor in the exhaust. I am buttoning down the engine fuel mixtures and stuff right now, but I think I'll be taking it out for round two at getting it on the road soon. Heart surgery successful

LwBlaxP.jpg

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Looking for suggestions on what to do with an engine problem I am having. At wide open throttle the bike burbles and loses power like it is leaned out. I have been reading from different sources and I think it is an issue with the fuel petcock. I have cleaned the petcock out with carb cleaner and compressed air in the past. I dissembled it too. From what I've read the engine has less vacuum at WOT and this can result in fuel starvation. The only other clue is with my vacuum hose configuration. The way the lines were hooked up when I got it is how it is now. There are two outlets on the petcock one above the diaphragm and one below. It is hooked onto the one above. I presume the lower one is supposed to be a vent and not actually hooked up to something? Please advise.

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Here on mine.

Note that if I have the tap in the OFF position, she will still run like a minx....

Was this way when I bought her, checked the vacuum diaphram, is ok so I reckon it is "inside. But I cannot be bothered to take her apart just because of this...

 

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P8250665.thumb.JPG.34ba54e20171ede9ec206d411be2b771.JPG

 

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Just a thought, I used to have an Old Suzuki that would lean out at high RPM, the trick was to switch the vacuum petcock from MAIN to PRIME. this bypasses the vacuum and allowed free flow of the fuel. sorted.

 

In the end I converted the fuel tap to a good old fashioned on/off petcock. I had to remember to switch the fuel on and off when I used the bike but it cured it's hiccups at sustained high speed.

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12 hours ago, Dutchy said:

Here on mine.

 

 

 

P8250665.thumb.JPG.34ba54e20171ede9ec206d411be2b771.JPG

 

 

That Y pipe is not the vacuum line is it? Mine doesnt have one of those. The petcock doesnt have a prime position, but I think I know how to do what youre saying. I could remove the spring and diaphragm and just cork the vacuum hose = always dumping fuel. Only thing I am worried about is whether the petcock can still turn off the fuel because mine does what you said Dutchy. When its running I can turn it to off and it still draws fuel. I am hoping that wont be the case when the fuel pump is off.

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that Y pipie is the fuel line running from the fuel petcock to the carbs; my/the 86 didnot have a fuel pump

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  • 4 weeks later...

13 months later...

bmpWMnD.jpg?1

 

After 2 more visits to the motoshop and some negotiation, the bike passed inspection. This is the 3rd day out riding. I am on the coast of lake Ontario, near Canada's Chernobyl. It was a particularly misty day near the water; we've had some weird cold spikes from the Hurricanes. This is near the evacuated area of Port Hope. There used to be a uranium enrichment and radium plant which employed most of the people in Port Hope. They leveled the facility when they discovered it was contaminating the soil after 40 years or so. The direct vicinity was deemed uninhabitable, and many homes were boarded up. Although it is believed that nearly all of Porthope may have been at risk of health complications from the low-level radiation. Today the area is being cleaned up by burying contaminated topsoil at a location further away from town, but there is still an uninhabited area. It is branded as a "Protected Nature Area", but really its just to protect people from staying in the radiation too long. If you look closely you can see lake Ontario above the trees, its a little confusing because there are no reference points in the mist.

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  • 1 month later...

Bike has been running without any new problems, but I've got a question regarding some performance. At WOT and high speeds the engine seems to be starving for fuel. This should not be so because I upgraded the main jets quite a bit. I am going to entertain the possibility that it is the fuel pump or relay. It could also be a vacuum leak. I need new intake boots. If you've had this issue, and fixed it, please let me know what I should try.

 

Summoning the A-Team @Dutchy@jeremyr62@YoshiHNS@Forbes@Captain 80s

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If the fuel pump works at all it is unlikely to be this. Make sure your fuel line is not kinked anywhere. At wide open throttle as far as I know it is the main jets that are the most important element of the carbs. You might want to do a plug chop to see what they look like. This is not an easy thing to do at the side of the road IME, so I usually just pull the plugs back at home to have a look if they are lean or rich.

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Assuming the 84 has the same.....  there's a vacuum tube running from the petcock to the rear left carb.

As Keny found out very late at night, crossing "The Bridge" between Denmark and Sweden, this can get porous, causing the "rubber valve" inside the fuel petcock to play silly buggers....

 

 

Edit:  I posted about this earleir....   oooops

 

 

  

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On 11/2/2017 at 11:02 AM, Dutchy said:

Assuming the 84 has the same.....  there's a vacuum tube running from the petcock to the rear left carb.

 

 

  

 

I have not seen any vacuum outlet on the carbs when I had them disassembled. I will consult my manual to be sure. I also neglected to mention, I have removed the spring the petcock. It now runs only on the elasticity of the rubber gasket. I tried removing the gasket and plunger entirely, but there are simply too many nooks and crannys to fill with a DIY paper gasket. What this means is there should not be any petcock issues remaining. As far as the carbs go... I am running #117.5 main jets with my 4-1 straight pipe, low exit supertrapp, and K&N air filter. Could intake/exhaust leaks be causing such a drastic power issue? They are present, but I don't know any wiser

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Regarding the petcock if you haven't figured it out.  The very back spigot is where a vacuum should attach.  The vacuum does not actually come from the carb, it will come from a spigot on the head right at the intake.  One of the plugs where you attach vacuum gauges will (should) have a fitting for a vacuum tube. 

tankvalve7.jpg

 

That dark phillips head is a vacuum port.  One of them should have a spigot to attach a hose that goes to the very back of the petcock.  The outlet off of the center of the petcock is just a weep hole to let you know when your diaphram has failed.  Like the weep hole on the water pump.

 

Here's how you correctly disable vacuum operation.

http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/howto/tankvalve/tankvalve.html

 

Regarding the jetting, can you please post a pic of the exhaust with the supertrapp.  I don't remember seeing a good pic in your thread.

 

 

 

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And

 

" Could intake/exhaust leaks be causing such a drastic power issue? They are present, but I don't know any wiser "

 

So you are trying to track down jetting issues knowing you have intake and exhaust leaks?  You are working from the wrong end.

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