Jump to content

Wiring Up A Power Socket.


Nelix

Recommended Posts

  • Member Contributer

Thanks. 

I've been told there is a also a plug in connector for the alarm, looking at a meta and the side is saying older bikes have a 5 pin connector, newer bikes a 4 pin connector re pic below.

Can only find the one you have shown and this red one, neither look right though.

 

 

 

 

 

Honda_alarm_plug_types.jpg

IMG_0250.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 5/6/2016 at 7:12 PM, Jussi said:

Here it is, on the left side of the battery.

 

 

VFR800F_Acc_socket.jpg

 

 

Incredibly helpful, thank you! Just used the yellow and black as the switched live for a set of auxiliary lights

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I installed the Honda factory accessory 12V plug in the specified location under the pillion seat / rear cowl.  I think traced a mini-USB cable from a USB car charger to the front of the tank to power my cell phone when riding.  I use my mobile for navigation using the Waze app.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 4/22/2018 at 8:38 AM, Kwee69 said:

Why not used the harness from power socket connector 12V ?

 

Limited current capacity.


Fine for electronic widgets.  For electric clothing, not so much.  Depends on your priorities.

 

At the risk of causing thread drift, I wonder why the alarm pinout changed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Rectaltronics said:

 

Limited current capacity.


Fine for electronic widgets.  For electric clothing, not so much.  Depends on your priorities.

 

At the risk of causing thread drift, I wonder why the alarm pinout changed.

The power socket is rated at 36W(3A 12V). I don't know any devices that overcharge that limit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 5/12/2018 at 11:01 AM, Kwee69 said:

The power socket is rated at 36W(3A 12V). I don't know any devices that overcharge that limit.

 

Yep!  And that's exactly why I wrote: "Fine for electronic widgets.  For electric clothing, not so much."

 

For some examples, with 36 Watts of capacity on tap you could charge three iPads, or you could charge four iPhones while operating a GPS receiver.

 

But for electric clothing, you could power one pair of gloves.  Or while powering your electric socks you could charge an iPad and a maybe couple of phones.  But forget about powering a vest, jacket liner or pants liner.  Ain't gonna happen.  As for electronic devices that draw more than 36 Watts, I'd say also forget about using it to power most laptops, drone battery chargers, etc.

 

When I had the Powerlet installed in my steering stem and connected straight to the battery I could use it to power pretty much anything I wanted.  I could also use it as a handy connection point for a trickle charger.

 

What's best depends entirely upon your individual priorities.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I just ordered a connector from amazon for my stock accessory plug.  I get more parts than I need, but it was cheap and I have extras if I mess something up.  The only down side is I have to wait for it to ship from China.

 

I'm only going to use the black/yellow wire as the switched power trigger for my PDM60, which is what I power all my accessories with.

 

The only thing I need to figure out now is the high-beam trigger (to modulate controller for aux lights).  Does anyone have any ideas for this (I'll start a new thread if necessary)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 29 May 2018 at 10:11 AM, headshrink said:

 

The only thing I need to figure out now is the high-beam trigger (to modulate controller for aux lights).  Does anyone have any ideas for this (I'll start a new thread if necessary)?

 

Hi Headshrink.

Provided you only want a +12v trigger (very low current draw) you could simply tap off the Headlight Relay using the Bu/Bl coloured wire at the relay. If you require a ground trigger you could again use the Bu/Bl wire to switch a small relay with its contacts one side to Ground, the other to be wired to your PDM60 as a Ground trigger, see bottom drawing.

Hope that all makes sense - not too familiar with a PDM60.

 

For Info - Just be aware, Honda have done a VERY strange thing with the wiring of the Headlight Relay. The Hi/Lo Beam switch carries ALL the Relay current to the LED Driver, ie The switch is in series with the Relay Contacts as well as Energising the Relay, have never seen a relay wired this way and defeats the purpose of having a Relay!!!!!

 

The Headlight Relay is located under your seat, R/H Side, most rearward of the three relays.

 

First drawing is how the bike is wired? Have checked main wiring diagram and actually mapped it out on the bike!!!!!!

Second - is how I reckon it should be wired.

Third - Ground trigger for your application with PDM60.

Cheers.

VFR_Headlights001.thumb.jpg.16ea412fa2944cc62560c1f082cb0969.jpgVFR_Headlights003.thumb.jpg.ab8999ad84b000cb806d41bd73a798d6.jpg

image.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Strange wiri

19 hours ago, Grum said:

For Info - Just be aware, Honda have done a VERY strange thing with the wiring of the Headlight Relay. The Hi/Lo Beam switch carries ALL the Relay current to the LED Driver, ie The switch is in series with the Relay Contacts as well as Energising the Relay, have never seen a relay wired this way and defeats the purpose of having a Relay!!!!

 

Strange wiring indeed, but given that there are two fused supplies to the driver unit and the headlamp assembly indicated in the schematic, I'm hesitant to jump to conclusions.  Has anyone measured the current going through the relay -switched circuit branch into the driver unit?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 30 May 2018 at 9:18 AM, Rectaltronics said:

 

Strange wiring indeed, but given that there are two fused supplies to the driver unit and the headlamp assembly indicated in the schematic, I'm hesitant to jump to conclusions.  Has anyone measured the current going through the relay -switched circuit branch into the driver unit?

 

Looking at the wire gauge and the current capability of the Hi Beam switch, (haven't gone to the trouble of a current check) I'm really only guessing its just a logic state, given as you've mentioned, the left and right 10a fused power supplies for the headlight assembly would supply the necessary power. God only knows why Honda have done it this way! Guess I know what relay to grab should any of the other 5 Relays cause a problem! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 30 May 2018 at 9:18 AM, Rectaltronics said:

Has anyone measured the current going through the relay -switched circuit branch into the driver unit?

 

Curiosity got the better of me. Removed the Headlight Relay and placed my amp meter across the Bu and the Bu/Bl wires = Relay contacts. Current Draw when Hi Beam selected was 10 milliamps, 0.010 amps! And that's probably the current drawn by the Hi Beam Indicator LED in the Instrument Panel.

As suspected, it appears the Hi Beam Select is no more than a logic input to the LED Driver. Why the Relay and the way is done is very strange?

Cheers.

Grum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
14 hours ago, Grum said:

 

Curiosity got the better of me. Removed the Headlight Relay and placed my amp meter across the Bu and the Bu/Bl wires = Relay contacts. Current Draw when Hi Beam selected was 10 milliamps, 0.010 amps! And that's probably the current drawn by the Hi Beam Indicator LED in the Instrument Panel.

As suspected, it appears the Hi Beam Select is no more than a logic input to the LED Driver. Why the Relay and the way is done is very strange?

Cheers.

Grum.

 

Thanks for the due diligence!

 

For a moment I thought maybe the relay was left in place for some alternative use, maybe even for our convenience, like for folks who wanted to drive auxiliary lights with their high-beam and passing switches.  But the relay is just switching current through the [low-current] switch!  And according to you, low-current wiring into the 5P connector, too.

 

Then for a moment I considered that maybe there would be some sort of surprise in the full schematic.  But, nope.

 

It isn't isolating the driver module in any way.

 

Really, I can't believe the six sigma folks didn't catch this.  It is quite bizarre.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/28/2018 at 8:56 PM, Grum said:

 

Hi Headshrink.

Provided you only want a +12v trigger (very low current draw) you could simply tap off the Headlight Relay using the Bu/Bl coloured wire at the relay. If you require a ground trigger you could again use the Bu/Bl wire to switch a small relay with its contacts one side to Ground, the other to be wired to your PDM60 as a Ground trigger, see bottom drawing.

Hope that all makes sense - not too familiar with a PDM60.

 

For Info - Just be aware, Honda have done a VERY strange thing with the wiring of the Headlight Relay. The Hi/Lo Beam switch carries ALL the Relay current to the LED Driver, ie The switch is in series with the Relay Contacts as well as Energising the Relay, have never seen a relay wired this way and defeats the purpose of having a Relay!!!!!

 

The Headlight Relay is located under your seat, R/H Side, most rearward of the three relays.

 

First drawing is how the bike is wired? Have checked main wiring diagram and actually mapped it out on the bike!!!!!!

Second - is how I reckon it should be wired.

Third - Ground trigger for your application with PDM60.

Cheers.

VFR_Headlights001.thumb.jpg.16ea412fa2944cc62560c1f082cb0969.jpgVFR_Headlights003.thumb.jpg.ab8999ad84b000cb806d41bd73a798d6.jpg

image.png

 

Thanks for all this, it will be very helpful!  I'm glad I won't need to run a trigger wire all the way up to the nose too.

I just stripped the FARKLES from my old bike today, so maybe this weekend I'll be able to start installing on the VFR. 

 

(not sure why I didn't get a notification for this... I better check my settings).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 4/16/2016 at 1:04 PM, fink said:

Your best bet for a supplier would be Jim Davies at eastern beaver. Com they will be sumitomo hm series connectors.

As for customer service I can say +1 to Eastern Beaver.  Always easy to deal with.  I see he has a plug and play harness (with relay if desired) for accessories.  Options for types of connections, as well as options for switched power I believe.  Not sure if that would work for you guys or if cutting up your harness and bodging together something with a lot of trial and error is more your taste.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
6 hours ago, VARIABLE9 said:

As for customer service I can say +1 to Eastern Beaver.  Always easy to deal with.  I see he has a plug and play harness (with relay if desired) for accessories.  Options for types of connections, as well as options for switched power I believe.  Not sure if that would work for you guys or if cutting up your harness and bodging together something with a lot of trial and error is more your taste.

 

I have one of his fuse boxes excellent bit of kit indeed. It’s hiding below the autocom unit on my bike.

I also used to make up a harness similar to his 3 fuse one.  

8902D45C-0A5D-4222-91D7-EB36B82F0818.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/19/2018 at 2:43 PM, fink said:

 

I have one of his fuse boxes excellent bit of kit indeed. It’s hiding below the autocom unit on my bike.

I also used to make up a harness similar to his 3 fuse one.  

8902D45C-0A5D-4222-91D7-EB36B82F0818.jpeg

 

Whoa... that's a bad-ass looking comm unit!  Do you have a write-up on that anywhere?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/19/2018 at 7:54 AM, VARIABLE9 said:

As for customer service I can say +1 to Eastern Beaver.  Always easy to deal with.  I see he has a plug and play harness (with relay if desired) for accessories.  Options for types of connections, as well as options for switched power I believe.  Not sure if that would work for you guys or if cutting up your harness and bodging together something with a lot of trial and error is more your taste.

I bought his PC-8 distribution box for my CBR500r, but replaced it once I discovered the PM60 by Rowe Electronics.... it's so fancy, smaller, and much more versatile.

 

Thanks for reminding me about him though; I used cycleterminal.com for my last purchase.  Other than shipping location for the Beaver they're both good, and I like to support these small sole-props.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
2 hours ago, headshrink said:

I bought his PC-8 distribution box for my CBR500r, but replaced it once I discovered the PM60 by Rowe Electronics.... it's so fancy, smaller, and much more versatile.

 

Thanks for reminding me about him though; I used cycleterminal.com for my last purchase.  Other than shipping location for the Beaver they're both good, and I like to support these small sole-props.

Yeah either one of those is overkill for my needs, I’m trying to determine build it or buy it for a three fuse set up. There’s also BlueSea if you’re the build it type.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
14 hours ago, headshrink said:

 

Whoa... that's a bad-ass looking comm unit!  Do you have a write-up on that anywhere?

 

 

This is what I have installed.

Autocom spa unit.

kenwood 3201 with separate Ariel,  ptt button which can also be used on vox. 

Ipod for the Mrs so she can listen to her own tunes

zumo 590 set up Bluetooth for phone and tunes

my own iPod (when tunes on Sat Nav not used)

 

hooked into the fusebox

USB  charger

cig socket for air pump

optimate cable

scottoiler e system. 

Roadhawk ride + camera system. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.